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Not bad!! There are adventure riders that would go for something like that. Rick

Flip the knob on your multimeter with the bike running to AC volts. Hope that you don't see more than about 0.1 volts AC - generally much less. Your DC volts number with the bike running should be 7.0 or so. The red wire being hot is also crazy wrong and my suspicion is a bad rectifier. Rick

Are you running automotive engine oil or a special motorcycle wet clutch "JASO MA" rated oil? The "Energy Conserving" / "Resource Conserving" car oils are too slippery for our clutch friction disk material. You have to read the fine print on the back of the jug to see what the oil supports...

CT90 rack? Totally different design from and ST90 rack. If you can tastefully make a CT90 rack work on an ST90, I'd love to see it. Rick

How did the shift forks look when you had it apart before? Rick

???? Thinking here. Rick

Somewhat of a weakness in the design of small Hondas but we can't really argue that point very hard when Honda successfully sold MILLIONS of this style of bike around the world. The voltage drop differences you are seeing around the bike could be attributed to some of the tiny copper strands...

Try putting a regular incandescent lamp in the tail light rather than an LED. That will consume more wattage at high RPM and possibly prevent the boiling of your battery electrolyte. Since these bikes don't have a standard voltage regulator, they run a "balanced" electrical system - watts...

There is an entire area on the site here dedicated to the 90 CC bikes. Rick

Did you check for the presence of AC volts at the battery with the engine revving? If the diodes in the rectifier leak, it won't be good for the battery and if its very much, it won't be good for the lamps. And head lamps are expensive if they are original. Rick

My guess is a loose shift drum stopper star plate. Or a bent roller arm that rides over the hills and valleys of the star plate. All of this is on the rider's right side of the engine under the drive gear. Rick

Its not worth $400 Canadian. I got cold feet on an Ebay bid a few years ago as a rack like this was headed north of $225.00 USD. Yet, a few months later I picked one up for around $40.00 USD. Rick

The rectifier is NOT meant to be a voltage regulator on these 90 CC bikes. Rather, the overall vehicle lighting on the bike is meant to consume the power produced in the stator to a normal level. Rick

The 90 CC spark advance mechanism looks like a one-piece assembly but its actually two piece-parts together. At a quick glance, it would appear that there is no wrong way to reassemble it but yes, there is. It's a 50-50 shot as to whether the advancer puts the hump on the camshaft in correct...

Put a 12 volt headlight in the bucket . . . problem solved. I had to do that on an over-achieving CT 110 bike. Rick

Absolutely iron clad sure - same for an ST90. They also rust, the springs get weak and leave the advancer assembly stuck too spark advanced. A place called "David Silver Spares" used to carry new springs but I'm not sure anymore - five bucks per spring. That same spring was used in a lot of...

The timing weights and springs are on the camshaft behind the points plate. Rick

Or, the clutch friction disks need adjustment. Or, worse . . . somebody used a modern automotive engine oil that is much too slippery for the clutch pack friction disks. Only use a motorcycle oil that is "JASO-MA" rated for wet clutch engines...

I think they used lacquer paint back in the day which was an easier process - single stage. Rick

Hello Gabriel, Try this for a rectifier: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/genesic-semiconductor/GBPC2506T/3927928 Its rated at 600 volts peak inverse and 25 amps which is over-the-top PLENTY for the electrical system. Even with flipping the high beam low beam switch at 6000 RPM...