Random questions

Putting this here, for safe-keeping also.
Random info...

Atc70 engine cases are pretty much the same as ct70 cases of similar years. Atc70 engines are all 6v. 6v cases CAN be used to convert to 12v, but you have to cut a small notch out of the left side case for the trigger mount of the stator plate.
ATC70's are 3speed semi-auto's until mid 1982, they became 4down 4 speed semi-auto's. In 1985 they changed the shift pattern...4up semi-auto.
In 1986, 3 wheelers were outlawed and the TRX70 4 wheeler was born.
They were made only in 86 and 87. They are 4up semi-auto's, like the prior ATC's, BUT...the stator changed to ?, not sure what exactly...and the engine cases changed to GB4 12v type engine cases. The TRX70's are all 4speed semi-auto's in 12v cases. They have a 12v type crankshaft too.

ATC70 and TRX70 cases...and engines, can usually be had for cheap on eBay. They are a good choice to build engines for CT's and Z's.

Kickstarter's can be added, you just need to use a clutch side cover that has the kickshaft hole...or drill/mill the hole in the Atc70 side cover. Then use the correct pinion gear on the kickshaft...depending on the transmission used.

ATC70 crankshafts...
I need to get informed before I can post up good info about the cranks.
The flywheels on the early trikes look the same as similar year CT,s and Z's, but they are drilled to accept pullstart bits. Some of the ATC cranks are the same as the CT70H cranks...but I don't know which ones, or maybe it's ALL of them.
allenp told me that CT70 flywheel covers don't work with ATC70's...at least not the later years...4speeds. Maybe because of the longer H type crank.
More to come on all of this.

With the 2-piece flywheel covers...I've been told that the interference is only with the removable points cover. This has NOT been verified. However, if true it would mean that a spacer could be machined, giving one the best of 12v/CDI and nearly-stock appearance of the 6v/2-piece cover.

I know recoil depth and possibly flywheel cover depth changed from the first two years they made the atc70 (73 and '74), to when they started making them again in '78. Maybe because of a crank difference or just flywheel/recoil cage change?

kirrbby said:

allenp told me that CT70 flywheel covers don't work with ATC70's

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That is correct. I actually tested an ATC70 flywheel. It mounts up fine to an H crank, but the flywheel cover does not fit.

See post 132 in this thread. I think the pic attached to this posting will show the source of the interference.

Here's as far as I got on cranks for some of the stuff I looked at last fall/winter.

Anyone else been watching over on PM? Anyone planning to build a battery powered lilHonda??
https://www.planetminis.com/threads...ure-electric-conversion-project.252128/page-2

Don’t get me started. That’s cool. When I was a kid I had a car starter under the seat of a rupp frame and a car battery where the motor went. It was just an on off button on the handlebars to the solenoid. Range was good for a couple miles.

Deoodles said:

Don’t get me started. That’s cool. When I was a kid I had a car starter under the seat of a rupp frame and a car battery where the motor went. It was just an on off button on the handlebars to the solenoid. Range was good for a couple miles.

Click to expand...

I remember such bikes. There were "kits" available, most used starter motors from V8s. Never saw one, let alone got to ride one.

As for the electric CT70...I have seen a couple of those, in action. Manufactured in China, no doubt. I imagine that battery capacity is a problem. And then there's the controller system...mmmboy...Chinese quality, build to the lowest cost...what could possibly go wrong?

Well I learned something today...or maybe just realized... Our METRIC bolts use the same thread pitch(es) as STANDARD bolts. Threads per INCH. Not threads per centimeter, or something like that...lol
I...probably SHOULD have figured that out before now
Maybe I did, and it just slipped right back outta my mind

Ok...now I'm even more embarrassed...
Nevermind. Metric bolts DO have different threads. As in metric threads.
Maybe I'm just losing my mind.
I'll shut up now

Metric bolts go by thread pitch. There are 1.00 1.25 1.50 pitches. Dirt bikes and our little bike generally use 1.25 pitch.

I thought thread pitch was fastball, curveball, changeup, slider.

OLD CT said:

Metric bolts go by thread pitch. There are 1.00 1.25 1.50 pitches. Dirt bikes and our little bike generally use 1.25 pitch.

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Thread pitch also depends upon fastener diameter. On Hondas, typically M6 have 1.0 thread pitch, M8 1.25. From memory, the buddy peg bosses are M10x1.50. Adding a thread gauge to the tool chest is a good idea. Short of that, a known fastener can be used as a thread gauge.

A couple weeks ago, I mounted the engine back into the dax.
I used my floor jack bike lift gadget to get the engine in place...
With the bike standing straight, I set the engine on the jack and slid it up under the bike and just jacked it up...wiggling the engine between the top mounts until I could push the bolt thru. Then lowered the jack and got the lower mount. Worked slick and left both hands free.
HIGHLY recommended.

What happened to tucking in the stator wiring in between the engine and frame?

OLD CT said:

What happened to tucking in the stator wiring in between the engine and frame?

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Is that the RIGHT way? I never do that...didn't know.
When I jacked the motor up close, I tucked the vent hose in...between the brake pedal rod and swingarm I think. Put the wiring where I wanted it. Then jacked the engine up to where it started to lift the frame. Then started wiggling it in between the mounts. I use my handy little rubber mallet to help knock it in.
Using the jack really beats trying to just muscle it in there using your hands and feet and legs and whatever else I've tried in the past.
Move it in close. Tuck all the wires and hoses and stuff wherever you like them...between the engine and frame, if that's where they go, then jack and wiggle and whack the motor home.

Easy peasy.

Here...let me plug my video too. lol

Does anyone have experience getting a 1972 CT70 registered in NJ? I have the vermont paperwork in process but curious of I can transfer it to NJ as not sure you can ride on VT plates in NJ.

Just for funzies...
This is a storage lot just outside of my work. It gets filled and emptied, and filled again...at least a couple times a week. This is one of several storage lots around our complex.
My friend says there's a million dollars in every row, and I guess he's right. About 28 trucks, x $50,000 each...there must be 30-40 rows out there...

kirrbby said:

Just for funzies...
This is a storage lot just outside of my work. It gets filled and emptied, and filled again...at least a couple times a week. This is one of several storage lots around our complex.
My friend says there's a million dollars in every row, and I guess he's right. About 28 trucks, x $50,000 each...there must be 30-40 rows out there...

Click to expand...

Cut the fence and go get ya one.lol

Random information...

Honda shocks vs. Dratv shocks.

Compared the the originals, the dratv shocks are kinda upside-down.
The last pic attempts to show that the Honda caps have a thick piece of reinforcement spot welded in...making the top of the cap much stronger. The dratv caps are just thin sheet metal top to bottom.