1969 CT70 spark/timing

So, I've got a 1969 CT 70 and a 1974 CT 90. They've been sitting in a shed " for decades" the guy said. LOL On the 90 the tank was dry and really clean. So, I cleaned the carb, fresh fuel and a new battery and air filter, runs great. Changed the oil too. So, the 70, the last reg on the plate is 1984! Both bikes are in really good shape, I might add. The 70 had the flywheel missing. The stator, points, cond, all that is there. I got a new used flywheel, and cleaned up the ignition parts, put a new battery in it but I don't get any spark. The horn works with the key off and only if I touch the ignition switch to the bike ( I have it loose to check the wire connections). I get power to the tail/brake light socket. Not sure about the headlight yet. These 6v/ points/condenser systems are a bit foreign to me. I'm not sure where to look next. I did check the plug wire connection. Maybe test the coil next?
Thanks, T2

Update. I replaced the stator assembly with a rebuild kit,, it included new points and condenser. No spark still. So,at then end of my rope, I went thru the entire wiring harness checking for continuity, broken wires, loose connections, etc. What I did find was on the 4 prong plug off of the battery was a black "jumper" wire. It lined up with the blue wire out the other side. That didn't look right so I switched it. I then cleaned up the flywheel really good, double checked the points, wires and the points gap carefully and boom it's got spark!!! Wooh! However I still can't get it to start. It has a new plug, compression is 120-130psi, clean carb and fresh fuel. I'm not sure where to go next. IS there a timing issue/ adjustment on these? I'm not very familiar with these points/ 6v systems.

yes there is ignition timing on these bikes. you want the points to just start to open at the "F" mark on the flywheel to the notch mark in the case. There might be a good youtube video of points adjustment. some guys set the gap between the point at .016 with a feeler gauge with the flywheel "T" mark at the case notch. I personally set close by eye, get bike running then use an automotive timing light to fine tune.

Ok thanks. I will check into that. Probably later today. I'll report back.

lukelaw1 said:

yes there is ignition timing on these bikes. you want the points to just start to open at the "F" mark on the flywheel to the notch mark in the case. There might be a good youtube video of points adjustment. some guys set the gap between the point at .016 with a feeler gauge with the flywheel "T" mark at the case notch. I personally set close by eye, get bike running then use an automotive timing light to fine tune.

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Woohoo! She runs! I finally got the little bike today. I carefully set the points gap to .016 and it fired right up. It's blowing a little smoke, but it went away. I think that was from me squirting a bit of oil into the cylinder when I checked the compression. Thanks for help!!!!

lukelaw1 said:

yes there is ignition timing on these bikes. you want the points to just start to open at the "F" mark on the flywheel to the notch mark in the case. There might be a good youtube video of points adjustment. some guys set the gap between the point at .016 with a feeler gauge with the flywheel "T" mark at the case notch. I personally set close by eye, get bike running then use an automotive timing light to fine tune.

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The carb is leaking from one or both of these. Any tricks to fixing them?

tap them back into the bowl housing

That K29B KeiHin carby looks pretty tired .

The earlier versions of A and B K29'd had brass fittings that can be tapped deeper into the pot metal body without fear .

I'm not sure what you should do with this, there are myriad Chinese copies, some suck and some don't, apparently it's a crap shoot every time .

I bought the $49.00 one from some seller in Florida, it comes in a really fancy box and worked *perfectly* right out of the box .

I hear 50/50 good or horror stories about the $19.95 ones .

I put some red loctite on em and tapped em back in. The little Honda is running! But, the front brake cable is locked up. Any tricks to freeing it up w/o buying a new one?

lukelaw1 said:

tap them back into the bowl housing

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just buy a new cable

If you have any penatrant you can hang the cable up vertically by one ball end and dribble the liquid in very gently and slowly, the strands of wire will begin to absorb the liquid and gravity will work it down and throughout the cable .

Unless you have financial reasons saving old stuck cables is a waste of time and effort because the crime and rust deep inside the cable will wnsure it never works properly and wears out sooner than later .

To test any old cable, loop it about a 6 inch diameter and see if it slides .

If not, it's usually either kinked or rusty deep inside and is trash .

Cables are not terribly expen$ive but when added to the oil, tires and tubes, gaskets, points, spark plugs chain and sprockets I do understand why you'd rather save an old original one .

I had to long long ago .

I tried the plastic bag/trans fluid trick for about 30 hrs. Didn't work. But, the thing runs good and the owner picked it up and was very happy with it. Thanks for the help. IDK how many of these old Hondas that I'll be working on. I worked on 3 for one guy.....We'll see.

-Nate said:

If you have any penatrant you can hang the cable up vertically by one ball end and dribble the liquid in very gently and slowly, the strands of wire will begin to absorb the liquid and gravity will work it down and throughout the cable .

Unless you have financial reasons saving old stuck cables is a waste of time and effort because the crime and rust deep inside the cable will wnsure it never works properly and wears out sooner than later .

To test any old cable, loop it about a 6 inch diameter and see if it slides .

If not, it's usually either kinked or rusty deep inside and is trash .

Cables are not terribly expen$ive but when added to the oil, tires and tubes, gaskets, points, spark plugs chain and sprockets I do understand why you'd rather save an old original one .

I had to long long ago .

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I probably won't be around much here. I'm not that popular just due to my political views. Pretty sad. But, that's where we're at these days. Cheers and Merry Christmas!!

Good to hear the Customer was happy .

Once those cables get rusty inside or kinked no matter how slightly , they're usually kaputi .

Don't go away .