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Prep should be the same as for paint, all rust, grease and dirt must be gone. Any remaining rust can spread beneath the finish, with paint you can at least remove it with relative ease, should the need ever arise. Apply RTV and you'll have captive rust, even worse than leaving it aloneThere are rust-converting primers (such as Corroless), but they cannot be used with PC; they'll burn below the curing temp. Bodywork (filling dents, deep scratches and rust pits) is almost impossible with powdercoat and going over it will look awful. Decent bodywork, including careful block sanding and thorough prep are essential to getting good finished results. Application counts, too, doubly with candy paint. Keep in mind that how it looks when you get it back is as good as it's going to get...it's all downhill from there and you're going to have to live with it. One universal is that what looks go to you now, may not look as good in the not-so-distant future. Even journeyman painters aren't immune from this. I've yet to see a powdercoated CT70 frame that didn't have an orange peel texture.I have seen a number of larger pieces including bike tanks and CT70 frames that came out looking like they were painted with latex and a roller. Take a good, close look at the work coming out of the shop you plan on using and don't expect anything better than the worst piece you see there. Perhaps your chose shop turns out amazing work and new improvements happen all the time.
As for media blasting, most commercial blasters are geared to removing rust from salt bins, dumpsters and garbage trucks. That takes super heavy-duty balsting equipment that can cover large areas very quickly. 1/4" plate steel doesn't warp or weaken very quickly from metal erosion. A CT70 frame is thin sheetmetal, easily warped and even more easily thinned. The best media are soda, fine steel grit and glass bead, used with small (<30cfm) nozzle and no more than 90psi. Soda is pretty well goof proof, since it's the softest, but it's expensive becuase it cannot be recycled. Where 20lbs of glass or steel might get the job done, you'd need closer to 200lbs of soda.
These things are awful. The bushings butt flush up against each other, so there is no way to access the back and press them out. I tried all sorts of stuff, but finally succeeded in drilling out the thick steel centers. Then drilled out the rubber with a larger bit. And finally, drilled out the outer casing.
, though it's hard to tell if I'm just being paranoid as I don't have the new one's here yet. I never want to do this again.....
Originally Posted by Pony Express
