Candy Ruby Red perfect match

[69ST]

Eldorado made the best K1 repro cover, dead-nuts accurate right down to the heat-pressed seam detail and stitched lower edge (the portion that extends past the pan barbs). Those covers also cost more than a new, OEM, Honda seat. Since they went on the NLA list in 2009, it's little more than a discussion topic. And, there's still the same unresolved issue, regardless of who's cover is selected...the foam itself. I've yet to see anyone get that right.

Sometimes, the best cover is one that you can actually get. Of what's currently available, the two shown in this thread are about as good as it gets. Yes, you could pick them apart on details; it could even be argued that the logo-less cover allows the installer the option to place a stencil (for use with use vinyl dye) in whatever vertical position is considered "most correct". That said, there just aren't many K1 repop covers on the market and some are awful. These two, at the very least, are safe bets - affordable, too.

If time & money are no object, it's possible to recreate a perfect K1 cover & foam set, same as any other man-made parts. "Possible" exists independently of "practical" and "affordable".

 

[bc17a]

Finally got a good day with no wind and shot the clear on a few parts. Came out real nice, the camera does not do the color justice. I'm happy with the results

 

[hornetgod]

It looks beautiful!

 

[DFull]

Looks like a professional paint job.:clap2:

 

[13andFreedom]

"The silver is BGM0508 Ultra Silver Metallic and the red is BGM0509 Dark Cherry Metallic (3 light coats)."

I tried this color recipe today. I made a sample and compared it to an area under the rear fender that was never exposed. It looks surprisingly good - almost perfect

The Duplicolor Paint Match aerosol is so thin, that it acts like a tinted clear coat over the silver base. I then tested with duplicolor clear over the color base. Looks really good.

But, I plan on using a clear aerosol with a built-in catalyst: USC Spraymax® 2k Glamour High Gloss Aerosol Clear Part # Usc-3680061.

Earlier today I read that originally the ct70s did not have consistent candy color due to either different paint by batch or the person spraying the paint. So it would seem that there is not a perfect color to be had.

I also created a Sapphire blue, but I'm not sure if it's close - I need to remove the fender on the other bike. I have two carcass bikes - one red, the other blue.

Thanks bc17a for the color recipe nice work!

 

[red69]

I am happy with the color match also, and in addition, is a very economical (cheap!) alternative to having a store mix it for you.

We had storms move through central Florida very early this morning. After the skies cleared I sprayed two shock caps with Ultra Silver and topped that with Dark (not very) Cherry Metallic. True to form, the acrylic lacquer blushed, although the humidity was at 60%. I've sprayed lacquer at higher humidity percentages before with better results. The solvent in the spray can may be a fast flash-off type. The top coat blushed, which is what happens when humidity gets in the way of drying. After scratching my head, I realized that I have a quart of Dupont Acrylic Lacquer Retarder made for such problems. Usually I cut some slow lacquer thinner with about 20% retarder and spray over the area that was previously painted. I didn't have any thinner so I used straight retarder in a cheap Harbor Freight air brush ($10). Job done! Blushing is gone.

If any of you have a problem with humidity, don't be afraid to mist the paint with retarder. Just go easy, as it may run if you lay it on too heavy. Again, I'm very satisfied with the color match.

 

[robbie]

I must be really tired or dumb, so forgiveness please...

Are you painting the part silver first, then red over? Or putting the red over the silver while that coat is still wet? Would love to try this on my swingarm!

Thanks!!!

 

[bc17a]

Yes, silver first, let it flash (10-15 minutes) before red goes down.

 

[red69]

I actually waited about an hour before I applied the red over silver. You should still be able to get a good chemical bond without having to sand it for a mechanical bond.

 

[CT70 K0]

I also created a Sapphire blue, but I'm not sure if it's close - I need to remove the fender on the other bike. I have two carcass bikes - one red, the other blue.

Have you been able to see if the sapphire blue was dead on or not ?
I am currently doing touch up paint on my sapphire blue CT and I am very interested about your trial with that color.

Please share if you have made a try and post pics if you can.

Thanks.

 

[bc17a]

Lacquer is not too picky on the flash times when spraying but when I used to brush it on the model airplanes I had to wait a day or more when changing colors or the thinner would reactivate the bottom color and make a mess.

 

[red69]

bc, are you talking about lacquer or nitrate dope on model airplanes?

Lacquer flashes off must faster than the current versions of paint. Flash times of lacquer vary, depending on the grade of thinner used. In warm weather slow thinners are used to ward off blush caused by high humidity and fast flash off caused by high temperatures. I found that with a slower thinner, the finish was better (glossier) because it flowed out. Slow thinner has to be handled with care so that the paint does not run on application. It's usually used on topcoats. Pressure at the gun, fluid volume and spray pattern all affect the final finish. Of course you could spend your time color sanding and buffing afterward.

The upside of fast flash off is the ability of being able to sand a bad area for re-coating much sooner. Another drawback of lacquer is that it has a tendency to chip due to its hardness. Enamel is much more forgiving in that area.

 

[bc17a]

bc, are you talking about lacquer or nitrate dope on model airplanes?

Lacquer flashes off must faster than the current versions of paint. Flash times of lacquer vary, depending on the grade of thinner used. In warm weather slow thinners are used to ward off blush caused by high humidity and fast flash off caused by high temperatures. I found that with a slower thinner, the finish was better (glossier) because it flowed out. Slow thinner has to be handled with care so that the paint does not run on application. It's usually used on topcoats. Pressure at the gun, fluid volume and spray pattern all affect the final finish. Of course you could spend your time color sanding and buffing afterward.



The upside of fast flash off is the ability of being able to sand a bad area for re-coating much sooner. Another drawback of lacquer is that it has a tendency to chip due to its hardness. Enamel is much more forgiving in that area.

I'm strictly talking recoat of the red over the silver. We're using cans here so the temp/humidity control is up to the guy painting, no retarder possible and Duplicolor will flash pretty quickly.

 

[red69]

BC, you can shoot retarder after using the canned Duplicolor if it needs it. I used the can and had to drop some retarder on it to overcome the blushing. I'm in Florida, humidity kingdom.

 

[CT70 K0]

Hello,
I saw early into the thread that you were also planning to try to paint a sapphire candy blue CT.
Have you been able to test and validate color match. I am interested about that.

Thanks, Jerome.

 

[bc17a]

BC, you can shoot retarder after using the canned Duplicolor if it needs it. I used the can and had to drop some retarder on it to overcome the blushing. I'm in Florida, humidity kingdom.

This is why we used to paint our planes indoors, or was it for the high? :zonked: The good ol days huh? Does Duplicolor have retarder in a can? I've always used it in place of thinner.

Hello,
I saw early into the thread that you were also planning to try to paint a sapphire candy blue CT.
Have you been able to test and validate color match. I am interested about that.

Thanks, Jerome.

Haven't tried to find a match for CSB in a can but some others on here have had good luck with Duplicolor Metalcast. Metalcast is transparent so you might have to test several base colors and experiment with the number of midcoats (blue) but with a little patience I bet you'd come real close. http://www.duplicolor.com/product/metalcast-anodized-automotive-paint

 

[red69]

This is why we used to paint our planes indoors, or was it for the high? :zonked: The good ol days huh? Does Duplicolor have retarder in a can? I've always used it in place of thinner.

I haven't checked to see if they do, but I suspect not. Generally, retarder is mixed with topcoats up to 10%. I have used it at about 20% with thinner and recently shot it full strength over flashed paint to alleviate blushing.

 

[CT70 K0]

This is why we used to paint our planes indoors, or was it for the high? :zonked: The good ol days huh? Does Duplicolor have retarder in a can? I've always used it in place of thinner.



Haven't tried to find a match for CSB in a can but some others on here have had good luck with Duplicolor Metalcast. Metalcast is transparent so you might have to test several base colors and experiment with the number of midcoats (blue) but with a little patience I bet you'd come real close. http://www.duplicolor.com/product/metalcast-anodized-automotive-paint

Thanks for reply I am going to check the blue metalcast can.
as base coat I already have few onces from Color Rite which is supposed to be perfect match.
I will provide feedback from my trial.

 

[CT70 K0]

Thanks for reply I am going to check the blue metalcast can.
as base coat I already have few onces from Color Rite which is supposed to be perfect match.
I will provide feedback from my trial.

Here are some results form the paint I did this weekend by using duplicolor product:
Base coat: BGM0508 Ultra Silver
Candy blue: Metalcast blue
and 2 layer of clear coat. I am planing to sand the surfaces again and put 2 additional clear coat layers.

I only painted the inside of the swing harm:


and the back of the body:
To make sure to keep the original effect I made sur to not overspray the full area and kept lighter portion with some silver color.

 

[Waveraider]

That blue turned out real nice. Do you have a thread going about your build?