3D Printed Fork Spring Guides

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legopro87

New Member
Designed and 3D printed replacement Fork Spring Guides for 25mm oil dampened CT70 forks. I just couldn't find any for a reasonable price and my originals were trashed. The 3D printed ones worked well on my bike so I posted them up on eBay a few weeks back. Sold a few and got positive feedback. If anyone is interested here's a link to the eBay ad. https://www.ebay.com/sch/trail70eng...EFQAAOSw4A9ejPNI&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

If the link doesn't work just search for "3D printed fork spring guides" in eBay. My CT70 is still a work in progress. Not doing a restore so I'm making a bunch of small custom parts. (battery box CDI mount, some non essential bushings and guards.) Most 3D printed and but some not. If you guys have any ideas or know of other plastic bits that are hard to find then let me know.
 
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legopro87

New Member
I mostly print with PLA and PETG. Sometimes Nylon but I really struggle getting nice surfaces with nylon. Anything I make for a motorcycle will most likely be printed with PETG or Nylon depending on function.

Don't think a heat insulator is a good application for FDM 3D printing. It would struggle with the flatness and surface finish needed to provide a good seal. (Could possibly fix that by sanding the faces a bit...) And anything printable will most likely get too soft in use because of the engine heat. Its a cool idea though. I know I keep a bunch of misc insulators laying around for different carbs and intakes. Will look into it.
 
Tripod

Tripod

Well-Known Member
legopro87 said:
I mostly print with PLA and PETG. Sometimes Nylon but I really struggle getting nice surfaces with nylon. Anything I make for a motorcycle will most likely be printed with PETG or Nylon depending on function.

Don't think a heat insulator is a good application for FDM 3D printing. It would struggle with the flatness and surface finish needed to provide a good seal. (Could possibly fix that by sanding the faces a bit...) And anything printable will most likely get too soft in use because of the engine heat. Its a cool idea though. I know I keep a bunch of misc insulators laying around for different carbs and intakes. Will look into it.
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I appreciate it. The insulator for this bike is super wongo and NLA.
 
kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
IMG_20200521_181403386.jpg
legopro87, could you make the outer black housings of these switches? These are ON/OFF Z50 HL switches.
 
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legopro87

New Member
kirrbby said:
View attachment 67518 legopro87, could you make the outer black housings of these switches? These are ON/OFF Z50 HL switches.
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Now that's something I could do. I'm working on something similar now. Blinker mounts that clamp to the fork tubes of a cafe racer build. The function is similar. Though mine probably won't look as nice. It will have that typical layered 3d printed surface finish. Also a quick check on dratv shows you can buy that whole assembly aftermarket for $17. To be honest, that's probably the better way to go.
 
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b52bombardier1

Well-Known Member
My oldest son has satisfactorily 3D printed carb spacer / insulators at higher levels of "fill" for me. This was a copy of the Honda CL100 carb spacer and this *.STL file is out there on Thingaverse somewhere as a stereolithography file. This spacer allowed me to use a China PZ19 carb that is shorter from front to back in the place of a larger original ST90 carburetor. The spacer pushed the opening of the PZ19 carb mouth back far enough that I could use the original ST90 air cleaner.

The trouble with Thingaverse is that your very tedious and detailed work creating the STL file is IMMEDIATELY stolen and offered up by somebody else as a printed part for sale. Thievery and banditry, pure and simple.

Rick
 
kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
legopro87 said:
Now that's something I could do. I'm working on something similar now. Blinker mounts that clamp to the fork tubes of a cafe racer build. The function is similar. Though mine probably won't look as nice. It will have that typical layered 3d printed surface finish. Also a quick check on dratv shows you can buy that whole assembly aftermarket for $17. To be honest, that's probably the better way to go.
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I didn't see that part on dratv. They have the typical high low dimmer switches, marked with H and L. But they don't have one marked ON OFF...Z50 soft tail headlight switch. But if your machine leaves a rough surface, folks might not like them anyway.
 
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b52bombardier1

Well-Known Member
I think my son used that gray "stainless steel" (sort of) material that requires a hotter nozzle and print bed. A different friend (now deceased) may have also done this for me using my son's STL file and the three of us did so much in 3D printing a few years ago that I can't keep the projects separated.

Rick
 
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