Will ct70 start if points gap is off?

85CTrider

85CTrider

Member
i tried setting the points now the bike wont start. i gave them a sanding and gapped as good as i could and now the bike wont start.. did i do something wrong? i can not get fly wheel off as no puller... i gapped using a ceral box top cardboard that has worked before... what do i do now?? is it so bad the bike wont even run rough??
 
85CTrider

85CTrider

Member
85CTrider said:
i tried setting the points now the bike wont start. i gave them a sanding and gapped as good as i could and now the bike wont start.. did i do something wrong? i can not get fly wheel off as no puller... i gapped using a ceral box top cardboard that has worked before... what do i do now?? is it so bad the bike wont even run rough??
Click to expand...
ALSO- when i rotate the flywheel i do not see the points opening and closing.. no matter the position of flywheel and no mater where i screw points down to - open closed etc... i rotate the wheel and do not see them open and close to much? can the heel be worn out??
 
85CTrider

85CTrider

Member
how much should the gap open and close when spinning the flywheel? a microscopic amount or should i be able to see it open and close? i swear on my other bike i could clearly see it open and close/... am i missing something here??
 
kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
When you gapped your points to .016" or whatever you gapped them to, THAT IS how far they should open, at top dead center, when you spin the flywheel.
 
85CTrider

85CTrider

Member
i gapped them - but my question is i thought when looking through the window in the flywheel you should be able to see the points open and close.... is that not right>>>>??? i am spining the wheel and looking in there and see not much movement,,,,, can the points be worn on the heel that makes it open and close??
 
L

lukelaw1

Active Member
The points should open and close as you rotate the flywheel counter clockwise, you should see the points just start to open at the "F" mark or set to .016 at the "T" mark. It is possible that the lobe is worn off the points. If that is the case you may need to polish the flywheel cam and also apply a little lube to the felt on the condenser.
 
85CTrider

85CTrider

Member
i have a flywheel puller now on order from amazon... then i can take flywheel off and check points.. also have new points and condeser coming.. do you need to do the timing deal with the light or can you skip that?
 
6

69ST

Well-Known Member
Set the gap with the timing mark lined up with the "F", then rotate the flywheel a few degrees in either direction...looking for the spot at which the largest gap occurs; that's where you want to set the gap. The breaker point arm only moves a few thousandths of an inch and the movement only occurs over a few degrees of crankshaft rotation. Use a bright light and look closely...it's very easy to miss (visually) what's going on, especially if you're unfamiliar with this assembly.
 
85CTrider

85CTrider

Member
i did that but the weird thing is after i gap it and screw it down the gap seems to close and not stay in the gap i did.. am i doing something wrong? i tried sanding the points with the piece of sandpaper through the hole is that good???
also when i put a screw driver between the points there is spring in the points and they close tight.. i will try lining on F and gapping again.. but main question is - if gap is way off will bike not start>>>>?
 
kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
If the Gap is off more than a smidge, the bike won't start.

your screwdriver goes into a notch near the locking screw to open close the gap when setting the points. Don't put your screwdriver between the points themselves. Between the points is where you measure the gap...using your feeler gague. The gap will be less than 1/32 of a inch...in other words, about 2/3 hairs.
 
6

69ST

Well-Known Member
Something is amiss and, unfortunately, without being able to see the engine firsthand, we're going to have to continue the back & forth dialogue until you become familiarized with the points assembly. I cannot imagine what would result in the point gap changing so dramatically & quickly. If it's a rubbing block failure, then new points ought to cure it. If it's the cam, inside the flywheel, then it'd have to beyond rough...like #36 grit sandpaper and that would almost certainly mean so much rust damage that the flywheel is only good for a paperweight, which I seriously doubt.

I've got one final "trick" for you. Set the point gap to maximum width, i.e. such that the points can just close at the narrowest part of the rotation cycle. That will give you the largest point gap...somewhere between ~0.018-0.020". You should definitely be able to see the breaker assembly opening & closing. You should also have spark, with timing close enough to get the engine to run. If the gap rapidly goes away, the flywheel has to come off to allow close inspection.
 
cjpayne

cjpayne

Well-Known Member
When setting the points, you have to remember the mounting screw needs to be just loose enough to adjust them, but tight enough to not move on its own. After adjusting, then you tighten it down and recheck the gap. Sometimes the gap will change after the mounting screw has been tightened.
 
6

69ST

Well-Known Member
To be clear...I'm not commenting on anyone's mechanical ability/familiarity with these engines. Fact is, I've no idea what your level of expertise and learning style might be. Thus, I have to make some guesses, not all of which are going to be correct. Better, imho, to go a little too far toward covering the basics, than to risk assuming that you know something when you don't...and creating confusion. S, if my replies seem a bit repetitious, it's only because I choose to err on the conservative side...for your benefit, as well as others who may still have some learning curve ahead. The goal is to get you up & running and able to keep your machine running well. The best CT70 expert is a dedicated owner who knows enough to be his/her own mechanic.
 
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