1973 ct70 no spark

[KennyCT]

Ok, i'm ordering new contacts and a flywheel puller as we speak. Thank you guys for all the tips and information, I do appreciate it. Ill be sure to update y'all when they arrive.

 

[KennyCT]

Must be an HK0 then. The silver jug was throwing me off. I dont see a neutral switch either. Don't know if that chain could be soaked and reused, but I definitely would replace it soon.

Also, I soaked the chain and oiled it up, it seems to be pretty usable now. I'll probably get another one down the road, but I believe it works for this sort of "test phase" that i'm in.

 

[cjpayne]

Also, I soaked the chain and oiled it up, it seems to be pretty usable now. I'll probably get another one down the road, but I believe it works for this sort of "test phase" that i'm in.

I can understand that. When I get a new one, I always save the master link assembly. SO MANY times over the years, I've lost the little snap clip and needed another one or they just get misplaced....or they they seem to grow legs and hitchhike to another state when your back is turned.....or they sometimes fly/spring off to reach the escape velocity that seems to teleport them to another dimension.lol

 

[69ST]

Unfortunately, I was starting to think the same thing. Someone else may have jacked with it after he did.

I was always afraid that carb cleaner or brake cleaner would eat on the wire coatings on the stator coils, so I always use electrical contact cleaner or WD40(especially if water got in there).

With machinery that's been around 4-5 decades, anything could have happened.

Translation of "it ran _____ago" = "non-running"...in American English.

I share that concern about using solvents on stator coils. But, to be fair, it really doesn't seem to hurt the insulating "varnish" that was applied back in the day. I wouldn't go "brakleen happy" on a stator coil but a reasonable shot, after 46 years is highly unlikely to do anything but leave the coil cleaner.

 

[69ST]

Also, I soaked the chain and oiled it up, it seems to be pretty usable now. I'll probably get another one down the road, but I believe it works for this sort of "test phase" that i'm in.

That chain is nothing but problems, waiting for an opportunity to manifest. If you're going to replace the chain & sprockets anyway then, by all means, take advantage of the sheer convenience. If the sprockets aren't already worn beyond the usable limit, a P.O.S. chain like this one will change that and in short order.

 

[KennyCT]

The points are all screwed up, they are not making good even contact with each other. Order new points. There is a slot in the points and on the case to stick a slotted screwdriver in and adjust them.
Leave the adjust screw only slightly loose, not ''too loose'' to hold an adjustment.

Seriously confused on setting the point gap. I have the new points installed, but when im adjusting the gap it doesnt realy seem like it's doing much. Do I loosen the screw, make the adjustment, then tighten it all the way down. Or do I leave the screw loose?

 

[scooter]

Slightly loosen the screw so that you can make the adjustment. “Slightly loose” allows for some friction between the plate and the case and holds your adjust. As you twist with the slotted screwdriver as OLD CT described above you are twisting the orientation of the plate carrying the points relative to the case. The pivot point of that rotation is the “point cam” on the flywheel. Once the gap is established, the friction keeps it there until you tighten the screw to hold your alignment.

 

[KennyCT]

I got the points to adjust and I had it running for a bit, but it seems that I cant get the cam on the flywheel to match up just right with the points to open them. How tight do you tighten the flywheel down?

 

[kirrbby]

If you remove the flywheel, there is a keyway on the crankshaft...the shaft that the flywheel slides onto. There is also a keyway in the hole of the flywheel...where it slides onto the crankshaft. There SHOULD be a key in there to line up the 2 keyways perfectly...a woodruff key, I think it's called. With the keyways lined up on the key, tighten down the flywheel nut completely...TIGHT. There is a torque spec that I don't remember.

Then with the flywheel on, spin the flywheel counterclockwise until the T is on the notch in the case...if it don't want to stay there, try turning the flywheel one more revolution and onto the T again.

Then, loosen the screw on the points...then snug it back down LIGHTLY.
Then, set your points.
Then when you get them set properly, tighten the points screw down tight, to hold them forever.

 

[KennyCT]

I believe I have resolved the issue. It appeared that the heel on the points that touches the cam on the flywheel wasnt actually making contact. So I took out the screw and noticed I had put both washers on top of the points instead of under, so when I was tightening it would lean up more than it needs, making it not touch the cam. The bike runs now, poorly, but it still runs. Slowly but surely its coming together.

 

[69ST]

Approach the project one diagnosis, followed by one change (hopefully, a successful repair) at a time. You'll get there...this IS the "magical formula", if you like the phrase

 

[Chrisqa]

The points seem to always be shut, I just tried adjusting them, but they always want to snap back shut. I try to move just the top contact after loosening the screw, but both move together. I took a picture of them included below.

If you want to make them work temporarily you can remove the flywheel and take out the points and try to straighten them back and file them but they will only be good for testing to see if the motor runs. You might have to order something else too.

 

[Chrisqa]

I like to experiment. I wanted to see what would happen at maximum spark advance. I moved the t mark to the bottom and Piston at bdc. Then adjusted the points rubbing block so it touches the flywheel cam and breaker points closed. This places the timing at maximum advance and the engine doesn't ping and runs fine on 87 octane. It went 2 mph faster 37 to 39 mph. If you kick it too soft it will kick back at you. Not all engines will tolerate this just use good common sense and check for ping and don't dog it all the time. Eventually the rubbing block will wear down and timing will retard slowly. If you have a worn flywheel cam this might be an option. The only important part is where the points open on the cam and be sure to put silicone lube on the cam.