Hey Guys - Started a build and thought I'd share it. This CT70 has been sitting in my garage leaking oil for the past 15 years, motor was seized and I was concerned the case/cases were cracked since it had old oil all over the engine and guard. So I pulled the engine, no cracks it just looks like the previous owner had a bad seal and just ran it that way loading up oil all over the lower part of the bike. The piston was seized and took a LOT of persuading to get it free, soaked it for 2 weeks but still had to resort to a hammer. Decided since it's a very original H model going to rebuild the motor/trans back to stock. Everything was in great shape except the jug and piston, will get some new valves, Jug, rings, piston for the top and new clutch discs and guide pins for the trans to start. Here it is as of right now:
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'70 CT70 HK0 build
- Thread starter CMill303
- Start date
Wasn't planning on it as I have 4 of them and 2 look to be in really good condition, I had to buy a complete drum off EBay since the nut stripped off and I can't get it out. Here's a pic let me know what you think?
I said to hell with it and ordered them last night, Northwest had them on sale for $47.50, I've done everything else so need to skimp now. Thanks for the advice and the push!
You did r&r the little seal in the clutch cover, right?With two new forks, you will never have to go back in. Nice work!
Not sure what you mean by r&r but I did put a new seal in behind the clutch actuator plate and a new o ring on the actuator shaft.
JHminitrails
Well-Known Member
Replace the shift fork pins as well. They are usually heavily worn down and will cause excessive side play in the forks.
Remove/replace yes duh should have gotten that one!
Yes I have those already, 1 of my 4 was like new but the other 3 were pretty worn. I didn't get new clips for them was just planning on using the originals as they seem fine.
Cleaned up and lubed the mech advance, this is my 1st 4 spd so never had to mess with this before but it was pretty straight forward. Surprisingly there isn't much info on these out there. Also got a replacement key from EBay and it works perfectly, glad I could keep the original ignition.
I didn't and I couldn't see any difference in it before I took it apart even after I removed it. Since I didn't scribe it is there any other way to know if I have it in there correctly? If it's not in there correctly at least I'll know why it's not working thanks for the info.
I have 2 shift drums is why I have 4, 3 of the 4 I had were worn too much and only 1 was still usable. I ordered 2 new ones and they're just waiting to go in once the new shift forks to get here Monday.
I just went back and looked at my before and after pics, looks like there are 3 wear marks/dots on the cam and it's in the same place it was thankfully!