69’ Silver Tag Resto - No spark

Carnold

Member
Bought this 69’ Silver tag on Craigslist a few weeks back as a “restoration project”. All of the expensive stuff was done (chrome paint and etc)... Since then I’ve spent close to a $1K in parts and a lot of time cleaning/painting everything as I put it back together. This is my first Ct70, I usually restore and work on older bikes. But it’s been a fun little project...
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I’ve got almost everything put back together, but i haven’t been able to get spark... I’m not sure if the magneto needs to be taken apart (it’s seems pretty original). Or if I just have a faulty ground. The only thing I can think of when it comes to the coil is that it wouldnt fit through the mounting plate in the bike. So, I had to getto rig it through only one hole. But, one side has a strong ground/hold. Could that be the problem or is it probably something else?
-Connor
 

OLD CT

Well-Known Member
Without a battery harness in the bike, you will not get a spark. It has a black wire looped in it, to complete the spark. That far away under the seat pic you posted appears not to have a battery/harness in it.
 

Carnold

Member
Without a battery harness in the bike, you will not get a spark. It has a black wire looped in it, to complete the spark. That far away under the seat pic you posted appears not to have a battery/harness in it.

I installed the harness and connected everything a few days ago. I’ll take new pics tomorrow. Thank you!
-Connor
 

OLD CT

Well-Known Member
Conner, the bike looks great! Just one thing I did notice. The ''shock lowers'' are backwards.
The cutout side goes ''in'', so you do not see them.
 

Carnold

Member
Took the Mag apart and found out the points were bad... So I replaced them and set them. Put in a new spark plug and it worked right away...
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Runs great just needs some transmission work... Anyone know why the trans is hard to shift sometimes, but easy other times?
-Connor
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
First items are, fortunately, easy...clutch preload adjustment ans shift technique. FYI, once the clutch is centrifugally engaged, it is a fully manual clutch - without a hand lever. The manual release action is combined with the shifter assembly. Thus, gear changes must be modulated the same as if you had a hand lever to control clutch action... coordinating rpm, throttle opening, and clutch engagement to execute smooth shifts. Clutch operation, via foot action, isn't exactly intuitive for mot of us; it takes a little practice to become second-nature. Once mastered, these semi-automatics can be shifted as seamlessly as any full manual.

Start the engine, shit into first gear, then old the shifter at the limit of its travel, then give it some throttle. The engine should freewheel. If the bike wants to take-off, from a dead stop, the clutch is not disengaging, a result of insufficient preload...assuming that you've assembled it correctly. In that case, time to adjust the preload. OTOH, if the engine does freewheel as it should, the next step will be learning/refining your shift technique. The key is momentarily holding the shifter at its limit as you match power application, same as you would with a hand clutch. Gonna end things here, for now, until you try these suggestions and post feedback.
 

OLD CT

Well-Known Member
Hi Conner, the bare strand of copper wire off the coil going to the condenser that you soldered on, is ''touching'' the condenser. It is grounding itself out. :( No metal is allowed to touch the edges or side of it...;)
 

Carnold

Member
First items are, fortunately, easy...clutch preload adjustment ans shift technique. FYI, once the clutch is centrifugally engaged, it is a fully manual clutch - without a hand lever. The manual release action is combined with the shifter assembly. Thus, gear changes must be modulated the same as if you had a hand lever to control clutch action... coordinating rpm, throttle opening, and clutch engagement to execute smooth shifts. Clutch operation, via foot action, isn't exactly intuitive for mot of us; it takes a little practice to become second-nature. Once mastered, these semi-automatics can be shifted as seamlessly as any full manual.

Start the engine, shit into first gear, then old the shifter at the limit of its travel, then give it some throttle. The engine should freewheel. If the bike wants to take-off, from a dead stop, the clutch is not disengaging, a result of insufficient preload...assuming that you've assembled it correctly. In that case, time to adjust the preload. OTOH, if the engine does freewheel as it should, the next step will be learning/refining your shift technique. The key is momentarily holding the shifter at its limit as you match power application, same as you would with a hand clutch. Gonna end things here, for now, until you try these suggestions and post feedback.

Wow, thank you for your help! I’ll try starting it and seeing if it freewheels once it stops raining outside... Thanks!
-Connor
 

Carnold

Member
Hi Conner, the bare strand of copper wire off the coil going to the condenser that you soldered on, is ''touching'' the condenser. It is grounding itself out. :( No metal is allowed to touch the edges or side of it...;)

Wow, nice eye! I’ll fix that ASAP. What exactly does the condenser do - charge the battery?
-Connor
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
Think of a condenser as a battery on amphetamines. It charges rapidly, storing more electrical energy than the alternator can produce on a sustained basis, then completely discharges within milliseconds as the points open. Imagine filling a 5-gallon bucket, from a faucet, then suddenly dumping it...a huge amount of water (and kinetic energy) is released. That's the best analogy I could come up with on short notice.:whistle:

The condenser is part of the ignition circuit and has nothing to do with the lighting circuit...which uses its own, discrete/dedicated, coil.
 
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