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Thread: rebuild ct70 front forks

  1. #1
    jimaruta is offline 50cc
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    rebuild ct70 front forks

    Hello.
    Can you let me know how to remove the lower legs.
    I want to replace the springs, seals, rubbers, ect.
    I have the top plates off with bolts removed.
    Any info will help.
    Thanks, Jim

  2. #2
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    Hey i found a front fork diagram for a ct70 i picked a k4 model because it is a median model but check it out here it the web location:

    http://images.powersportsnetwork.com...ONT%20FORK.gif

    If this does not help type in you make year and model and it would take you to a list of all diagrams for the bike any year any assembly check it out it should help...by the way you do not have to buy anything this is just so you can see the part you are looking for broken down

    http://mrcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp

  3. #3
    alexficco is offline 50cc
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    where can you get springs?

  4. #4
    stinvinn is offline 50cc
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    to get them appart there is a bolt in the leg from the bottom that is visible after removeing the axle .If you get luky they will loosen if the iside turns whenn trying to loosen them use an air impact wrench and they will spin right out

  5. #5
    racerx's Avatar
    racerx is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by stinvinn View Post
    to get them appart there is a bolt in the leg from the bottom that is visible after removeing the axle .If you get luky they will loosen if the iside turns whenn trying to loosen them use an air impact wrench and they will spin right out
    These are drain plugs. K1s have phillips heads and require an impact driver. An air-powered impact gun will strip phillips heads faster than you can think "oh s***t!!!!"Removing them has nothing to do with fork leg disassembly for cleaning & seal replacement. That can only be done from the top, by removing the C-clips & prying out the seals. The drain plugs allow fluid replacement without removing the fork legs. More times than not, these will leak after R&R; getting them properly resealed can be a nightmare Do yourself a big favor. Leave the drain plugs in place and clean the fork internals once you have the upper leg removed from the lower - using cleaning solvent & compressed air. Just don't forget to pre-oil the internals before reassembly.

    K1 & later hydraulic forks are held in place with pinch bolts. It's surface rust that tends to lock them in place, even after the bolts have been removed. The solution is to force a large screwdriver/small chisel into the expansion slot, then they'll drop right out.

  6. #6
    steampick's Avatar
    steampick is online now 120cc
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    "...removing the C-clips & prying out the seal"

    The seal does not have to be pryed out as there is a tip in the manual that says to give the fork tube several quick, short jerks and the seal will pop right out. Works every time.

  7. #7
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    Gyrhead is offline 70cc
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    Agree

    Quote Originally Posted by steampick View Post
    "...removing the C-clips & prying out the seal"

    The seal does not have to be pryed out as there is a tip in the manual that says to give the fork tube several quick, short jerks and the seal will pop right out. Works every time.
    Agreed 100% - it's even easier if you run the seal area of the fork under hot tap water for a minute or two - give the lower tube a couple of quick tugs and it'll come apart. It may not come apart easily, but it WILL - so keep trying. Just remember to remove the clips first!

    I find it's easier if you remove the drain plugs first, thereby eliminating any vacuum created when you try to pull the fork apart.

    It can make a mess - be careful you don't splash fork oil everywhere!

  8. #8
    racerx's Avatar
    racerx is offline Super Moderator
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    I find it's easier if you remove the drain plugs first, thereby eliminating any vacuum created when you try to pull the fork apart.

    It can make a mess - be careful you don't splash fork oil everywhere!
    Those lower drain plugs are not shown in the Honda parts manual. Doubtful that it was an error of omission. Removing the upper fork bolts, a.k.a. fill caps leaves the system open, no vacuum possible. Inverting the fork legs, with the caps removed allows 90% of the oil to be drained/pumped out before attempting further disassembly...with virtually no mess if the end is placed inside a plastic milk jug.

    As to removing the seals themselves, a small seal removal pick works like a charm without leaving a garage-sized blast radius of old fork oil. To each his own. I prefer to enjoy Jackson Pollock - inspired works at the museum of modern art, not recreate them them in the shop.

  9. #9
    steampick's Avatar
    steampick is online now 120cc
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    If you invert and drain the fork as you suggested, there really isn't enough oil in the forks to worry about spray when popping the seals by pulling.

  10. #10
    Long Crapper is offline 110cc
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexficco View Post
    where can you get springs?
    http://dratv.com/suspension.html

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