I'll let you borrow it, you just pay for shipping. Haha
Yes, you have to use it with care.I imagine that's a top-quality gasket scraper and will last damn near forever. That said, keep in mind that carbide is way harder than steel, let alone aluminum, so it should be used with care.
A lot better.Does it work better than a single edge razor blade?
The true test for any gasket scraper is a oem (green) Honda cylinder base gasket.
Takes me longer to scrape the gasket than it does to replace the top end. (almost)
Yes I was lapping and using lapping compound. So if I get the seats cut I take it I need new valves? I'm also not sure about the rocker arms, not sure what a new one looks like compared to mine?You're lapping the valves? Are you using valve lapping compound?
Most likely your head needs to have the seats cut...proper rebuild. Money well spent too.
It's a blessing, not a curse. Consider the age, mileage and unknown history of the machine. How hard was it run? Did it sit, one valve open, for 35 years? "Tuliped" intake valves are pretty common with these. I suspect that the intakes were made from a softer alloy, back in the day. Exhaust valve wear is surprisingly uncommon, as is heavy valve seat wear...on either side. The only way to get proper sealing, that will last for any length of time, is to cut the valve seats...to the valves. That's not possible with a worn, or pitted, valve.Yes I was lapping and using lapping compound. So if I get the seats cut I take it I need new valves? I'm also not sure about the rocker arms, not sure what a new one looks like compared to mine?
Here’s the rockers.It's a blessing, not a curse. Consider the age, mileage and unknown history of the machine. How hard was it run? Did it sit, one valve open, for 35 years? "Tuliped" intake valves are pretty common with these. I suspect that the intakes were made from a softer alloy, back in the day. Exhaust valve wear is surprisingly uncommon, as is heavy valve seat wear...on either side. The only way to get proper sealing, that will last for any length of time, is to cut the valve seats...to the valves. That's not possible with a worn, or pitted, valve.
Lapping is just the final step of a valve job. There's some disagreement as to whether lapping is needed, or even desirable. FWIW, I'm old-school enough to believe that lapping should be done...as per the factory shop manual(!).
As for rocker arms, post some good detail pix. They can wear. Usually, the worst result is more valve train clatter than there has to be.
So if I get the seats cut then all I should have to replace are the valves or can I use the old valves?Doesn't look bad. Those oiling grooves were machined. If the came looks good, you should be fine. I would want to reinstall them on the same sides where they were. And, I'd suggest replacing the adjusting studs; they've likely developed wear patterns that "match" the old valves. New valves + new rocker studs and you're more likely to get a quieter valvetrain, from the get-go; the mating surfaces can break-in to each other.