1979 CT70 turn signal mount (winker stay)

Discussion in 'Wanted/Looking For' started by Kansas Corey, Jul 13, 2018.

  1. Kansas Corey

    Kansas Corey Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2018
    Messages:
    30
    Likes Received:
    2
    Looking for this part for my 1979 Honda CT70. I need to mount rear turn signals (called a winker stay) to make it road legal and would prefer this route versus making something else work. I believe the original part number is 33601-098-951 and I've attached some photos for reference. Let me know what you have! Corey
     

    Attached Files:

  2.  
  3. racerx

    racerx Administrator
    Staff Member Administrator

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2005
    Messages:
    12,792
    Likes Received:
    1,100
    You should be able to use any K3-`79. The only difference is the finish, the later ones were painted low-gloss black. Why does this matter? It's because the turn-signal era bikes sold in comparatively small numbers. Seriously, sales figures went over the proverbial cliff circa 1973. That leaves a minuscule pool of parts...used + NOS. Considering the earlier, chromed, version improves your odds of finding one to restore/refinish. Be patient, these are unobtainium. Given time, they do pop-up on ebay.
     
  4. Kansas Corey

    Kansas Corey Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2018
    Messages:
    30
    Likes Received:
    2
    Thanks RacerX! I've been struggling to find some photos besides the ones posted - didn't realize they were all the same. Chrome / Flat Black - either works for me. I'll keep an eye out, but in the meantime, looks like I'm stuck figuring out my own mounting system..
     
  5. racerx

    racerx Administrator
    Staff Member Administrator

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2005
    Messages:
    12,792
    Likes Received:
    1,100
    If functionality is the top priority...over purist-originality...you have lots of options. Most all of them will be better than original. D.O.T. regs of that era were ham-fisted. Want an unbiased option of how lame the K3-79 turn signals were on these models? Take a look at how many intact specimens you see, circa 2018...not many.

    At the very least, I'd go for flexible, polymer stalks; make those the failure points, if they ever collide with something. Better yet, move the signal bodies inboard, where they're less likely to snag three of everything. A Dax (ST70) tail light bracket could be sourced new, then fitted with signal bodies. The mounts are located to either side of the license plate bracket. That'll give you a good 6" additional side clearance, compared to the originals.

    Your frame has the threaded bosses, just below the TL bosses. That makes life easier, should you decide to fab mounting brackets. FYI, these were used to mount the original rear stalk unit.
     
  6. Kansas Corey

    Kansas Corey Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2018
    Messages:
    30
    Likes Received:
    2
    RacerX - thank you again. Exactly the type of problem solve that I was looking for! I'm definitely after functionality over originality when it comes to the blinkers. Lots of great light options out there, but I wasn't sure how to mount them - this might work out great. Need to do a little looking and studying this evening to make sure - really appreciate it.
     
  7. racerx

    racerx Administrator
    Staff Member Administrator

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2005
    Messages:
    12,792
    Likes Received:
    1,100
    If you can convert to 12v electrics...there have never been more options. LED tech has come of age....arrays, light bolts, integrated units...

    6v power limits your options but, you still have options...mainly stock-ish. You could source an aftermarket, integrated TL unit, then swap-out the 12v bulbs for 6v.
     
  8. OLD CT

    OLD CT Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 15, 2006
    Messages:
    4,270
    Likes Received:
    614
    You should consider what a pain in the ass having the original winker stay is going to entail, bumping everything in sight and a pain in the ass just to avoid hitting into the blinkers ''just walking around the bike''!
    Here is what I did. Straight forward and plug and play. They flex a little, if you happen to bump em also. Very hard to bump em though.
     

    Attached Files:

  9. racerx

    racerx Administrator
    Staff Member Administrator

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2005
    Messages:
    12,792
    Likes Received:
    1,100
    Exactly, every time I work on a model that's wearing factory turn signals, it soon becomes a test of self-restraint to not invent new obscene oaths!
    Those signals are very tidy for the application(y) If your bike has the K3-`79 HL ears...the ones that have the holes to mount signals, this is about as plug & play as it gets with aftermarket signals. If you ever break one, just buy another...very unlike the originals and their unobtainium parts. If your HL ears lack signal mounts, go for clip-on mounts, one for each handlebar. I'm not that fond of mounting anything but a headlight bucket to HL ears...and far less so when it comes to punching holes in them.

    Not that it's very practical, for most but here's an example of what's available, in 12v LEDs. Can you spot the turn signals? 3 of 4 are visible in the pic.
    bway.jpg
     
  10. OLD CT

    OLD CT Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 15, 2006
    Messages:
    4,270
    Likes Received:
    614
    This bike has a 79 front end with the giganto aftermarket H/L bucket, cheapie 70mph speedo, that works ''really well'' for what it is and 77 bars. That is a trick set up, on yours Bob.
     
    #9 OLD CT, Jul 17, 2018
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2018
  11. kirrbby

    kirrbby Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2009
    Messages:
    8,538
    Likes Received:
    1,029
    OLD CT, that is a awesome lookin bike.
     
  12. racerx

    racerx Administrator
    Staff Member Administrator

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2005
    Messages:
    12,792
    Likes Received:
    1,100
    You may be surprised, maybe not, Pat...I like that hybrid 6" HL setup. The larger reflector is a noticeable improvement, in usable light output, over the smaller 5-incher. And the "pilot" light in the reflector, gives you DTRLs, with the stock half-wave/"balanced" electrical system. Had I not found a way to mod my stator array to float the ground and go full wave, that would have been on my bike. That HL setup could be a blessing for a lot of guys with 6v models, especially K0/HK0 owners, since it fits the earlier 5" mounts. FWIW, I used a Jincheng knockoff K0 speedo in my test mule bike; you're right, it was as accurate as OEM. From what I've read, there have been some mechanical failures. I sold mine, by request, with less than 1000 miles on the odometer, no problems to that point. For the price, wtf, right? I mean they're cheap, easily opened if need be...what have you got to lose?

    Now, all of that having been said, when/if someone goes to 12v electrics that's when things get seriously interesting. That HL has enough internal depth to hold a "real" HL bulb. An incandescent H4 bulb could be used, with minor modification and there'd be enough airspace to dissipate the heat. I bench-tested a 35W halogen HID bulb, peak temp was 190F, at the hottest spot. That's pretty toasty but, well below the failure point of any parts involved and, that was after an hour, stationary, on the bench...literally. Riding, even slowly, cools things down considerably. With 12VDC power, LED headlight bulbs become a possibility and those have finally become affordable. There's enough room for the cooling fan, or cooling ribbon, depending upon the type chosen. Light output is respectable, better than some cars. I spent $70, which imo is kinda spendy, for a HL bulb. Consider the price of an NOS sealed beam bulb, which in terms of light output, sucks out loud. Is it really that crazy? In my case, the craziness is that I try to be off the road before dark...too many potential surprises. Still, I've got the option and one helluva DTR that never produces a surface temp above 100F, if that.

    With the turn signals, LEDs are easily mounted, or "hidden" in plain sight. Single led bolts can be used, for example, to mount the license plate. Those nickel-sized LEDs are so bright you don't want to look at them directly, if you're within reach of the bike. They're cheap, too. They could be used to mount the HL bucket. As I recall, they're about $10 a pop. Electronic flasher relays can be had for ~$40. IOW, there's trick stuff available for very reasonable money, if one is interested. A lot of this comes down to personal preference/taste. I went with the cateye TL because the K0-style wasn't bright enough for my liking. Originally, I was planning to use a license plate bracket, with LED turn signal arrays...a 5-minute bolt-on + wiring project that'd leave everything else stock-appearing. These setups aren't even the tip of the proverbial iceberg, in terms of what's now available and the options just keep getting better. The lone fly in the ointment is that they all require 12VDC. That leaves anyone with a 6V electrical system out in the cold. Conversion is possible but, that's where simplicity heads toward the exit. A lot of owners already have 12v electrics, that came with a later engine...including the Chinese lumps, which are all 12v/CDI.

    In case anyone is wondering why I've gone so far afield, there is a logical reason...beyond my natural long-windiness. When I began looking for better lighting options, years before LH existed, LED tech was decidedly "not ready for primetime"...not that good and extortionately pricey. At one time, the best LED headlight was a CREE LED, yours for everyday low price of $600(!). It's been a frustratingly long, painstaking, R&D process, to which hardly anyone would really give much thought, let alone care to replicate. I'm now passing along the "Cliff's notes" version, for those who might be able to use it...without having to invest a lot of years & dollars.
     
    kirrbby likes this.
  13. Kansas Corey

    Kansas Corey Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2018
    Messages:
    30
    Likes Received:
    2
    OLD CT - love the simplicity and I'm definitely leaning towards the aftermarket route at this point.

    Couple of questions for you if you don't mind: Are those from eBay or Amazon by chance? Did the ones you used have a threaded rod mount (https://www.ebay.com/itm/253644019035) or is more of a flat mount (https://www.ebay.com/itm/191535154870)? The main reason for the question is that I'm curious how you mounted the rear signals? Did you use the 6mm threaded hole for the original winker stay or do something more custom?

    Final question - are you running 6V or 12V for your turn signals?

    s-l1600.jpg s-l1601.jpg
     
  14. racerx

    racerx Administrator
    Staff Member Administrator

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2005
    Messages:
    12,792
    Likes Received:
    1,100
    You'll have to run 6v bulbs, 12v conversion doesn't fit your plans as outlined. Dratv should have 6v equivalents, as most aftermarket signals come fitted with 12v bulbs.
     
  15. OLD CT

    OLD CT Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 15, 2006
    Messages:
    4,270
    Likes Received:
    614
    Racerx is right, this bike is a 12v bike, so you will have to get some new 6v bulbs.No biggie. They look just like my blinkers Corey.

    I am 'almost' sure they fit in the holes with no issue, or did I open em up a little? It was a long time ago since I installed em. lol.;) The blinkers with the black you posted will not work.
     
    #14 OLD CT, Jul 19, 2018
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2018

Share This Page