CT70 out of storage!

Adam-NLV

Well-Known Member
Lol. I was joking, Silly Rabbit, Dubbies are for ,,,adults who use it responsibly for medical conditions.only.:cool::whistle: Ill get some lettuce & carrots, i had a rabbit as a pet as a kid, petey with pink eyes! :)

The flash flood drain pipe is his bungalow, has water and tree shade, a good place to kick it against a desert of predatory birds, mostly falcons.
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Adam-NLV

Well-Known Member
Went to Home Depot today! Got some metallic paint for the eng project. Today was windy as a :ninja: desert storm but i think manyana will be calm & Hot for the last top coats... Can't control the weather but a desert gotta be a desert.....:whistle: it's coming.

Been working with wooden lattice for back yard garden projects. I picked up a new toy,
Milawaukee M12 3/8" crown stapler. It's the M12 battery power. So much easier than the pneumatic tool.
I put that staple in some hard wood, it'll be perfect for lattice wood. Shoots 6mm - 14mm. I got some galvanized T50 1/2" which is the12mm staple.

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Adam-NLV

Well-Known Member
The weather is semi coperating, still kinda windy. But i Went ahead and wet sanded the top end parts. Took a few pics.
After wet sanding or color sanding (as some people call it) i call it wet-sand and i call a sling blade a Kaiser Blade LoL:eek::LOL:

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After the wet sanding you gotta re tape and mask areas that don't need paint. I've always thought that the painting itself is the the easiest part, the pre preparation to all the painting is where all the time & labor comes in. :coffee:


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Adam-NLV

Well-Known Member
Happy Memorial Day! shout out to my uncle: Lewis, KIA. Korea .
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Good day to paint & wet sand!
The cylinder had one spot i wasn't happy with on the top coat so went ahead and wet sand that coat ...100_0121.JPG

The race Head had a side that i feather sand the colors with.... through the silver coat and even some of the orange base coat you can see.
I use 600 grit and i soak the paper first in a pickle jar! Put another coat on both parts...will bake the paint in by placing in the sun for the rest of the day.
Should be all good!(y)

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Adam-NLV

Well-Known Member
Nothing "Happy" about Memorial Day. It's a solemn day of remembrance.
Well said.


:coffee:Usually i place my work on the back of a steel sign but since these are aluminum i'm gonna place them on this flat glass,i don't want them getting too hot to avoid any deviation in the head or cylinder.;)
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69ST

Well-Known Member
I use 600 grit and i soak the paper first in a pickle jar!
Never thought about using anything but a clean bucket. Does your method improve the flavor, perhaps?;)

BTW, I use that Rustoleum formula for outdoor applications...mailbox post, firewood rack, etc. It's durable stuff, lasts for years even in a temperate climate. Dunno how it will respond to engine heat. It's also a LOT thicker than anything I've ever applied to an engine casting, so I'd recommend keeping an eye on peak engine temps, especially during break-in and high ambient air temps...until you've gained enough experience with this tune to know that it's not overheating.
 

Adam-NLV

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the tip. Will keep an eye on the temp gauge for sure, i remember my L110 i would pull in the garage and place a fan at the head, to cool it. Since the 88' will draw more heat and a cooler isn't in my plans....got me thinking about using a mini 12v fan, usually used for cooling computer power supplies, could be used to circulate air past the fins, if placed strategically...similar to some car cooling systems..
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
Installing the HV oil pump will give you a nice improvement in top end cooling. Ordinarily, I'd be shocked to see oil temps top 200F/95C at speeds below 40-45mph, even in 95F ambient air temp. (Yes, ambient air temperature affects peak oil temps.) This assumes full break-in (no abnormal frictional heating) and proper carb jetting. Power requirements don't hit the steep part of the curve until 45-50mph. Going from 50mph to 60mph, requires ~60% more hp...that's where the heat generation increases dramatically. There's nothing remarkable, or mysterious, in the least about this, it's basic physics.

The "wild card" in your build is the painted head. I really cannot recall anyone doing this. Above 40mph, any battery-operated fan that this electrical system could power...would be an airflow obstruction. The good news is that airflow...and with it, air-cooling...both increase with speed and those increases are proportional to hp requirements. IOW, there's a self-balancing effect with air cooling. You know how aerodynamic drag increases with speed? Well, this is one positive effect of it.

I suggest carrying an IR thermometer with you, during your testing/tuning/break-in phase. If you see temps above ~250F on the head, or cylinder jug, anywhere but near the exhaust port, you have an overheating issue. OTOH, temps below that level, plus dipstick temps below 110C should mean you're okay.
 

Adam-NLV

Well-Known Member
This metallic top coat paint was a joy to work with, esp when comparing the silver rim paint i used, this stuff sits right up and the dry time is way better. Usually silver & gold can be a Pita, this wasn't bad at all.
Here's a sneak quick pic. The spark plug & intake threads are good! (y) That was the final coat.

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Adam-NLV

Well-Known Member
The masking tape removal revealed that i masked off too much and missed a critical spot at the top of the Head!:eek: No big deal, just remask and re-shoot for a spot repair..
Another trick i use when needing some straight clean masking is to use pinstripe tape. That stuff is better at masking precision curves and the like and never seeps paint.(y)

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Adam-NLV

Well-Known Member
POST # 424
Shows a piece of masking tape that got sprayed over and looked like part of the Head. It's a corner piece on the side of the head.
I Noticed it when i did a mock up, so removed the tape and then spot repair that missed area.
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A gilligan move but that's why enamel was invented, spot repairs are easy.:D

More great-fun paint-drying pics.:geek::ROFLMAO:

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Adam-NLV

Well-Known Member
Yep, that glass is to make sure all is straight while it heats up out there in the sun. Today is 109F. That's the ambient temperature and steel & aluminum will get much hotter so to be on the safe side, i just baked it for half day.
Hmm.. Is there a particular colored 'Hue' emanating from these top end parts? :whistle:

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That
's gonna be the Final Coat, now to pull the stock top end off the 91.(y)

Gilligan should of been gettin busy w/Ginger! Giliggan Ginger.jpg

 

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Adam-NLV

Well-Known Member
THe kit i bought 5 yrs ago did include this race cam w/sproket and the intake manifold too.:) 100_0225 (1).JPG


I decided I want to get the bike up and running ASap and if i think the front brake needs to be upgraded to disk brake, i can take it off the 77' build. Anything under 50 cc's is legal to ride in NV with just a state DL. This cylinder reads 49cc (y), could be argued.

THe engine oil is already drained and i think i will put it on the bench to do the work.. this weekend or Friday.:coffee: I'm gettin stoked!:red70:
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
The stock drums, in good condition, work well enough to handle 50-55mph, maybe a little more. Fact is, at those speeds, compression braking will scrub-off 5-10mph very quickly. Once you're down to 50mph, no worries grabbing a handful of front brake. With just a little bit of rider technique, a 50-60mph bike can be fine with stock brakes, even riding two-up.
 
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