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  • hello bob, my uncle lives in flint mich. how far away are from flint? i might be going up to visit him some time this spring . i was just wondering what the cost is to rebuild my k1 automatic engine . i have some mad money set aside for a rebuild.. if you can give me your phone number, we can talk on the phone , thanks bob.. tom 0762
    Hi Bob.
    I noticed my neutral and high-beam lights are not on with the engine running.
    Where should I start?
    I apologize if this belongs in a forum, but very new here. I don't even know how to start a forum!
    Bob, some how I screwed up my avator etc... I cant see any pic of me or other people? What did I screw up?

    Hey Bob!

    Great to see you again at Mid-O! Hope you had a good trip home. That heat was unreal. Hope its better next year.
    Take care, Mike
    The amount of idle time varies. I've run into this same thing, losing posts, too,
    I'll pass the information along and see what can be done. On behalf of the LH staff, all apologies for the inconvenience.

    From the forum administrator:
    "First and foremost, I would recommend selecting "keep me logged in" when signing into the site. If it still times out, then you may have some bad cookies and I would suggest clearing the cookies on your computer."

    The time you spend typing & editing a post is considered "inactivity" and the clock starts ticking. You should have ~15 minutes, but glitches do occur. The vbulletin platform is good, not perfect. Copying your un-posted message can prevent loss, should your session time-out. If you do this, then the worst you'll have to deal with is simply pasting the message once you log-in.
    Hey racerx:

    Is there anyway I can get a little more idle time on this forum without being auto logged out? Twice I have started a new thread, only to be interrupted with work. (Imagine the audacity). I come back to the computer, continue typing, hit "post message" and find out I am not logged in. No problem to log back in, but I loose everything. Very frusterating, even when I'm just looking around.

    Not sure if u have Moderation for the For sale or wanted area, I dont have it, but my thing is i think we should clean up what has been sold and what is wanted that the person bought or got... seeing alot of old posts that are going way back.. just a thought
    well i got the the bolts on nice and tight, got back on it , got alittle scared going , every 5 mins in would look down to see if there still on, but man it wakes you up when that happens... thanks again
    Hi RacerX,

    We here at Vintage Restorations would like your knowledgeable input on our spray can metallic finish. I know there have been many posts in the past regarding the quality and final results a rattle can will produce. We feel our products are by far the best on the market and will meet all expectation for those who choose not or lack the knowledge to tackle the difficult candy finish application. We would be glad to send you a free 4" x 6" painted sample of our finished product using the exact same spray can paint sold through our company painted in our warehouse. These paints are not candies, but Duponts expensive ChomoBased 2 stage metallic paint.

    If you are interested in the quality finished product our spray can paints can produce, we simply need a shipping address and will get shipped right away.

    I thank you for your time,

    Best Regards,
    Rick Hanebrink
    Vintage Restorations
    Racerx, I'm assuming by some of the posts I've read (none about this) that you are well versed in the 70 engines. I bought a basket (KO 70) case and am putting it back together. The large end of the kickshaft sits in the left case cutout and the manual shows it sitting in there with no steel shim or protection. This makes little sense, can you verify that this is the case? Unless the shaft floats via spring pressure then the aluminum will be shredded by the helical gears teeth at the end of the shaft. Thanks in advance for any help,
    I need a couple of things. First, I messed my "Honda Nice" custom fabbed rear brake pedal up that you modded for me and need another. Second, I want a little more power out of the Nice motor, what about the minimum upgade to the 127cc kit. Little (very little modification) for a little more power. How much for both of these? Thanks
    My comments are regarding the little dust up thread that appeared on the site last week regarding an engine being done correctly or not. For whatever it's worth (and I have chosen to stay off the board for a reason) I do know that Skidreau (Kirk) bought the engine from Mark Pearson. Kirk and I had had a conversation regarding his desires before, during and after the engine was complete. I just had two of my engines done by Mark. He pretty much said he just wanted a basic driver engine. I also was aware that he was not real happy with what he got. It was for his Dad's bike and his Dad had paid for it and I think this is where some of the anger came from.

    Not trying to start anything and I have nothing against Mark, nor do I have anything to gain other than kind of trying to shed some facts on the deal-if it is even a deal?

    If you have questions, or not, I can be contacted at: jim@mbi1954.com

    Take care and hope all is well with you.
    The lower end fits tightly enough on the lower fork leg, so even though K1s lack the shallow retaining grooves found on K2-`79s, that's not a problem. What will trip-up your plans are the upper chrome trim rings. K2-`79s have an extra "nose" section on the bottom side and these provide the upper mounts for the fork boots. Without them, there's nothing to hold the upper end of the rubber. Occasionally, you can find these used. The only other options would be having either new trim rings, or possibly extensions (they'd be held in place by the fork springs) machined from billet aluminum.
    HI racerx,
    I saw a post of yours about putting rubber fork boots on a K1 front end. I would like to do the same. I like the look and my metal covers are thrashed. Could you tell me if the boots need a clamp or zip tie on the bottom to keep it in place. Also what parts of the fork do i leave on the top, I plan on taking the headlight mounts off and using a aftermarket mount instead. thanks for the help.
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