CT70 Stator
- Thread starter xr75
- Start date
OLD CT
Well-Known Member
3 wire stators are KO style with no neutral switch and 4 wire units K1 and up have the extra wire that connects to the green/red stripe wire for the neutral switch. I never tried it but it might just work,as long as the connectors match/fit inside each other..
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I know this is an old thread but hoping to get some feedback.
I accidentally imported a 4 wire stator - so 4 wires coming from the lighting coil and I only need 3 coming from there.
1 to earth, 1 to condenser and 1 back to harness - is there any way I can use the 4 wire @kirrbby mentions versus having to import another coil?
I accidentally imported a 4 wire stator - so 4 wires coming from the lighting coil and I only need 3 coming from there.
1 to earth, 1 to condenser and 1 back to harness - is there any way I can use the 4 wire @kirrbby mentions versus having to import another coil?
kirrbby
Well-Known Member
I'm not the best guy to answer this question for you, but maybe we can spark up some answers.
You need a 3 wire stator for a CT70?? Or for a Z50 or other?
Do you know if the one you bought is FROM a CT70? Or z50?
Can you maybe post up a picture of it?
There are a lot of different variations of these stators. We need to figure out which one you have, and what bike/engine it's going into. Good possibility that it will work...but I'm not sure about the z50k2 and up version, and that might be what you have.
You need a 3 wire stator for a CT70?? Or for a Z50 or other?
Do you know if the one you bought is FROM a CT70? Or z50?
Can you maybe post up a picture of it?
There are a lot of different variations of these stators. We need to figure out which one you have, and what bike/engine it's going into. Good possibility that it will work...but I'm not sure about the z50k2 and up version, and that might be what you have.
kirrbby
Well-Known Member
I actually have a 1969 ST70 the model with indicators and a battery that requires charging.
I have included pictures of both the 3 and 4 wire staters as well as two wiring diagrams.
I have done some research and it looks like the 4 wire stator is used with the wiring diagram which indicates 5 wires in the main plug (incl neutral switch).
Based on the above the additional wire goes to pink on the 7 wire switch which is not used. Therefore I can just unsolder the grey wire and continue as normal.
What say the wise forum?
I have included pictures of both the 3 and 4 wire staters as well as two wiring diagrams.
I have done some research and it looks like the 4 wire stator is used with the wiring diagram which indicates 5 wires in the main plug (incl neutral switch).
Based on the above the additional wire goes to pink on the 7 wire switch which is not used. Therefore I can just unsolder the grey wire and continue as normal.
What say the wise forum?
Attachments
You might ask Rod at Shirebikes for another educated opinion, if you're still feeling a bit uncertain about this. Otherwise, the early (type l & ll) ST70 daxes run the same charging setup as the CT70 K0. The only differences are the turn signal circuit and...possibly...a neutral light. I've not run across an ST70, of this vintage, with a neutral light but, I've owned less than a half-dozen of them...hardly a big enough sample.
It absolutely should be usable, only a question of whether it's plug & play or, the spades inside the modular connector need to be repositioned to match the modular connector on the wire harness. In one photo, I see green, yellow and black; in the other I see blue, red, gray & black. The black lead is for the HT coil primary feed; that goes from the primary ignition coil to the black pigtail on the modular connector.
On the charging & lighting side, you just need two AC outputs. With the OEM stator coil, yellow feeds AC directly to the headlight input; white is fed to the rectifier, rectifier output feeds the battery. Everything is grounded to the engine/chassis. Your task, as best I can determine from the info provided, is to translate the color coding back to OEM Honda wire harness color coding.
Looks to me like the red & blue leads correspond to the OEM yellow & white. If this is correct, and the lighting coil is configured the same as OEM, then you should have continuity across the red & blue leads...and between each of those and ground (i.e. the coil laminations). That gray lead is confusing. However, if it's just a ground lead, no big deal. That said, there is a third possibility and this is an aftermarket lighting coil. If there is no continuity between the AC outputs and ground, this is, most likely, a floating ground coil. That, imho, would be a major advantage...also highly unlikely, so don't let's go down that tunnel until/unless it's absolutely necessary. Let's take this one lead at a time, until it's sorted. That's nearly as easy as it sounds.
kirrbby
Well-Known Member
I think they are pretty different setups between the 4 wire that you have, and the 3 wire that you need. But I don't understand electrical well enough to know what the difference would be.
The 4 wire, K2 Z50 type, is made to run lights with no battery. The 3wire, K1 Z50 or CT70 type, is made to use with a battery.
If you study the diagrams you'll see that the lighting coils are wired differently, they ground differently, etc.
Here is the 4wire Z50K2.
Here is the 3wire CT70 K0
The 4 wire, K2 Z50 type, is made to run lights with no battery. The 3wire, K1 Z50 or CT70 type, is made to use with a battery.
If you study the diagrams you'll see that the lighting coils are wired differently, they ground differently, etc.
Here is the 4wire Z50K2.
Here is the 3wire CT70 K0
When I match up your diagram @kirrbby to mine I can see that the wires match up despite different colors which leads me to believe I can simply switch the spades around to match my wiring diagram like @racerx mentioned and ignore the grey wire coming from the coil as it does not get used on my diagram.
