Search results

The CM250C as a whole is much more of a real motorcyle, bigger and more substantial in every respect. Most parts (except the engine of course) would look out of place. If it had a front disc brake, I might have considered something. Now that I am starting to adapt the wiring harness, I've run...

Just a few odds and ends today. Installed brake pedal, rod, and now has brakes. Installed both sets of switchgear and levers from the 250. Hooked up front brake and clutch cables. Also installed the coil, barely fits under the tank. Then I gutted the headlight bucket of most of the CL wiring I...

Modified the rear fuel tank mount, raising it about 3/4". I had to remove part of a fin on the head, so now the fuel petcock does not interfere. Also found that since the 250 motor and its exhaust is so wide compared to the CL90 frame, the brake lever had to be totally reworked. Ended up cutting...

Got the motor cleaned up today. Was leaking oil out of the left (alternator) side and had a lot of caked on greasy dirt, as well as that white chalky crud on the fins. I'm hoping the leak is just the crankshaft seal being shot. A new one should be here on Monday. A new battery is on the way and...

Finished grinding down the welds, cleaned, filled and touched up with paint. Next have to work on fitting the brake pedal, weld up mounts to support the mufflers, fabricate and mount a battery box, and do a little engine work. Then comes the wiring and figuring where to hang the CDI, rectifier...

You shouldn't just assume that by connecting the same color wire from the old harness to the new one. everything will automatically work. Use your wiring diagram as a tool. A voltmeter or test light to check continuity is also helpful.

That little silver button is the pickup trigger, which gets a pulse from the flywheel as is goes around. That whole assembly is like a modern magneto, except it electronically, using the CDI box, powers the coil and tells the plug when to fire using just the 4 wires as Mini Bike Mike explained...

Once again, the solution is to get a solid state flasher. The old style flasher has an element inside that needs enough current (heat) to bend it away from a contact that would complete the circuit. Then the element cools, bends back and completes the circuit and the element heats up again. This...

If your bike has a 6v system, you need to use a 6v battery.

The harness is just the wires. If your problem is worn, severed, or missing wires, a new harness will take care of that. But if your bulbs, flasher, rectifier, switches, etc are bad, they need to be tested individually first, which is not difficult if you take it a step at a time.

The trigger is the magnetic pickup in the flywheel that sends a signal to the CDI to fire the plug. Since you said the CDI unit is good, and all the wiring is correct, process of elimination would say to check this.

Good Show. I like your little engine stand. I have that same little scissor jack, except I put tiny castors on the bottom.

Forget the harness, just concentrate on the ignition system, it's super simple, you don't even need to wire in a battery. Check the wiring diagram and make sure you're not grounding out the coil. For this engine you need no on switch to run, just a kill switch (that grounds the coil ) to shut it...

No, I'm gonna keep it stock and spindly.

I believe it will work just as you say. The only issue would be that the lights would flicker at idle. It would be just as easy to install a tiny 12 volt battery, like a 3AH.

Oil lines going into the carb? Are they crankcase vents? If they are, don't plug'em.

Spent the whole morning cutting plate, fitting and welding. Bolted up the motor, fit the exhaust, and cut down the kickstand. Test fitted the tank and seat, and sat on the bike and got a feel for the additional weight, hardly noticeable. So far, the only issue is the petcock bung hits the head...

If possible, get a compression tester that screws into the spark plug hole. It'll free up a hand and be more accurate.

" since it's easy to tell when a 2 stroke is running on straight gas" Yes, it'll seize up and die

Are you going with oil injection on your two stroke? Most guys just go with premix. I hope your engine is 50:1 and not 25:1. My 1962 Envinrude outboard is 25:1, runs great, but it's a smoker. Your bike should still be pretty light. My CL should end up a porky 250-260 lbs.