CT70 Fork - front wheel - will not line up

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bjf

Member
I had an older post about this but starting a new one so apologies about that. I have taken this wheel on and off 50 times. I have rebuilt the fork a zillion times and for whatever reason I can not get the spacing correct.

The fork is totally off center.

I checked the bearings and they are seated correctly and all the way in.

What am I missing? This is killing me.
 

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hrc200x

hrc200x

Active Member
If you stand back a take a picture directly from the center and get all of the front tire, fender, and headlight in the picture does the top of the tire look like its leaning toward the left? I believe there were different collars that fit inside the seal as fork designs changed over the years. Do the painted part of the forks look strait, have seen them bend before.
 
motodevo

motodevo

Active Member
What side of the wheel is your tube valve on, if they are like z50 split rims then the halves are different widths. My manual shows the tube valve should be on the brake side of the rim.
 

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kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
https://lilhonda.com/index.php?threads/what-am-i-doing-wrong-ct70-fork-and-wheel.21132/#post-164963

Since in your first thread about this you DID find that your inner leg/springs were different lengths...AND your issue looks like they may STILL be different lengths, that is my first thought.
If you remove the wheel, and stand the bike on the forks, does it stand straight?? Are you SURE they're the same length now??

Could your axle be too long? A K1 up axle will not work on a K0.

Is your triple tree straight?? The painted part of your front forks...triple tree. Measure between the triple tree legs top and bottom to see if they're parallel. Then sight across both legs, looking from the side of the bike to make sure they're parallel...or use 2 straight edges layed against the front of the triple, one top, one bottom, then sight across the straight edges. This is to see if one side angles farther forward than the other.

Typically, if all is well, you mount the wheel with NO weight on the front of the bike. When you tighten the axle...with the wheel straight and centered, the axle locks it in place and squares everything up. So if you removed the inner legs and springs from the triple tree, then bolted them on to the wheel, torque the axle, then stand it up. Everything should be straight and parallel, centered, and square, AND, both sides the same height.

At that point, theoretically, you can see how it all looks when it's installed, and should be able to actually install it into the triple tree and have it STAY straight, centered etc.
 
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kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
More pics can only help. Pics of everything. Top clamp, fork inner legs and springs if you pull them back out again, inside of wheel hub to show the bearing, other bearing too, inside of brake plate might show a problem. Measure the axle.

If you have to take this thing apart again, take advantage of the opportunity to take a buttload of pics of everything, so you can post them all up if needed.
 
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bjf

Member
I will get more pics.

Some info on the bike.

Legs of fork are original to to the bike. I had them rechromed. One spring is new as is the pieces it threads in to. When this problem started I pulled the legs out and saw one looked slightly longer so I tighted the ends of the spring and that fixed it before I put it back together.

As for the wheel. It is original as is the center spacer. I did add new bearings, seals, and the brake and cover.

Looking at pics of bikes on ebay I jsut saw one where the valve stem is on the brake side. I have mine on the other side. Does that matter with this bike? If so I feel really dumb.

After I get confirmation its not the valve and how I built the wheel I will pull it all apart and take pics. I had thought it was the springs and the lengths but with the axle in place and the simplicity of the springs I thought it would force it square as well.

Will check ad appreciate all the help.

Thanks
 
6

69ST

Well-Known Member
No, the valve stem should go on the righthand side, if only for ease of access.

Wild thought of the moment...pull the inner fork legs, install the wheel assembly & snug-up the axle nut. Is the wheel centered now?
 
kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
100% sure, the valve stem goes on the opposite side as the brake plate in the front, and same side as the brake plate in the back. Right side of bike, both. I'm 99% sure that the wheel halves are 2 different thicknesses/widths. So it DOES matter.
But with your problem, it doesn't look like the wheel is off center, it looks like it's leaning.

If you have a opportunity, maybe check the spring action of each leg independently with the wheel removed and the springs still in the triple tree. See if one is hanging up, or softer, etc.
 
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bjf

Member
I did have more trouble getting one leg up and to seat properly. Again not sure why as all this stuff was together before. One other question. On the non brake side, should the weep hole be on the outside or inside of the fork?
 
kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
I'm throwing out all my thoughts.

Been looking back at all of your pics. The long spacer on the right side looks funky to me in your pics...first thread. It doesn't look like it's inside of the seal, seated against the bearing. It looks too long.

Is the bead seated evenly all the way around the wheel/tire...both sides.

The brake plate is aftermarket? I'm wondering if the welded on peg, that fits into the groove on the brake plate, is pushing the wheel when you tighten the axle..? As if the peg is too long. Or the brake plate is made wrong.
 
kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
Weep hole on the inside, not to show.

The problem with putting the legs into the triple tree last...as a unit. The little nubs at the very top never line up just right and you'll end up breaking them off when you tighten down the handlebar clamp/top triple tree clamp. Maybe just bolt the legs to the wheel for a look...for any obvious problems. If you do put it into the triple, don't tighten the top bolts.
 
kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
Looking at one of my bikes, your long spacer doesn't look so long anymore. But look at where the peg sits in the hub. It doesn't touch at all on the end.

IMG_20170821_163641976.jpg
IMG_20170821_163655891.jpg
 
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bjf

Member
The brake cover is from CHP. Looking at your pics compared to mine, the peg seems in the same position with no extra room to go deeper. I will say the peg was a bitch to get in that cover. I thought maybe my chroming made it thicker but not so sure. I had to grind a bit of the paint on the cover to get it to fit.

I will take a bunch of pictures tonight with the bike on a jack so the wheel isn't leaning in them
 
B

bjf

Member
So I pulled the wheel again. Fork legs are the same length. Axle is straight. Bearings fully seated. What am I missing here?
 

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scooter

scooter

Well-Known Member
I like Racerx's suggestion - pull the forks from the bike, tighten the axle, check for ease of spin. How does the spacing of the tubes compare with the width of the tree that they need to slide into?

My thought is that if the tube separation is to wide at the axle the only way for the two tubes to go into the tree and remain parallel is for the axle to try and rotate. Which is your symptom.

Try this - remove the tubes from the tree, tighten the axle, and roll the wheel between the tree to the point where they are about to touch. Is the gap tube to tube at the axle end the same as the center line to centerline on tree?
 
kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
I'm lookin at the witness marks in the groove on that brake plate. I think that's the problem.

I see now...you did some grinding on it. Still, That might be where the problem is. Needs more grinding. There is no reason that peg needs to be tight in there.
 
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bjf

Member
The only issue with grinding is if you look there doesn't seem to be much room left for the peg to go. It is almost bottoming out. Do you think that could be it? Do I grind the sides or should I also grind where it will bottom out?
 
kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
I just checked my bike, the one I pictured earlier. The peg is not touching the brake plate at all. I could slip a .004" feeler gauge all the way in on both sides. On the back side, or end of the peg, there is a much bigger gap.

That is...wheel installed, centered, axle torqued.
 
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bjf

Member
I will try to grind it a bit more and see if that helps. I do not think the chrming on my fork legs is too thick. The shop was careful and every bolt on the things they chromed thread in easily. I could not get an original cover so I bought this after market one from CHP figuring the quality would be good. I wonder if because this side is not fitting its pulling the other leg in more. Not sure. It seems when I tighten the wheel it pulls the peg in tight. Not sure how much more room it would have. Will report when I grind the cover a bit more.
 
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