Can 1983 CT110 kill switch be cleaned internally?

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xrrevin

New Member
In checking the right handlebar kill switch with an ohm meter on the Black/white and Green wires, it showed

1. direct ground in one of two "kill" positions
2. infinity in "run" position
3. infinity in 2nd "kill" position

It appears there are not direct replacements for these, so I'd rather not destroy this one. I'm checking to see if there is a way to "clean" the internal contacts and possibly get it to work as it should? (this is OEM on CDI style bike)

If you've had success in working with one of these, I'd appreciate any info.

Thanks,

Joe
 
I would never suggest taking one of these switches apart. There are tiny springs that will launch themselves to places where you will never find them.

However, I have recovered the kill switch on my Mighty Green 73 ST90 through the liberal use of some "Caig's DeOxit D5" electronic contact cleaner - combined with compressed shop air. Vigorously actuate the switches while using the little red straw on the can nozzle to direct the spray. Some of these handlebar switches have tiny access holes. Actuate, apply air, apply the Caig's fluid, repeat . . . repeat . . . repeat. And cross your fingers.

Of course, if there's an internal broken wire . . . .

CAIG DeoxIT Pot & Switch Cleaner - StewMac

One-step spray for cleaning and quieting noisy pots and switches in guitars and amps.
www.stewmac.com www.stewmac.com

Rick
 
Thank you very much for your insight and response. I will be trying your suggestion today and happy to be able to keep the switch mechanism in place while cleaning and testing.

You have most assuredly prevented a "what the heck was that and where did it go" series of moments for me!!

I'm trying to track down a "weak spark" condition and hopefully, just maybe some electricity bleeds off through dirty contacts in this switch as well as being a safety concern.

Will update process results.

By the way, B52's have quite a few switches, don't they?


Thanks again,

Joe
 
That deoxit is some good stuff. I havent checked to see if the atc110 kill switch is rebuildable but i bet it is.

For the weak spark, have you checked the air gap on the cdi pickup? Should be about .010 to .012. Check it with a brass feeler.
 
OK, I'm back with results, 1st I should say '83 CT110 was brought to me somewhat all apart and I was asked to reassemble and get it running. I accepted even though I had never driven one or worked on one before. so, word of the day is "learning curve".
1. when 1st opening right handlebar switch case, it probably hadn't been opened since leaving the dealer.
2. I could see the yellow bar and contact point the wires were soldered to, but the rest of the area around these looked to be filled in with
epoxy, so bottom of switch would be fully sealed
3. following your instructions, spraying D5 and multiple short air blasts, while working the switch--lo and behold, I saw the switch assembly
was open from the bottom and easily cleaned out with no problems
4. switch lever became easy to work, put ohm meter on B/W and Green wires--cleaned contacts until ohms read less than 1 ohm in both
"kill" positions and "run" stayed at infinity
5. it does it's job as designed, now

again, thanks for your help passing on your knowledge


I have another question, if anyone has run into this situation before:

I'm wondering if one of the coils now commonly available on ebay, which have the magnetic core thru the center with slotted mounting holes would fit the OEM '83 CT110 "C" shaped bracket which has the 2 studs that pass thru the chassis and are "nutted" under the seat?? I asked because DRATV has the replacement coil for this machine at around $150 and I know some of these ebay coils are for CDI ignitions and only have one wire pigtails which go to the CDI trigger module?? PS- 6 Volt ignition on '83

Thanks

Joe
 
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