72HK1 For CJ

IDK, CJ...that's about what a top flight CT70, of this vintage, brings circa 2019. Still, that sum doesn't buy much in the way of groceries these days and once it's gone, it's gone. You already lost this bike once and were lucky enough to get it back. How'd those events feel? Not that you asked, I'll say it anyway...one prize possession, something that you really enjoy...isn't much to ask from life, especially one that ties-up a modest amount of cash. $5600 isn't enough to buy a decent, beater, car anymore. This is your own, personal, "once-in-a-lifetime" bike. If you let it go, I seriously doubt that lighting will strike a 3rd time.
 
Boy that is some good coin! I really dont know your financial situation. But when I was between jobs I was along ways from selling my CT's. So with that said I would be keeping it for sure! You really will be hard pressed to find one that nice in original condition for 2500-3000 most have bolted on replacement parts.
 
You still have all the parts and a painted candy yellow frame to build:monkey: that everyone donated so you weren’t so heartbroken because of hard times, or did you have sell all that stuff?:(
 
Last edited:
OLD CT said:
You still have all the parts and a painted candy yellow frame to build:monkey: that everyone donated so you weren’t so heartbroken because of hard times, or did you have sell all that stuff?:(
Click to expand...
No, that stuff is still all here. All it really needs is fork tube assemblies.
 
cjpayne said:
Well, its 1am here. The guy never showed. Kinda glad he didn't, but I hate being BS'd.
Click to expand...

Perhaps you're being gently tapped on the shoulder.:unsure:

All things considered, it makes more sense to complete that other bike then sell it, freshly restored, and keep your red bike. IMHO, that still honors the intent of the assistance you received...only you get to keep the one you really wanted in the first place.
 
racerx said:
Perhaps you're being gently tapped on the shoulder.

All things considered, it makes more sense to complete that other bike then sell it, freshly restored, and keep your red bike. IMHO, that still honors the intent of the assistance you received...only you get to keep the one you really wanted in the first place.
Click to expand...
I've actually had a few serious offers on that potluck bike, but I just couldn't bring myself to do that since alot of people here did that for me. I would like to finish that bike, but it still needs some more items than just the fork tubes. I think I just need to take a deep breath and think about things more seriously, instead of panicking and making rash decisions. Being off work too long makes me to start going nuts.
 
A few (several) years back I predicted that CT70's market would eventually hit the $5K mark. And did i know what I was Talking about?
Hell no! ......:rolleyes::D

But A Ruby Red 71' HK1 is a prized possession !

Seems to me in this economy, finding another Job is a Hell of a lot easier than finding another Ruby Red 71' HK1!.:D
 
Adam-NLV said:
Seems to me in this economy, finding another Job is a Hell of a lot easier than finding another Ruby Red 71' HK1!.:D
Click to expand...
The reason(s) why the company I was working for went down is because of tons of gross mismanagement, laziness, and SHEAR apathy. I've never seen a company so internally messed up.
 
Seems like the perfect time to get building the yellow bike with all the free time on your hands. Lots of members here want to see it finished. Myself included.
 
Hey guys. This bike has developed, or maybe its becoming noticable now, a strange rattling noise in the timing chain area. I really started noticing it the last time I took it out for some backroading. With the engine just at over 2Kmiles, I figured it was the timing chain needs adjusted. Its making the noise in the mid to upper rpm range, but not at idle or just above. I warmed it up and went to adjusting. It was a little loose and when adjusted, the idle went up just a tad. I tested it and the noise is still there. I put my hand on everything I could to try and find it. I even put my foot on the exhaust guards. Im gonna go out after I post this and see if the jug idler wheel bolt has worked loose. Any other ideas???
 
I'd look for stardust in the oil. If the timing chain is making contact with the case or cylinder tunnel it will generate metallic debris...rapidly. A lot of it will get trapped on the oil spinner but draining the oil is a lot easier.

Next, I'd want to verify chain tension. Most accurate way to set the adjustment is with the stator off of the engine but, that's only easy before the engine is completely assembled. As an alternative, pull the round cam cover...then see what you can discover with a long, thin, screwdriver and a bright light.

Still no luck, you might want to pull the flywheel & stator, for a look inside. A failed timing chain is unlikely, with an OEM chain. However, there are soft, polymer, parts: roller, idler, tensioner cap that could have been chewed, very quickly, if the chain was run too loose.

The noise may not be related to the cam drive at all. But...it's the logical place to look first.
 
racerx said:
I'd look for stardust in the oil. If the timing chain is making contact with the case or cylinder tunnel it will generate metallic debris...rapidly. A lot of it will get trapped on the oil spinner but draining the oil is a lot easier.

Next, I'd want to verify chain tension. Most accurate way to set the adjustment is with the stator off of the engine but, that's only easy before the engine is completely assembled. As an alternative, pull the round cam cover...then see what you can discover with a long, thin, screwdriver and a bright light.

Still no luck, you might want to pull the flywheel & stator, for a look inside. A failed timing chain is unlikely, with an OEM chain. However, there are soft, polymer, parts: roller, idler, tensioner cap that could have been chewed, very quickly, if the chain was run too loose.

The noise may not be related to the cam drive at all. But...it's the logical place to look first.
Click to expand...
Yeah it does have the D.I.D. OEM chain, but I think I will go ahead and take the stator out and cam cover and have a look after I check the oil. The oil has maybe 100miles on it. Looks like she will be grounded for awhile.lol. I would really like to go ahead and replace the OEM chain while I'm in there too.
Luckily I just started working again last week, but wont be paid for awhile, so that should give me enough time to look into things.
The only wore out/out of adjustment chains I can recall hearing were ones that rattled around at idle or higher, but not like this one's doing. I checked the valves not too long ago and they were dead on where I left them, but I will recheck. I'm kind of wondering, if possibly, the cam gear has come loose. Did any of the latter year bikes have a bolt locker on the cam gear, like the back sprocket of a hardtail Z50?
 
You do check the oil as it drains, as part of normal maintenance & inspection, right? If there wasn't any stardust in the oil, when last drained then: no stardust now should be a very positive sign or, lots of it, all of a sudden, means you're catching a mechanical problem early.

Checking for a loosened cam bolt is the easiest diagnostic of all. Pull the cover, it's right there. I've only seen them back-out one time...on a freshly rebuilt engine; they hadn't been tightened beyond finger-tight. From what I was told, that whole episode took less than 60 seconds, creating an awful racket. It also turned the inside of the engine into a snow globe. That one was completely torn down, to do the cleanup. Happily, now real damage was done. The cam cover was scarred, but not really damaged. And, since aluminum is softer than any of the moving parts, nothing was scarred or scored.

I've seen lockplates used on cam sprocket bolts. But I don't recall seeing one used on a CT70 engine. Between the ultra-fine thread, small diameter/long threaded length, light-interference fit (ever try spinning those bolts into place with just your fingertips?), and torque applied by normal valvetrain operation, once torqued, those bolts tend to remain tight. Put another way, if there was an inherent problem with them backing-out, Honda would've made a running change to correct it. If yours, somehow, managed to "go rogue", then I'd use blue Loctite...same as we do with the shift star fixing bolt...to help their attitude.
 
Yes, I do check the oil in this bike just like I do my cars. Didn't notice anything abnormal last time.
Thinking the problem might be the cam bolts was just somthing I thought of since tightening the T-chain didn't cure the problem. Maybe I didn't tighten/adjust it enough? Who knows...
I'll try to get in there this weekend. If I can't find anything wrong, I'll try readjusting the T-chain and checking the valve lash again.
 
Back
Top