72HK1 For CJ

Anyone know if these black foam thingy's, that the seat rests on, are factory or add on?

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hornetgod said:
If you PM me the VIN, I can tell you if it had a plastic or steel tank.
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Thanks HG. The VIN has 9/71, so I figured it was a plastic one. The tank supports have the sponge type(they're in excellent shape), not the rubber type like my 3/72K1 does. I thought they did the change over in 10/71 somewhere. I have a good metal tank and bracket(needs painted), just needs a vintage cap. I also have a plastic cap somewhere, but don't know if it functions properly.
 
kirrbby said:
This seller is our own redrider37. This is a good buy for a plastic K1 tank setup. I have a tank for you but no K1 style bracket for it.
1972 Honda CT70 Ct 70 Mini Trail K1 Plastic Gas Tank | eBay

BTW CJ, the early K1's had plastic tanks but most K1's did have metal tanks in them.
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Thanks kirrbby. Martin454(I think) has a bracket. I pretty sure mine had the plastic tank, but waiting for Bill's(Hornetgod) conformation to be sure. I hope it was a metal tank, as I like the caps better.
 
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A plastic tank is what it had. The VIN, Build Date, and Foam Bumpers all confirm this.

According to the Honda Parts Catalog, plastic tanks were used on CT70 100001 to 2040050 and CT70H 100001 to 2017000.

I dug up this picture up when I was rebuilding my 8/71 HK1. You can see the long tank bracket and plastic tank cap.
 
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hornetgod said:
A plastic tank is what it had. The VIN, Build Date, and Foam Bumpers all confirm this.

According to the Honda Parts Catalog, plastic tanks were used on CT70 100001 to 2040050 and CT70H 100001 to 2017000.

I dug up this picture up when I was rebuilding my 8/71 HK1. You can see the long tank bracket and plastic tank cap.
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Thanks HG. I never get sick of seeing those pics of your HK1.lol. Is the plastic tank easier to install and remove than the metal tanks? I ask this because my K1's metal tank is a PITA and the rubber mounts almost always want to come off. Do they hold the same amount of gas?
 
I find that the plastic tanks are slightly easier. I would RTV the pads in place and ensure they dry prior to installing the tank. Make sure the fuel lines are properly marked (reserve and open) prior to the installation too. I tie a length of string to the both hoses first and run it through the frame to help guide the fuel lines as I stuff the tank. A little dab of grease on the tank grommet helps too. Good luck.
 
What is this tiny clip for? I noticed it when I was about to pull the motor. Does it clamp the clutch cable somewhere?

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Found out the piston wasn't stuck after all, just a little stubborn. Going to just need a good honing and the outside, of course, blasting and repaint. Woohoo!(Homer Simpson). The valves are definitely stuck. Can't get them to budge at all. Going to need a guru on this one.lol

Anyone know what chemical to use to get the engine cases squeaky clean? Cases have some oxidation and age/weather staining. Don't want to scratch up the cases with scrubbing if I don't have to.
 
kirrbby said:
That goes on the carb to intake bolt to keep the cable in check.
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Thanks. That makes sense. I thought maybe I didn't notice it fall down when I removed the upper bolts to the engine guard. Wonder why they didn't use that for the brake cable on the early 3speeds.
 
Found a couple of strange things I never thought I'd find.
1. The bottom bolts that hold the footpeg assembly on do not have the "8" on them, but they are the correct size and length and all of them felt torqued equally.
2. The speedo cable is in perfect condition and functional, but the inside spinner cable had absolutely no lube on it. I went ahead and bathed it in grease.
 
cjpayne said:
Found out the piston wasn't stuck after all, just a little stubborn. Going to just need a good honing and the outside, of course, blasting and repaint. Woohoo!(Homer Simpson). The valves are definitely stuck. Can't get them to budge at all. Going to need a guru on this one.lol

Anyone know what chemical to use to get the engine cases squeaky clean? Cases have some oxidation and age/weather staining. Don't want to scratch up the cases with scrubbing if I don't have to.
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Extricating the valves may take more force but, no magic by any means. Odds are good that the guides will clean-up, too. You need new valves, not a big deal. However, I'd take a close look at the rest of the valvetrain...rockers, cam, springs; rust and/or scoring on the contact surfaces of any of those parts means they're bracelet charms (except for the cam, it's big enough to be a paperweight).

OTOH, I think you're a bit optimistic about the cylinder. If the piston was binding due to rust & oxidation, it'll take at least a first OS cut to reach uniformly clean, solid, metal. And the rings are now scored, iron oxide is a tough abrasive. Don't be surprised if it needs to be taken out to second OS, due to a couple of deep pits. Rust pitting is anything but predictable. Since there was enough rust to seize the valves, the cylinder is unlikely to have fared any better...unless the piston was at TDC. The rust sez that it wasn't.

As for cleaning the case halves, there are only two options if you wish to preserve what remains of the as-cast surface...chemical cleaning and soft media blasting. Sodium hydroxide (caustic soda), as found in oven cleaner, can do a pretty good job. It's a messy task. You'll want to remove the tranny bearings and use a nylon bristle scrub brush. Work quickly & rinse thoroughly and you should get a nice, bright, surface with most of what remains of the original surface largely left intact.Soft media blasting is quicker & cleaner but, the process is more specialized & riskier. Both processes have their pluses & minuses. Neither can restore damaged surfaces. Any pitting/oxidation etching will remain, with either process. Once the original surface is gone, it's gone, regardless of the cause..."can't make chicken salad from chickens**t". NaOH tends to leave behind a shinier-than-original surface but is accessible to the average DIYer. Soft media blasting can be gentler on the metal, depending on operator skill, but is harder to come by and costs more.
 
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