CT70 Heavy Fork Springs

Discussion in 'General' started by ArcticMinibike, Jan 8, 2018.

  1. Gary

    Gary Active Member

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    Never owning a mini with actual hydraulic forks how similar were/are they to the bigger bikes of the day? I put DG air caps on my CR 250 back in the day. They replaced the springs completely. They seemed to do the job then when there was no other options. Any thoughts?
     
  2. racerx

    racerx Administrator
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    IMO, suspension technology was primitive in that era; we are talking about designs that are nearing the half-century mark. That said, tall-tire machines were okay. The early hydraulic forks were a big improvement over springers & pogo sticks. Properly setup & tuned, CT70 K1-79 forks are surprisingly good...vastly superior to K0 pogo sticks.

    For the dedicated K0 enthusiast who still wants something better, there are hydraulic cartridges that retain the outwardly stock appearance.
     
  3. racerx

    racerx Administrator
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    In scientific terms, you're on-the-mark...unequal vectors will create a lateral torque load that wouldn't exist if both sides had the same springs. That said, the amount of torque should be relatively minimal. K1-style fork legs have wide axle flanges to spread the load. Just keep the axle properly torqued and you should be fine.
     
  4. CT70_Scotts

    CT70_Scotts Member

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  5. OLD CT

    OLD CT Well-Known Member

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    Yes, the springs will work on a K1. You may have to only use 1 new spring and one original, if you get a topping out noise.
    They are ''heavier duty'' than the originals and taller.
     
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  6. CT70_Scotts

    CT70_Scotts Member

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    Thanks! That's my plan I have a friend's K1 getting one spring and mine is getting the other. Probably go to 15 or 20wt fork oil too!
     
    #27 CT70_Scotts, Mar 7, 2018
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2018
  7. CT70_Scotts

    CT70_Scotts Member

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    Ok so I did the legs one at a time today. I used Specta 15w to flush and check the level 3" fully compressed was about 3.7 oz.
    I did switch over to 20wt and brought it to about 1.5" from the top. Now it takes force to bottom out but does not make it impossible to bottom out with me pushing on.

    I currently have both legs filled at the same height at 1.5" with one with 15wt and one with 20wt. I really can barely tell the difference, to me the critical thing is to fill it full enough to eliminate the bottoming out.

    I will install the newly purchased HD spring on one side and try it out.

    To me this is the best method to do this is off the bike one leg at a time.
     
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  8. CT70_Scotts

    CT70_Scotts Member

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    So I did the install of the HD spring on the left side and a conventional on the right what a difference! It's a bit of a challenge to set the leg up high enough to start the top bolt as you have to overcome the spring pressure alittle. With a set of Beatrice cycle BCI rear shocks this is the best riding CT70 I have ever road. Btw I weigh 180lbs. I just did a short drive combined driveway and paved Michigan road. No rattles or strange noises. I did notice that the stock spring I can move around the chrome lower tube and the lower painted tube when on the stand. I expected this and tried to stretch the stock spring before reassembling. But once off the stand the bike alone is carrying enough weight to load that spring. Can't wait to do this to my own red K1! As this is my friends bike that I am fixing up for her.
    20180322_165518.jpg
     

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