1971 CT70 Blue Redo

wanrep

wanrep

Active Member
Hello all,
I'm starting a project for a customer of mine to redo his CT70KO.
Someone repainted it at some point so the first thing to go is the paint.
I took the frame to my paint guy and we pulled the side badge off to reveal the original color.
After cleaning the glue off, he said to take it to Car Quest to have them shoot it with their color analyzer, or whatever they call it, to see if they can match it.

Has anyone had success with this route to match the original Candy Sapphire Blue?
Anyone discover a paint code that works?

Thanks.
 

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wanrep

wanrep

Active Member
wanrep said:
Hello all,
I'm starting a project for a customer of mine to redo his CT70KO.
Someone repainted it at some point so the first thing to go is the paint.
I took the frame to my paint guy and we pulled the side badge off to reveal the original color.
After cleaning the glue off, he said to take it to Car Quest to have them shoot it with their color analyzer, or whatever they call it, to see if they can match it.

Has anyone had success with this route to match the original Candy Sapphire Blue?
Anyone discover a paint code that works?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

After doing a lot of searching, I can answer my last 2 questions....NO.

OK...Has anyone used the VMR paint kit in Sapphire Blue?
If so, what did you think of it?
 
wanrep

wanrep

Active Member
I did a test paint with Duplicolor last night.
After bead blasting, I used 2 coats of primer.
3 coats of wheel coating HWP101.
2 coats of gloss wheel clearcoat HWP103.

I was looking for more of a matte finish, maybe because the paint is 47 years old, but I think this will work.
 

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69ST

Well-Known Member
The 101 wheel paint is closer to the contemporary version of cloud silver, than the 1970s version. It's a nicer-looking silver, imho, but it's not going to satisfy the purists. Duplicolor silver caliper paint is a closer match...and the best substitute, in the product line, for the late, lamented "Steel Wheels". That said, the wheel clear can be used over either and it's quite durable, especially for rattlecan paint.
 
wanrep

wanrep

Active Member
I finally got the parts back from the painter last weekend.
Everything else is ready to put back together.
I was hoping I'd finish it this weekend but I need about a dozen little parts that I'd forgot about.
They won't be here 'til next week.

IMG_0802.JPG
 
wanrep

wanrep

Active Member
Finished her up this morning. Turned out pretty good if I do say so myself.
It wasn't a total resto but it wasn't supposed to be. I had $2500 to work with.
I was able to use the original fenders, exhaust, engine cradle and the (wrong) seat.
Most of the other parts I was able to bead/soda blast and repaint or clean up.
That said, I still had $1000 in new parts.
Paint ran $375.
I had 60 hours in it so I made less than $20 an hour.
I knew going in that it wasn't going to be a big money maker.
These kind of projects never are but I really enjoy doing them.

Looking for a good candidate for another resto for myself.
First, I have a 1976 XR75 to restore.
 

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cjpayne

cjpayne

Well-Known Member
Looks really good from here.
Btw, if you got those rubber gators from CHP, they will start cracking at the top after a year or so. That happened on my friends 71K0 I worked on. Made me angry to see that on a bike thats always garaged and covered.
 
wanrep

wanrep

Active Member
Thanks and yes, the gators came from CHP as did most of the parts.
Some of the parts I questioned the quality of, after getting them.
I had to take a dremel and grind out the inside of the headlight shell to get the headlight to fit.
The aftermarket chain adjusters wouldn't fit. Hardly no offset to them. They were out of the Honda ones.
I hope the Chinese chrome holds up. We'll see.
All in all, CHP wasn't bad. I'll try Dr. ATV next time just to compare.
I've found over the years, it's best to use oem if you can but sometimes you don't have a choice.
 
wanrep

wanrep

Active Member
allenp42 said:
I figure my labor rate at best $0/hour.
Click to expand...

$0/hour? You can come work for me any time. LOL
I know what you mean. When you're doing stuff for yourself, you don't put a price on your time.
That's the beauty of this forum. If a guy wants to work on his bike, he can get all the answers right here and save a ton of money.
Some guys just don't have the desire to work on their own stuff. Those guys keep me in business.
Like I said, I didn't mind one bit making $20 an hour instead of the regular shop rate of $50 an hour.
I love these little bikes and I enjoyed every minute working on it. Can't say that about the majority of
bikes and ATV's that go through here. After 45 years, I think I'm getting burned out fixing other peoples
crap they've neglected and abused.
Restoring one of these CT70's takes me back to why I got into this line of work.
 
cjpayne

cjpayne

Well-Known Member
Yeah, they are pretty simple to work on, but sometimes diagnosing a mysterious problem, they can really throw you for a loop.lol
 
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