Dry-fit the head...IOW, install the cam & cam drive, bolt the assembly in place using the old head gasket (or no head gasket) then crank the engine over, slowly, by hand via the flywheel or clutch. If there's piston-to-valve contact, you'll feel it...and stop before anything is damaged. If you really want to know what's going on inside the combustion chamber, a little modeling clay, on the piston, will leave witness marks that will let you see how close the valves get to the piston.
I don't know if the cam profile is the same as the Dratv race cam you mentioned. I suspect it's not. However, you could swap-in the race cam with the convenience of having the needle bearing already in the head. You will need the "HD" valve springs...they're really not much stiffer than stock, but the coil spacing is wider...to prevent coil bind with the increased lift.
Take a look inside the intake port. If it's blackened as Pat pointed out (he's usually right), this head needs a valve job.