Chinese engine mileage log
- Thread starter kenfyoozed
- Start date
Do yourself a big favor and prep it for storage. Drain the oil, while the engine is still at least fairly warm, then clean-out the oil spinner and refill the crankcase with clean oil. This is key to getting maximum service life, from any of these engines.
Next, drain the fuel system, completely and clean the filter screen + float bowl. A light spray of fogging oil inside the tank (plus closing the cap vent) will keep rust from forming on the tank walls.
Lastly, rotate the crank until you feel compression; this means that both valves are closed - sealing the combustion chamber.
Beyond that, a quick smear of automotive paste wax does a good job of keeping surface rust at bay. Leave the excess wax "haze". Come spring spring, a quick rubdown with a polishing cloth gets you right back where you were at the end of the last riding season...running & looking just as it was.
Next, drain the fuel system, completely and clean the filter screen + float bowl. A light spray of fogging oil inside the tank (plus closing the cap vent) will keep rust from forming on the tank walls.
Lastly, rotate the crank until you feel compression; this means that both valves are closed - sealing the combustion chamber.
Beyond that, a quick smear of automotive paste wax does a good job of keeping surface rust at bay. Leave the excess wax "haze". Come spring spring, a quick rubdown with a polishing cloth gets you right back where you were at the end of the last riding season...running & looking just as it was.
thefox
Member
Mine is up to 1,330. No issues with the motor, I will have to pull the carb sometime because sometimes the carb will overflow if I leave it part without shutting off the gas.
I did have to replace the swingarm pivot bolt at the start of the season, the stock one sheard off at the nut as I was crusing at 35mph!:43:
I did have to replace the swingarm pivot bolt at the start of the season, the stock one sheard off at the nut as I was crusing at 35mph!:43:
Attachments
Rolled over to 8700 today
still have to put the rubber gaskets in the intake by the carb to seal the air leak.
FUEL
top of the gas tank is leaking again... getting real bad gas mileage
chassis
NEED to do paint the primer blue...
ELECTRICAL
The bike still wont turn off after I switched off the ignition
but hey its great to have her back!
still have to put the rubber gaskets in the intake by the carb to seal the air leak.
FUEL
top of the gas tank is leaking again... getting real bad gas mileage
chassis
NEED to do paint the primer blue...
ELECTRICAL
The bike still wont turn off after I switched off the ignition
but hey its great to have her back!
8800
Rolled over to 8800 miles yesterday.
This thing keeps losing nuts and bolts:
The right bolt on the battery holder came loose and flew off.
And one of the threads in the exhaust is loose and the screw is loose (but hasn;t fallen off the exhaust yet)
Still have to do all the things I mentioned at 8700miles....
Seems like I have less time to work on and ride her....
Rolled over to 8800 miles yesterday.
This thing keeps losing nuts and bolts:
The right bolt on the battery holder came loose and flew off.
And one of the threads in the exhaust is loose and the screw is loose (but hasn;t fallen off the exhaust yet)
Still have to do all the things I mentioned at 8700miles....
Seems like I have less time to work on and ride her....
placek59
Member
I know this is a really old thread, but does anyone have any updates? I have a Lifan in an offroad only ct70 and have been running it pretty hard for almost 10 years. It's getting a little tougher to start after it's been sitting for a long period, but still runs good. Not sure on the mileage. Maybe 1000 total, but those are hard miles in tight trails with lots of shifting.
Last I heard, the engine referenced in the post above yours was limping along. That's probably why #309 "was all she wrote". Highest documented mileage for a Lifan has been ~6000 and there wasn't much left before catastrophic failure. Most common wear points have been shift forks, gears, and bearings. For reasons unknown, a number of them have seeped & blown pressurized oil past head gaskets and oil seals. There have also been sporadic episodes of clutch failure, when the rubber dampers (used in place of more costly springs) disintegrate. There's also been the occasional broken crankshaft and loose spanner nut....which may be cause & effect.
That said, as long as you've kept on top of oil changes & spinner cleanings, run a decent airfilter and not overheated/hotspotted it, there ought to be a lot of miles left in yours. If any sudden failures were looming, as listed above, you'd most likely have seen & recognized warning signs long before now. It's the mileage, not the years, that are limited...compared to OEM. The hard starting, most likely, is a carburetor issue.
That said, as long as you've kept on top of oil changes & spinner cleanings, run a decent airfilter and not overheated/hotspotted it, there ought to be a lot of miles left in yours. If any sudden failures were looming, as listed above, you'd most likely have seen & recognized warning signs long before now. It's the mileage, not the years, that are limited...compared to OEM. The hard starting, most likely, is a carburetor issue.
fatcaaat
Well-Known Member
I received some information from someone that they have now been running a Daytona FDX190 now for over 10000 miles. They had an ignition failure and had to replace the Stator/Flywheel and the CDI box (as they are not interchangeable) and they have had to adjust the valve lash a few times (which may indicate that the valves are cupping) but the engine hasn't been apart and is not burning oil and otherwise is running great.
I have also finally got an opportunity to ride one and was very impressed with it on a street machine. It is, without doubt, as fast as my TJR176+r nice engine but delivers the power differently. The Daytona is a square motor whereas the Nice is a undersquare. I personally prefer the power delivery of my Nice engine, however when you get that daytona up above 7k, hang on! I hear, also, that the stock daytona cam is very tame.
Honestly, if I were going to build another bike and needed a powerplant I'd use on the street, I'd go with one of these Daytona's without a doubt.
I have also finally got an opportunity to ride one and was very impressed with it on a street machine. It is, without doubt, as fast as my TJR176+r nice engine but delivers the power differently. The Daytona is a square motor whereas the Nice is a undersquare. I personally prefer the power delivery of my Nice engine, however when you get that daytona up above 7k, hang on! I hear, also, that the stock daytona cam is very tame.
Honestly, if I were going to build another bike and needed a powerplant I'd use on the street, I'd go with one of these Daytona's without a doubt.
placek59
Member
Thanks for the info guys - I have a new Lifan sitting in the box, still waiting for a project and was just curious. To me, that is cheap fun, and I wouldn't be able to put more than maybe 500 miles a year on a little street machine. I would like to step up to a big Daytona but just can't justify it right now. Maybe in 5 years (if I'm lucky) when the Lifan gives out I'll go with something bigger and better!
Drew
Member
Love my Piranha 140,except for the fact it kicks like a mule.I found using a squirt of starting fluid makes it ALOT easier to start.I have 800 plus hard miles on my engine and it runs perfect.
Drew
Member
I watched a video made in China or Asia and I was just wanting to see what he was doing to the scooter motor nd got a glance at the speedo which read 23,000 kms
kirrbby
Well-Known Member
Maybe Fatcaaat will chime in here... But I think 18 tooth sprockets work on the Honda engines with some minor milling.
Or...the chain will mill space for itself if you were to bolt it on and go.
Fatcaaat has run sprockets as large as 19t on the countershaft. I've gone as big as 18t. Those were on Honda Nice motors and even then the fit is not what I'd call optimal. With 49c-based engines, I'm not thrilled going bigger than 16t. With the Chinese stuff, it depends upon the architecture of the specific unit. For all I know, the big Daytona lumps may have a lot more clearance. Be aware that there is an optimal size range, at both ends...C/S & wheel. 15t, minimum, is beneficial in terms of chain life, also adds some swingarm clearance up front...at the cost of chainguard & engine clearance. You may have to cut the chain guard.
No milling needed, on the Nice/Wave motors. The neutral switch is precariously close to the chain. And, if a chain ever broke, the results could be a Katrina-like disaster.
No milling needed, on the Nice/Wave motors. The neutral switch is precariously close to the chain. And, if a chain ever broke, the results could be a Katrina-like disaster.
Drew
Member
Putting the 18 tooth on. YX-140 engine"hopefully" it fits.edited 7/22 it fits the YX-140 with just ALITTLE grinding on the top of the stator/ counter sprocket cover at the top,or you can move the cover slightly up in the rear about 2mm and tighten bolts,this will keep the chain from rubbing on it.
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Drew
Member
Didn't know where I should post this and I'm sure there are people that will differ with me.The Chinese Lifan and YX - Piranha engines are just as good and dependable as the Honda horizontal engines.I ran my Lifan 125 very hard after 100 mile break in,and went wide open daily with it for up to 4 miles straight.Now running a Piranha 140 engine that runs great,just don't like starting it cold.