1974 CT-70 Help with front forks

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viperdriver5150

New Member
Hello

I could really use some help with trying to remove the front forks. I was going to put on new boots, seals and touch up the aluminum sections at the bottom. I removed the top bolts and for the life of me I do not see any other bolts that need to be loosened. From what I read, after removing the top bolts the shock is supposed to slide straight out and they feel like they are frozen in place.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I just don't want to ruin anything.
 
motodevo

motodevo

Active Member
I assume you have loosened off the bottom clamp bolts too. I find after years of being tightened up the bottom clamp tends to hold its shape and doesn't just spring open(not even a little)even when the bolts are removed. I find i have to persuade it to spring open by driving in the tip of a large flat blade (a chisel, tyre lever, anything that is tapered really) with a few gentle hits of the hammer into the gaps on the bottom clamps (with bolts removed obviously) until it opens up and breaks it hold on the fork leg, then i tap the top of the fork out gently with a rubber/plastic mallet until its loose enough to pull out by hand. You may find you also have to open the gap to put it back into the clamp.
 
scooter

scooter

Well-Known Member
If they are K0 you need to remove the lower aluminum collars. I use a set of ballbeaing and a big wrenc to get them off. More info if needed to follow. If later model remove the clamping bolts in the tree. I like to use those bolts in the opposite direction to wedge the "clamp" open. They can get pretty tight from rust and require a few good taps to drive the tubes from the tree.

Post up what model bike you are working on
 
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viperdriver5150

New Member
I did loosen the lower bolt also but I wasn't sure if there was anything else and I didn't want to start banging away in case I did miss something.

I will definitely try the screwdriver to open it up a bit. Guessing it is much like the kick start lever or anything really that pinches to hold in place.

Thank you so much for all of the advice, it is greatly appreciated.
 
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viperdriver5150

New Member
I was also going to ask, how much for oil does each fork require and do you basically just turn it upside down and dump out the old oil? With the seals I understand there is a snap ring holding the upper section and lower section.

Sorry for the dumb question, I have never done a set of forks before.
 
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69ST

Well-Known Member
The screwdriver joint expansion "trick" is very effective. Just be sure to have the fork cap bolt completely threaded-into the inner leg...before striking with a soft mallet. Sometimes, a strap wrench can be use to break the bond between lower tree & fork leg, the section between the two trees is non-swept (stationary and never contacts the oil seal) area...best place to apply torque.

As for oil replacement, separate the lower/outer portion of the fork leg from the inner. You'll be surprised when you see how much abrasive dirt is in there. A parts washer is ideal for cleaning out the lowers. Refill quantity varies. Starting with completely empty fork legs (a.k.a. dry fill)...3.8-4.2oz, using 15 or 20W fork oil gives the best results, for an adult-weight (over 150lbs) rider. That's beyond factory spec and using much heavier oil. What you're trying to do is slow the damping action, with the thicker oil, and stiffen the spring action, with a smaller trapped air pocket. The important element in this equation is stopping short of hydrolocking the fork legs before they can be bottomed-out. Two methods: one is to start with 3.8oz of oil, then add 5-10cc more; reinstall the cap and try to bottom-out the fork leg. This will take a few steps. When you just notice the fork action begin to get stiffer near full-compression, you're on the edge. It's usually best to stop there, then add the same total amount of oil the other fork leg and call it a success. The other method is to fully compress the fork leg and look for the oil level inside. You don't want to see the oil level reach the top...true hydrolock. Adjust the oil level until you get the best result, when tested as previously outlined...then fill the other leg to the same level. This is referred to as "oil tuning" and can make a surprising improvement with a K1-`79 fork.

Do NOT remove the screws inside the axle flanges, to drain the old oil. They're a mutha to reseal.
 
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viperdriver5150

New Member
Ok, I got the forks out, flushed with new oil, seals and boots and now re-installing.

Forget my previous question if seen before editing. Shocks are installed and everything went perfect. Racerx thank you so much for your detailed information, it really helps someone who has never done a shock before. I am so glad I didn't take the easy route as it is so nice to have everything clean and sealed properly.

For future reference, what is the easiest way to get out the seals. I read that if you compress the shock they can pop out but these were what felt like welded in. Original seals by the way.
 
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kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
There is a inner snap ring above the seal that keeps it from popping out. You have to remove the snap rings. Then, you have to EXTEND the shock...pull the inner leg out of the lower/outer leg...with force. Like a slide hammer. Slam it a few times, or whatever it takes to pop the seal. Keep in mind, it could be messy when it comes out.
 
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viperdriver5150

New Member
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I just thought I would put a before and after of the front. Thank you again for all the help and is greatly appreciated.
 
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69ST

Well-Known Member
That's amazing....they started out all clean and nice. How'd you get `em so crusty?:ROFLMAO:

Very nice work (y), just shown as "after and before".
 
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