Let's get this CT70 K0 back together!
- Thread starter kawahonda
- Start date
OLD CT
Well-Known Member
Wonder what happened to the flange? They can't just fall off. Something is wrong with the end of the pipe that holds it. If you are creative and cheap you could make one. 
If you want one now rather than waiting, I would buy the one on ebay that the guy want's 9.99 or best offer + 3.22 shipping. Offer 10.00 shipped.
It doesn't get better than that price wise...
If you want one now rather than waiting, I would buy the one on ebay that the guy want's 9.99 or best offer + 3.22 shipping. Offer 10.00 shipped.It doesn't get better than that price wise...
airblazer
Active Member
Are you familiar/associated with Mike’s Minitrails in Meridian? Just curious since you are so close.
airblazer
Active Member
kawahonda
Active Member
Cool. We have a huge bike show here every year (it's actually not far away from his place) and I've yet to see him. It makes me think he doesn't have a super strong marketing presence. Nice website and nice work though! Looks like he works out of his home near Star, ID. My friend just moved out there, so I should tell him about it. Showing up to a residence unannounced is a bit weird, although I've had some Cuda/Challenger guys do to me last year and it was pretty damn cool.
There hasn't been any CT70s in the bike show for the past couple years.
kawahonda
Active Member
I'm working on the headlight control wires. I'm wanting to put on a new silver sheath. There is no way in hell that this sheath is going on with the bullet connectors on. The fit is too tight.
How lenient is the factory wire length for these wires? If I lose a 3/8"-1/2" by pulling or snipping the connectors, am I doomed?
Yes, I do have a full setup for vintage connections to make this look like a stock crimped connection.
How lenient is the factory wire length for these wires? If I lose a 3/8"-1/2" by pulling or snipping the connectors, am I doomed?
Yes, I do have a full setup for vintage connections to make this look like a stock crimped connection.
That's a pretty repair, mechanically speaking.
What'd they charge, if you don't mind me asking?
If you're talking about the dimmer switch pigtail, it should more than enough length. That said, it's not necessary to just cut all three leads. I've successfully pulled them through replacement sheathing; it was a MoFo. I didn't try forcing them all through in a single pass. The ends were staggered. I was able to get 2 of them through without much of a fight. It's that 3rd that throws a wrench into the monkeyworks. You'll need something to fish them through. If you can remove one of the vinyl collars, you'll gain some much-needed clearance. I'd choose the ground lead, no worries about shorting out, ever, under any circumstance.
OTOH, if you'd rather remove the bullet connectors, they're just crimped. Thus, you can uncrimp them, instead of cutting them off, and lose no lead length. FWIW, I always solder connections.
What'd they charge, if you don't mind me asking?If you're talking about the dimmer switch pigtail, it should more than enough length. That said, it's not necessary to just cut all three leads. I've successfully pulled them through replacement sheathing; it was a MoFo. I didn't try forcing them all through in a single pass. The ends were staggered. I was able to get 2 of them through without much of a fight. It's that 3rd that throws a wrench into the monkeyworks. You'll need something to fish them through. If you can remove one of the vinyl collars, you'll gain some much-needed clearance. I'd choose the ground lead, no worries about shorting out, ever, under any circumstance.
OTOH, if you'd rather remove the bullet connectors, they're just crimped. Thus, you can uncrimp them, instead of cutting them off, and lose no lead length. FWIW, I always solder connections.
kawahonda
Active Member
Thanks.
The machine shop fixed this bar and they also removed a stuck screw from an exhaust shield on my exhaust pipe. They charged me $84 for the whole job. I'm thinking if I just brought them the bar it would probably be at least $60. It was a bit more pricey than what I was expecting, but I still came out ahead vs buying re-pro bars at $120.
These bullet connectors do not have the crimps exposed. It's just the wire going right into the bullet...maybe somehow the bullet itself is crimped. I'll see if I can "pull" them off with force. If not, I'll just snip it since it sounds like if I lost a 1/2", I'll be more than fine. Even with the bullets snipped, it's not going to be easy...even with a staggered approach (which I do use!, but here, there's just no room). One thing I do is use a little bit of 3-in-1 oil...and I'll sometimes soak the sheath in warm water to aid as well.
I crimp...like factory. After crimping, I also "press" the crimped portion even tighter with small pliers. When I'm done with it, it would have to take some serious force to "pull" a connector off...it would be something of strong determination to do.
The machine shop fixed this bar and they also removed a stuck screw from an exhaust shield on my exhaust pipe. They charged me $84 for the whole job. I'm thinking if I just brought them the bar it would probably be at least $60. It was a bit more pricey than what I was expecting, but I still came out ahead vs buying re-pro bars at $120.
These bullet connectors do not have the crimps exposed. It's just the wire going right into the bullet...maybe somehow the bullet itself is crimped. I'll see if I can "pull" them off with force. If not, I'll just snip it since it sounds like if I lost a 1/2", I'll be more than fine. Even with the bullets snipped, it's not going to be easy...even with a staggered approach (which I do use!, but here, there's just no room). One thing I do is use a little bit of 3-in-1 oil...and I'll sometimes soak the sheath in warm water to aid as well.
I crimp...like factory.
After crimping, I also "press" the crimped portion even tighter with small pliers. When I'm done with it, it would have to take some serious force to "pull" a connector off...it would be something of strong determination to do.
kirrbby
Well-Known Member
I've snipped those bullets off, drilled the wire out of them, then soldered them back on. They're thick enough so you can heat the bullet itself with a soldering iron, hot enough to melt, and hold solder like a bucket...then just poke the stripped end of the copper wire right into the solder. Works pretty slick actually.
Yeah, that's a lot more than I would have expected which is becoming all too typical. Amazing how much "2% annual inflation"
is adding to the cost of everything. Agreed, $60 is still less than half of the delivered price of new bars.
Dunno what you mean about the crimped ends not being exposed. Assuming that you're referring to the clear, vinyl, covers...those can be gently heated, then moved. I open the crimped ends using an awl and jeweler's screwdriver. As for lubing the wires & bullets, Armor-All works well. But, there should be more than enough lead length to do this the easy way, as you're talking about. If you've got new bullet connectors, or can reuse what's on there, that's a viable option.
is adding to the cost of everything. Agreed, $60 is still less than half of the delivered price of new bars.Dunno what you mean about the crimped ends not being exposed. Assuming that you're referring to the clear, vinyl, covers...those can be gently heated, then moved. I open the crimped ends using an awl and jeweler's screwdriver. As for lubing the wires & bullets, Armor-All works well. But, there should be more than enough lead length to do this the easy way, as you're talking about. If you've got new bullet connectors, or can reuse what's on there, that's a viable option.