Rattling, teardown and surprise

He y'all,
Preformed a tune up. New plug, static timing, valve adjustment and points cleaned up.
Then I noticed a rattle in the lower part of the case? Also noticed the clutch was slipping a bit. Tried adjusting the clutch with not much improvement.
So I pulled the right lower side of the case. Then cleaned the oil screen which was 80% blocked. Not actually knowing where the oil slinger was located even after somewhat extensive on line research.
So I pulled the two screw plate off of the clutch body. Was very suprised to see the nut in the center of the clutch was turning with the screw driver I was using to clean it out with.

(Tried uploading a picture but I see that's not happening.)

I would think that the washer behind it with the tabs should have the ears bent into the nut? Dose anyone know the torque that it applied to that nut?

With all the crap I am cleaning out of the slinger and the screen I am wounding if I should pull the oil pump cover and check its condition?

Dose anyone know of a way I can check the condition of the clutch plates without taking the clutch apart and dose anyone make a Heavy Duty set replacement clutch plates? I only want to do this once.

Well I hope that tightening the nut will stop the rattle. I will try to upload pictures later after 3 attempts I am done trying for the night. Grrr.

I will most likely be making a socket for that nut on the main shaft if I can't find one for a decent price. Will post updates on tool making for the main nut if anyone is interested.

Thanks for your time and remember the great culling will continue until no one is left.

The nut torque is 30ftlbs +-2
It's a standard 16mm nut with indents for that locking washer.., what are you making a special tool for?

The nut because it resembles a Dana front axle nut. It's round no corners just the cut outs that the tabs go in.
Unless I am seeing it wrong. Which is a good possibility.
If it has worked for you that's good enough for me thanks for your post and your advice.

Oh Ok THAT nut Yup, buy the special tool. and slap new disks in it, they are cheap.

Sounds good thanks for your help.

Clutch nut tools go for $8.75 + tax and free shipping. Not expensive at all...

One would think if that nut is loose, someone was in there messing with the clutch and used a screwdriver to ''poorly tighten'' it. Perhaps they changed the discs already? Never saw one loosen up by itself.

Clutch nut tool: http://dratv.com/clutnuttool4.html
Clutch holder tool: https://www.ebay.com/itm/333789832044

Chances are if the oil pump had a problem your engine would be shot. You could pull the cover off the stator/alternator on the left side, lean the bike a bit to the right, run the engine... if you see oil splashing out onto the timing chain its pumping oil.

Vesrah parts seem to typically be of a bit better quality but whatever plates you put in there you prob won't need to do the job twice unless you put a whole heck of a lot of rough miles on that thing

joel1234567 said:

Clutch nut tool: http://dratv.com/clutnuttool4.html
Clutch holder tool: https://www.ebay.com/itm/333789832044

Chances are if the oil pump had a problem your engine would be shot. You could pull the cover off the stator/alternator on the left side, lean the bike a bit to the right, run the engine... if you see oil splashing out onto the timing chain its pumping oil.

Vesrah parts seem to typically be of a bit better quality but whatever plates you put in there you prob won't need to do the job twice unless you put a whole heck of a lot of rough miles on that thing

Click to expand...

Oh and that clutch holder tool is also made by the same guy that you replied to in the "Reassembling a CT90 Clutch Pack" post

That's a very good point. I am sure someone has been in there the ears on the washer behind the nut had been bent but weren't when I discovered how loose the nut was. Makes me wonder if the clutch was taken a part if the plates where sandwiched in proper order.
The clutch hub turns is both directions. Not sure if that is a indicator of the condition of the friction material condition or not?
I have this old ct for a restoration project over the winter months. So I am not going to replace the cover seals yet. I plan on driving it for what's left of the summer months.
Thanks for you input and time.

joel1234567 said:

Oh and that clutch holder tool is also made by the same guy that you replied to in the "Reassembling a CT90 Clutch Pack" post

Click to expand...

I will be ordering that tonight. Thanks for the links. The more I read the more I think that the rattle may be the timing chain? We shall see.
Thanks for the links and advice.

I am sorry I think one of my replies went to the wrong post. Thanks to you all. All very helpful information. It's nice of you all to help out a fellow Honda owner

The clutch shouldn't turn in both directions.

TEST YOUR CLUTCH REBUILD,, BEFORE YOU PUT IT BACK ON !!!!! (dratv.com)

lukelaw1 said:

The clutch shouldn't turn in both directions.

TEST YOUR CLUTCH REBUILD,, BEFORE YOU PUT IT BACK ON !!!!! (dratv.com)

Click to expand...

I saw that too lukelaw. It really doesn't spin in either direction "freely" it turns in either direction. I should rebuild it since I am in there already.
Wondering if there is a heavy Duty option for replacement clutch plates? I am close to 200lbs and my girl is 120lbs probably with the two of us we will probably be exceeding the weight limit with us alone. Add camping gear another 50lbs 370lbs.
So if I can find a heavy Duty option it would probably be worth it in the long run.

OLD CT said:

Clutch nut tools go for $8.75 + tax and free shipping. Not expensive at all...

One would think if that nut is loose, someone was in there messing with the clutch and used a screwdriver to ''poorly tighten'' it. Perhaps they changed the discs already? Never saw one loosen up by itself.

Click to expand...

That is a great price for the nut driver!! I was thinking $30 + for one. I can make one for less then $30 but not for less then $10. Thank you for you advice and time.

Just a up date ordered the nut socket, OEM clutch plates, gaskets and brake adjustment wheels that go on the lever bodies on the handle bars for fine tuning.
Would like to take this time to let you all know how much I appreciate all the input from each of you.

Thanks again!!

Well got the new clutch disks, gaskets and clutch nut tool today. Rebuild the clutch and torqued the clutch nut down to 33lbs bent a tab into the nut pocket. Put it all back together and wow!! It grips really well.
Still has the clanking noise and it won't seem to go into neutral. I think I need to adjust the clutch some more and lower the idle. Will try again tomorrow after work.
I noticed it wouldn't change hi to low range without grinding so I didn't force it. Instead I shut the engine off switched it from neutral on the sub transmission to high and restarted the engine did the same process for low. A problem for another day.
I am getting mixed information on the timing chain adjustment for a 1969 CT90K1. Not sure if it is adjustable or not. With the skid plate and foot pegs removed I see what might be the bolt for the adjustment left side on the bottom facing the rear. If anyone knows is a k1 69 is adjustable I will attempt it. I downloaded the shop manual but it covers several years and the information is conflicting whether it is or isn't adjustable. Any input Would be greatly appreciated.

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/h...th-no-year/ct90k1-a/cam-chain-chain-tensioner

Looks like its adjustable.

Tripod said:

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/h...th-no-year/ct90k1-a/cam-chain-chain-tensioner

Looks like its adjustable.

Click to expand...

It dose doesn't it. I slowly pulled the cap barely off and black oil started to come out. I only loosed the cap. I just put new oil in so tomorrow one the way home I will pick up some more and drain the oil and fiddle with the timing chain adjustment.
I did take it for a spin after I oiled and adjusted the drive chain. Very very responsive to the throttle. On my way back down the hill I remember that I had pulled the foot pegs off. I will have to adjust the rear brake lever and the front brake. Fun ride though. The power to weight ratio is outstanding!!!
Thanks for your post tripod.

Went by to the auto parts store on the way home and grabbed some oil. Got home and started lil'Red and drained the oil.
Pulled the timing chain adjustment bolt out and the only thing that came out was a 2" spring. So it looks like lil'Red's engine doesn't have much of a adjustable chain tensioner option.
I am tempted to put a heavier spring in there but I probably won't.
Do any of you guys or gals know if I can put the newer style adjustable mechanism in place of the early non adjustable mechanism?
Would like to have the option.

Hey all,
i have decided to replace the timing chain, idler wheel and tensioner. when i cleaned the oil screen i noticed black plastic like chips covering approx. 80% of the screen. so i am contemplating removing the engine/transmission to do this or to put the whole bike back up on the stand. so far i have found all but the rubber tip that makes contact with the tensioner ring. will keep you guys and gals posted.