Sore kicker foot

OLD CT

OLD CT

Well-Known Member
I run about 850ml Bri. You just have to keep an eye on the crankcase vent hose to make sure you don't push any out on the long higher speed runs.That's an indication or red flag that it's too full.But you won't be doing that for some time with a fresh engine.When your finally broken in is the time to go back to your notes and remember to watch out for that.

Blue sheen means it's a running lean.I wouldn't run a 110 with a stock pipe.Way too restrictive.
I would keep an eye on the plug.And run it at night to watch for possible lean header glow.An open or free flow pipe will need even more jetting.
 
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cyberrust

Member
:13:Yes OlDCT I have been very careful ,keeping my eye on oil temp.whever I have started it.On 2nd cool down cycle with 1 oil change.Maybe 20 min run time so far.New exhaust should be here today.Still waiting on oil cooler parts.Now building mount for cooler.Jetting will be redone and fine tuned then.Kill switch for rear brake light keeps the big heads away?
 
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69ST

Well-Known Member
Given time, long, high-speed, runs will discolor chrome or stainless, regardless. The black VHT on my headpipe turns ashy-white and has to be reapplied annually. I've long-since dialed-in the jetting and, with one tank less than 19000 miles on this motor it should be just about broken-in:21:

This is one of those rare instances where the short method is best, just find the rich limit and jet-down 1-2 steps from there. That usually means nothing more than a one-groove change in jet needle height and you're good-to-go...air:fuel ratio near 12.7:1 at WOT, low-to-mid 13s at part-throttle/high-speed cruise.
 
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cyberrust

Member
:32:Hey Racer, How do you really know air fuel mix,aka 12.7 - 13 % .You have a gauge for that? Installed new pipe tonight.Used to have a girlfriend with about that mix.12 shots to 1 beer.She crapped out fast,now I call her fouled plug and gapped out!
 
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69ST

Well-Known Member
You guessed correctly, A:F meter w/wideband O2 sensor.

As for the women you've been picking-up in Hoboken...you're on your own. :bolt:
 
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cyberrust

Member
:41:She's purrin like a kitten and fast as greased lighting.Thank You all for your input and happy 4th of July to all of course, keeping our freedom in mind and riding one of these machines makes you truely feel that way.I have included some pics for your enjoyment.
 

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cyberrust

Member
Well after a nice long weekend she went on the fritz again.Pulled plug completely white insulator still to lean and overheated although positive throttle response at all ranges.Then a shut down at 80c on oil.Hot as hell here toiday 95F and 60% humidty.
Clutch starting to cook? Hmmm!Have to check that out stocker has new plates and discs.
 
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69ST

Well-Known Member
Lean won't always result in high oil temp at the dipstick, depending on circumstances. Clutch slippage I'd expect to manifest on cold startup, not result in a toasted top end. You did add HD clutch springs, new plates & discs, right?
 
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cyberrust

Member
Yes Racer I did replace plates and discs.I could not find heavy duty springs though,Tried CHP springs but they did not fit H model manual clutch.Sent them back.Opened up clutch yesterday and discs were worn almost smooth already in about 15 mi. of easy mellow cruising.I do not beleive that clutch is up to the increased HP with me on it 200lbs.Checked plug insulator is pure white,but she ran good in all throttle ranges.Guess I will have to bump up main jet and go a little richer though.What do you think?
 
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cyberrust

Member
She keeps eating up flywheel keys? Put in new one again and torque to 20ftlbs.Seems to sit a little to low in stroker crank.Do they make taller keys?
Brian
 
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69ST

Well-Known Member
I subscribe to the "standard wisdom" that says the key is there to index the flywheel correctly, not mechanically prevent it from rotating on the crank. There should be a tight enough interference fit to do the job. First thing I'd try is a thicker washer between the retaining nut & the flywheel...or perhaps a second washer...to drive the tapered surfaces together a little deeper, to the point where there is enough friction. Hopefully, another few thousands of an inch will do the trick. If the flywheel then makes contact with the stator, it's time for another flywheel.
 
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cyberrust

Member
:33:Thanks Racer that makes common sense.But upon futher review of my new Takegawa clutch.I'am still trying to figure out a few things.I have looked at these instructions straight on,sideways and upside down and still do not know what the hell they are talking about.I guess I will have to visit Japanese restaurant with fresh tuna to get answers.Never stop learning here its like I,m in Egypt?
 

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cyberrust

Member
Ok she's up and running again.Clutch is smooth.Thanks OLD ct.But I can not get out of 2nd gear.I do not live in Hoboken so 2nd is is it at 25MPH winding 8 grand ?Idle fine, timing set perfect with strobe.Tear it apart again? she shifted fine before?This is crazy?Pass me another Miller Lite or Saki?
 
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cyberrust

Member
Man is she fast all problems fixed.I can't get enough.17-35 gear ratio is perfect.Purrs like a kitten if only she could talk a little?But she's to busy runnin smooth.LOL.Will post update pic soon.
 
darrel gunderson

darrel gunderson

Active Member
cyberrust said:
Man is she fast all problems fixed.I can't get enough.17-35 gear ratio is perfect.Purrs like a kitten if only she could talk a little?But she's to busy runnin smooth.LOL.Will post update pic soon.
Click to expand...

LOL..... Glad you hear you finally got it all figured out. I will bet you learned a lot from all this trouble shooting!!
 
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