1974 ct70 oil pump question

[stevefrench69]

Hey it been a long time since ive been back on the site,good to be back. I am trying to reassemble a ct70 motor and have put the cases back together,but while putting the oil pump shaft,sprocket and oil pump the shaft has side to side play without the timing chain in. The shaft disconnects from oil pump gear pin if it slides to far out. I have never encounted this issue, my question is it just the timing chain tension that holds it in deep enough or am i missing something(btw i installed the oil pump sprocket both says and the shaft still moves side to side) thanks

 

[kirrbby]

That is normal. The chain does hold it in far enough to engage the pump. The gear/sprocket should go on with the "longer" side toward the pump. That will ensure the shaft is far enough right.

After you get it back running, you can pull the lower/exhaust side valve adjustment cover to make sure it's full of oil. It should only take 30 seconds or so of running to pump oil up there if your pump is working.
If it's dry, there is a problem.

 

[stevefrench69]

Hey thanks for the quick reply i got one other quick question i couldnt find a detailed answer to. Im used to the auto adjusting timing chain tensioners,this one has the 2 springs,shaft,keeper and bolt. Whats the procedure to install and set tension. I just want to make sure i get it right. Thanks

 

[kirrbby]

I'm not sure I know the RIGHT way. I think the Climers manual says to run the engine with the tensioner loose, chain rattling. Then turn the adjuster in until the rattle quiets, then set the screw and jamb nut.
I just turn it in, engine running, until I feel resistance. Then back it off a half turn or so, and set the screw.

Maybe someone else will pipe in with a better, or correct, method.

I'd set it when you install the chain and set cam timing, just making sure the chain doesn't go tight when you spin the crank...little loose. Then maybe check it when the engine is running.

Make sure to spin the tensioner rod so the set screw hits on the FLAT side of the rod.

 

[stevefrench69]

Thank you, I am trying to bring back a seized motor back from the grave and give it new life since these motors are getting more rare in my area. Not doing a full resto on the bike, just want it looking like an original survivor for now and actually enjoy it. 1973 frame and 1974 motor, 1974 frame was rotted on one side near rear shock sadly.

 

[cjpayne]

I initially do what the clymners says about until it stops rattling. Later, after driving awhile and up to temp, I will go in and adjust to where the engine idles its fastest. Getting them to tight will drag them down and possibly screw the cam journal. OEM DID chains are the best.

 

[69ST]

When assembling a fresh rebuild, which includes a new timing chain, roller, idler, tensioner cap (and sprockets, if needed), the chain will usually be very tight, without help from the tensioner. I cannot recall one that needed more than a very slight bit preload...that would've been a huge red flag that something isn't right. Usually, chain tension is like a guitar string, almost scary. It settles-in quickly with the initial break-in,usually, no further adjustment needed for a very long time.