Oil pump 69 z50 k1

kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
Building a engine, then having to pull it back apart, for one reason or another, is not new to me. I've had to do it MANY times. I'm certainly not bragging about it...just sayin...it happens.

If you can say for certain that you put everything together correctly...with good parts...there should be no need to pull it apart.

I was under the impression that you never had the stator plate off of the engine?? Under the stator plate is where you HAVE to go to check for worn timing chain parts.
 
kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
If you got sealant into the tiny oil port on the engine case...it will harden up and block the oil from ever leaving the engines lower end.
 
Marcus

Marcus

Member
I'm positive everything is done correctly I used all OEM honda parts..new timing chain piston rings shift forks clutch fibers thers more but yea..the only thing I'm not 100 percent sure on is the damn oil pump shaft meeting the oil pump ear.
 
kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
Sealant squeeze out can easily block the oil feed ports. Whether from the case, clutch cover, base or head gaskets. It can be pushed INTO the engine...dislodge...and travel.

IMG_20210503_153653409.jpg IMG_20210503_153706048.jpg IMG_20210503_153743451.jpg
IMG_20210503_153653409.jpg
 
Marcus

Marcus

Member
Man still no oil in the top end..do you recommend taking the whole thing back apart to look for sealant particles..or try taking off the stator first to see about the oil pump?
 
kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
Guess I'm really not sure. I think the easiest/best place to start would be to pull the clutch cover and have a look. Maybe you'll find a blockage right there, cure it, and be done. You'll also be able to confirm that oil path is clear thru the clutch cover into the crankshaft...under that clutch cover. And maybe blow air thru the oil port and up into the head...confirming that it's...mostly clear.

Pull the clutch cover and see what you can find. You can open the oil pump right there too...for a look.
 
Marcus

Marcus

Member
Ok..I think I put sealent by where the base gasket goes there's that little area you used a pick to point to i think i covered that with sealent
 
JHminitrails

JHminitrails

Well-Known Member
These motors are not difficult to pull apart. You've spent the time and money on parts rebuilding it, why risk doing more damage trying to half ass fix a potentially huge mistake. S#!t happens, we've all been there at some point. I've had to disassemble my fair share of far more complex and labour intensive engines in my 18 years as a motorcycle tech! It sucks....but rarely shortcuts pay off. Do it right and double check your work. Like the old saying, "why is there no time to do it right, but there always seems to be time to do it twice"! You don't want to seize your new motor because of a simple problem that was easily corrected.
 
Marcus

Marcus

Member
JHminitrails said:
These motors are not difficult to pull apart. You've spent the time and money on parts rebuilding it, why risk doing more damage trying to half ass fix a potentially huge mistake. S#!t happens, we've all been there at some point. I've had to disassemble my fair share of far more complex and labour intensive engines in my 18 years as a motorcycle tech! It sucks....but rarely shortcuts pay off. Do it right and double check your work. Like the old saying, "why is there no time to do it right, but there always seems to be time to do it twice"! You don't want to seize your new motor because of a simple problem that was easily corrected.
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Good advice man..I'll double check everything then..thanks
 
JHminitrails

JHminitrails

Well-Known Member
OLD CT said:
No sealant on anything! I never had leaks, not using it.. A small dab of Lock Tight goes on the shift drum star bolt and on the other side bolt, under the rubber plug.
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Could not agree more! No need for sealant when a gasket is present and the mating surfaces are smooth,clean and not gouged up.I like to say silicone is for bathtubs and (•)(•)!
 
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