190CC going in...

OLD CT

Well-Known Member
Well, my 140cc Lifan treated me well for 11 years and 7000+ miles. Still runs good, clutch slips a little under the serious ride it like you stole it conditions.
I prepped this 190 for installation. 18T clearance work. Then fill the void ''pic 3'' on the L/S lower case by adding Ultra Grey silicone. Dummy Up! like Archie said, hehe to the poor gasket to surface fitment, pic 1. Pic shows the bead, but I added more all the way to the end after the pic. I sprayed the starter chain with Maxima chain wax then greased it a little. I removed the head cover painted it black and checked, reset the valves. They were tight!, .001! Tight is usually good :LOL: but not in this case. :( I reset to .003 @ TDC. Waiting on some more stuff in the meantime.
 

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hambone

Active Member
I have a CT70H that I need to mod like that, is that the Daytona engine? Is the 190cc a direct bolt in with no frame mods?
 

OLD CT

Well-Known Member
No frame mods. This is the plain Jane 2v Zongshen 190cc. They say it's made in the Daytona factory. 17 rear wheel HP. You will have to lose the stock size fender. The 140cc mill was very close to the oem fender, but fit nice around a 1/4 inch clearance? I went with a real nice z50 repro chrome front that seems as thick as an oem Honda fender. Pics to follow of the new fender. I could give you some detailed info when you are ready.

You are going to have to get rid of the ''cush drive'' rubber mounted sprocket hub and buy the direct bolt sprocket to hub.
The 140cc beat ''the piss'' out of them and needed new dampers every two years! A 17 HSP engine would shred them in one day! Also add a loud ass exhaust to the mix. I went with a flat slide Nibbi 28mm ''black edition'' so you know it's good.. lol, with the adjustable ''double pumper'' feature for WOT conditions. Shoots more fuel in. Throwing the supplied carb in the metal recycle bin at the dump.

Pretty sure geared @ 18-30 rear should allow it to hit 35-40 in first gear. We shall see.
 
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OLD CT

Well-Known Member
OK, New hub. Solid. Brand spankin new $65 dollar Renthal R1 4750 tensile strength gold chain. New front fender naturally they have different hole spacing so you ''line it up'' drill it and kill it. :cool: Plenty O' room now.
Need a bigger gas-tank? Sure! Also, an added bonus, 12 ft high on my 1978 RM125C. Back when I was 30 or so. Anyone have some HIGHER or better air pics on 70's vintage MX shit?? Feel free to post em!
 

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Old Guy Too Many Bikes

Well-Known Member
I'm very interested in how this all works out for you. My CT70 has a YX140 with over 4000 miles on it and still running strong. I'm running 18-31 teeth with 120/90-10 tires. Are you making the switch to 428 chain? I'd also like to know how it cruises at 50 mph (reserve power, noise, vibration, etc.) Where are you putting a big enough battery to power the electric starter. Also, would be interested to see what your fuel mileage ends up at. Depending on how I ride, I'm currently getting 80-100 mpg.
 

OLD CT

Well-Known Member
Great questions. The 18T 420 is very close in there. Doubt 428 18T would fit. As long as you buy the ''best 420 chain'' you can get, there is no problem with 420. There really isn't a huge difference in the 2 except when you are already at the limit of hitting with a 18T. It is nice that the bike will have kick and electric. I am going to try it with the battery I have in there now. You can always use a jump box right at the starter bolt before heading out and kick it once it's fully warmed up, when stopping for a break.
 

Old Guy Too Many Bikes

Well-Known Member
I have two YX 140's, one in my CL90 and one in my CT70. The CL has the 428 chain and it rarely needs adjustment. The 428 is only very slightly taller, but much wider and for that reason, stronger. The sprockets should last longer as well. And even on the 140, the 18t 428 front sprocket fit. Also, my CT70 is very wheelie prone in 1st and even 2nd gear. It's hard to get a good launch, which makes my CL much quicker off the line. The 190 is gonna be wild. Have you considered a longer swingarm. It also might help high speed stability. I wonder if there's a lithium battery available with the cranking power of a bigger battery, but in a smaller case. Keep on rockin'.
 

OLD CT

Well-Known Member
Not going with an aftermarket swingarm. The stock swing is way better built. I bought one standard length, and the fitment ''would need shims'' and several other things that take away from the strength, rear shock mounting is cheezy , also the brake arm, poor design and worse arm that comes in the kit didn't fit. The stock arm has a thick fixed steel mount for the little drum brake arm. The aftermarket only has a regular bolt that does not have a shank where the spring rides. Nail in the coffin? 120/90/10's are also too big for it. The swingarm also required a 220mm axle bolt. You would have to use a trailwing or smaller. Also not interested in worrying if it's going to crack and baby sit it by looking at it all the time with a fine-tooth comb. I am not spending 500-600 on a G Craft either. This is the first time I have purchased something that I had to change my mind on using it. Avoid Kepspeed swingarms like the plague.
Standard length or extended. They are not worth it...
 

Old Guy Too Many Bikes

Well-Known Member
Good to know, just be prepared for the light front end. My CT was really twitchy at speeds over 50 with the stock tires. The 120/90-10's really aid in stability at speed. If I could afford it, I'd go with 12's like on my Monkey. I'd think a decent welder could extend a stock swingarm and even gusset the heck out of it for strength. In any case, get your project done and see how it performs. I'll be following your progress.
 

OLD CT

Well-Known Member
Hello Rod, yes, I have watched Ken's videos and he is one of a couple of guys that inspired me. Did you notice ALL the for-sale signs around his house. Across the street and right next to him LOL! That 190cc IS a loud MFer! Test and tune days! Driving the neighbors away one at a time! He He!
 
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OLD CT

Well-Known Member
Hey OGWTMB. This is a picture of the new ''solid'' hub. This is the clearance pic. It seems this setup, pushes the sprocket ever so slightly closer to the swingarm on a ''stocker''. So, I do not recommend a wider 428 sprocket chain combo. The homework has been done for you.
IMG_1591.jpg
 

OLD CT

Well-Known Member
Another thing, when switching from the 140cc I found that my 11 year old harness from Webllc '' remember them?'' The innovator of the 99c starting bid for the PZ19 carb! is not compatible. I miss them, decent parts for a decent price! My new rectifier is a 5 pin, and the old web harness is a 4 pin. Some claim this new 190cc has a full wave rectifier in the engine kit. I know my current setup is half wave. As I will admit electrics, wiring etc is not my forte. Bit the bullet and bought the trail buddy 190 harness. They have one listed just for this engine with their own rectifier and sub harness and a disclaimer it's meant to be compatible with their parts only, like plugs, switches. $113 shipped, ouch! Just beware if your rectifier is a 4 pin you may have an added expense. I looked to see if there was an option but the videos were not helpful. IE some dude in Thailand or Malaysia that I could barely understand with loud custom Hondas ripping by one after another in the backround. Lol!
 

fatcaaat

Well-Known Member
I don't think I"d agree with the elmination of the rear cush drive setup. If you did that, then you also changed the rear hub for a chinese hub I'm assuming, made from less than optimal pot metal. The cush drives are there to be shredded...over time and keeps the shock and dump of power from your motor to the rear. If that isn't there, all the shock is dumped into your clutch basket and drive train. Takegawa and gcraft both make excellent aftermarket dampened hubs if you don't like the stock...gcraft uses differently engineered dampers, while takegawa uses the stock style. Either way, unless the wheels are cast solid, like I do have on one of my bikes, I'll always want a dampened rear.
 

OLD CT

Well-Known Member
Thank you, I will look into the g craft hub. Yes, I do understand the purpose of the rubbers cushioning the shock load to the clutch/trans. I will leave this hub on for the break in period now that I know better versions are available. I looked for the hub you suggested, and I do not see one available. Just a g craft offset 20mm for wide swingarms. Nothing for Takegawa also. Thanks anyway.
 
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Rod_CL-70

New Member
Hello Rod, yes, I have watched Ken's videos and he is one of a couple of guys that inspired me. Did you notice ALL the for-sale signs around his house. Across the street and right next to him LOL! That 190cc IS a loud MFer! Test and tune days! Driving the neighbors away one at a time! He He!
Yes, I did notice that when he was living in Florida. I guess rhat 190cc is really loud.
 

Old Guy Too Many Bikes

Well-Known Member
Sure looks like it takes a lot more time, fabricating, and expense, than just buying a motor and dropping it in. For a full resto or a project bike, yeah, maybe it's something to consider. But if you already have a fine running 140, it seems like a lot to go through for some more torque and maybe a 10 mph higher top speed on a bike that's already pretty scary at 60. Anyway, it's enjoyable just to be an observer on these builds if not a participant, ride on!
 

OLD CT

Well-Known Member
I just bought a brand new oem rear hub, rubbers, oem bearings, and new oem circlip just in case I don't like the fixed sprocket. I looked for what faatcaat suggested and it doesn't exist for a stock swingarm. 20mm offset setup for wide swingarms is what I found. No Bueno.
 

Rod_CL-70

New Member
I just bought a brand new oem rear hub, rubbers, oem bearings, and new oem circlip just in case I don't like the fixed sprocket. I looked for what faatcaat suggested and it doesn't exist for a stock swingarm. 20mm offset setup for wide swingarms is what I found. No Bueno.
Where did you purchase oem rear hub? I'm looking for the front hub.
 
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