1970 CT70 Original Keihin Carb Rebuild

Discussion in 'General' started by zodc, Aug 13, 2020.

  1. zodc

    zodc New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2020
    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    2
    Couple questions popped up.

    floatvalve-1.jpg floatvalve-17.jpg
    First, how much will it matter if the float valve is 1.7 instead of 1.0?
    The bought it for the float needle but when I installed the new 1.7 float valve too because, well, it's new and came with the needle.

    Also, gasket - insulator - gasket.
    The Clymers book is proving to be, as most have said, too broad covering too many models to make any sense.
    IMG_0576.JPG
    This is my inlet pipe. According to Clymers, that's for a CT90. Anyway, my question is about the insulator. Is that required? It wasn't being used and I think I found it in the parts box of the bike. I purchased a complete gasket set (Vesrah) and it comes with one gasket for the inlet pipe-to-head. I see individual gasket (Honda) parts for sale. Is it better to get the gaskets and use the insulator (heat stop)?
     
  2. zodc

    zodc New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2020
    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    2
    IMG_1302.PNG
    Well after waiting for some parts (new bolts/screws for the right case cover) I was able to put the bike back together and test out the rebuilt old carb. Needs some fine tuning but all in all, it's running great (with an air cleaner too).

    My best guess, the float valve being 1.7 instead of 1.0, just allows an increased amount of gas into the bowl. Sound correct?
    Got gaskets for the inlet pipe and insulator as well.
     

Share This Page