2 Black 1978 CT70 Build

Carlo C.

Active Member
Guys,
Did not have much time to work on it after work today. Did get it off of the build table and rolling around, hopefully button it up and take it for a ride this weekend. In a rush I even put the forks on the wrong side I will fix that over the weekend.

Silver (17).jpg


SIlver (14).jpg



Carlo C.
 
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Carlo C.

Active Member
Guys,
I need some help with a few things to finish up the bike I think these tall handle bars have caused me some trouble:

Throttle Cable- Straight Screw in type for aftermarket MX style throttle.
I have 2 cables one is too long 46" and one is too short 31" (That is measuring the outside black sleeve)
33-34" would be perfect. I am willing to buy a complete set with handle. Cable has to be black

Clutch Cable- The one I have is approximately 38" long I probable need one about 34" long.

Hydraulic Line for Disc Brake- The line for my disc brake works, but would be a lot nicer if it was just a couple inches longer. The one I have is approximately 34-1/2" long.

Grab Bar for rear of seat- I am looking for a grab bar that goes behind the seat preferably black, but I will take chrome. I have only seen them on the clone bikes lately. I am not looking for the luggage rack just the single bar.
Grab Rail.jpg

Thanks for any help.
Carlo C.
 

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
If you check around at your local bike shops, one or all might be able to shorten those cables for you. You can do it yourself too if you have the gumption.
 

Carlo C.

Active Member
If you check around at your local bike shops, one or all might be able to shorten those cables for you. You can do it yourself too if you have the gumption.
Kirby,
Where can you buy the parts and the tools to do it. You know I don’t mind doing it.

Carlo c.
 

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
You have the parts already...everything just needs to be shortened. Cut the ball off of the end of the inner cable. Leave a bit sticking out for yanking.
Then yank the ferrule off of the end of the outer cable. Then carefully shorten the outer cable to your desired length...and replace the ferrule with a touch of glue. You can clean out the ferrule with a drill if needed.
Then yank and drill the remains of the inner cable, out of the ball...or, you can just drill a new hole. Then cut the inner cable to length...with the CORRECT amount of stick-out...solder it into the ball end. DONE.

dratv has a lot of cable stuff...parts and such, if you need them.

OR...again, call your local bike shops. Every bike needs cables.
 
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Robert thran

Well-Known Member
I have this new throttle cable that measures 33 3/4 ..what ends do you need on your clutch cable? The one in pic is aprx 33 1/2 and will adjust out for more but it looks to have stock style k-0 ct70 ends on both sides.
Guys,
I need some help with a few things to finish up the bike I think these tall handle bars have caused me some trouble:

Throttle Cable- Straight Screw in type for aftermarket MX style throttle.
I have 2 cables one is too long 46" and one is too short 31" (That is measuring the outside black sleeve)
33-34" would be perfect. I am willing to buy a complete set with handle. Cable has to be black

Clutch Cable- The one I have is approximately 38" long I probable need one about 34" long.

Hydraulic Line for Disc Brake- The line for my disc brake works, but would be a lot nicer if it was just a couple inches longer. The one I have is approximately 34-1/2" long.

Grab Bar for rear of seat- I am looking for a grab bar that goes behind the seat preferably black, but I will take chrome. I have only seen them on the clone bikes lately. I am not looking for the luggage rack just the single bar.
View attachment 78772

Thanks for any help.
Carlo C
 

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OLD CT

Well-Known Member
The HK0 used a clip on the intake bolt to hold the clutch cable as it is running up to the ''neck clip'' or skid plate mount bolt and then to the bar, that routing is optimal and the ''route'' you should go. ;) Check out some original unmolested HK0 close up pics!
 

Carlo C.

Active Member
I have this new throttle cable that measures 33 3/4 ..what ends do you need on your clutch cable? The one in pic is aprx 33 1/2 and will adjust out for more but it looks to have stock style k-0 ct70 ends on both sides.You have the parts already...everything just needs to be shortened. Cut the ball off of the end of the inner cable. Leave a bit sticking out for yanking.
Then yank the ferrule off of the end of the outer cable. Then carefully shorten the outer cable to your desired length...and replace the ferrule with a touch of glue. You can clean out the ferrule with a drill if needed.
Then yank and drill the remains of the inner cable, out of the ball...or, you can just drill a new hole. Then cut the inner cable to length...with the CORRECT amount of stick-out...solder it into the ball end. DONE.

dratv has a lot of cable stuff...parts and such, if you need them.

OR...again, call your local bike shops. Every bike needs cables.
Guys,
With some help from all of you guys I found all the correct cables on different sites and ordered them. I even found a bunch of options for the hydraulic brake cable on Amazon. I appreciate all the help.

Thanks
Carlo C.
 
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Carlo C.

Active Member
Guys,
I finally got all my cables and brake line worked out on the bike. I even finished all the wiring and wanted to share something that I did that I think is pretty cool and may help others out. Since this bike is not a all original bike you have to figure out how to make stuff work with the combination of parts that you plan on using. I bought the tall handlebars from Trailbuddy and I really like them now that I have everything figured out. I was running out of room on the right side handlebars as I have the throttle and the master cylinder for the disc brake all on the that side. So I still needed to find room for a switch for the High/Low beam and a spot for the horn button. I looked around at all the normal parts places and could not find a all in one switch for the horn and the high and low, but I did find a blinker switch with horn button that TB Parts sells. I ordered one and checked out the way it was wired and figured out a way to make it work. With this switch not only only could I control the high and Low Beam, but I could also use it to turn the headlight off if I desired too. The raised letters on the plastic housing trim right off nice and neat with a new sharp razor blade. I am going to have a small black sticker with white letters made that says High on top Off in the middle and Low on the bottom. Once I figured out the wiring It worked perfect for what I was looking for and the horn button is attached so it worked out perfect. All I had to do was make the correct size holes in the handle bar and it worked like a dream. I am just waiting on a couple more parts from the powder coater and I will post the finished pictures of the bike.

High Low Beam.jpg



Carlo C.
 

Carlo C.

Active Member
Guys,
Bike is finished and I have to say it is the best riding bike that I own. The front forks and rear shocks along with the the tall bars make this bike very adult friendly and I could not be more happy. This bike has quickly become my favorite among the little collection I have. The Nibby Carb was very close to being tuned right out of the box, all I had to do was go a little bigger on the pilot jet and it runs really well. The only thing not on the bike in these pictures is the rear grab bar it should be here any day now. other then that everything works perfect and the bike is really a lot of fun to ride. I have renamed the bike "Silverback".

Started with this:
Black Bike 1.jpg


Finished with this:
Silverback (1).jpg

Silverback (3).jpg

Silverback (5).jpg

Silverback (8).jpg
Silverback (12).jpg

SIlverback (11).jpg
Silverback (14).jpg

Silverback (10).jpg
Silverback (15).jpg






Carlo C.
 
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