My throttle was working great, but when went change carb, I could get the barrel off without going up to the throttle grip and loosening up the cable. Without this there just isn’t enough cable length to get the barrel and spring installed. I’m not used to this with my other bikes
CT90 Carb and Throttle cable Help!
- Thread starter MYTRAILHATESME!
- Start date
Old Guy Too Many Bikes
Well-Known Member
Not the worst thing in the world. Rather than look for another cable, you can easily modify your existing cable to give yourself more free play. You just need a dremel tool with a cut off wheel and a little bit of skill. I've done this many times before. You just need to carefully cut away some of the wound metal sheath without damaging the inner cable. Just take your time and cut away one turn of the sheath at a time. Then use a needlenose plier to remove the cut pieces.
joel1234567
Active Member
If the cable sheath slides down inside the handlebars it'll shorten the length of the cable that is available to go into the carb.
Also, if your slide is not returning on its own, it could be a pinched cable or "problem in the carb" (eg bad spring) as noted previously - but more often than not the throttle is gummed up and not moving. It needs disassembly, clean, lube.
Also, if your slide is not returning on its own, it could be a pinched cable or "problem in the carb" (eg bad spring) as noted previously - but more often than not the throttle is gummed up and not moving. It needs disassembly, clean, lube.
Dont mean to revive an old thread but I'm assuming once over tightened the carb is shot? I think I got a little bit over-zealous trying to fix a vacuum leak in the intake manifold. Now the throttle slide wont go back in the carb.
Old Guy Too Many Bikes
Well-Known Member
It would take quite a bit of screwing up to mess up a carb that bad. Are you sure you are inserting the piston correctly. Remove the needle, idle screw, and make sure you align the slot. Does it bind at one spot or stiff all the way in? Are there scratches on the piston or carb?. Are both parts sqeaky clean? Will a little 800 grit wet dry paper help matters?
Yes I'm putting it in the right direction, it's come out and back in quite a few times troubleshooting this bike. When I pulled it out this time it was blackened with soot / oil after attempting to start the bike. Might be unrelated but I'm not sure. I can try some sandpaper but it's far from sliding in like it usually does.
Old Guy Too Many Bikes
Well-Known Member
You need to start with a clean carb. Try a little acetone (nail polish remover) on the piston and carb before the sandpaper.
It's a rare thing for the slide to jamb due to over tightening and flange warping .
Remove the carby ad take the slide off the cable and insert the slide whilst looking through the venturi (? spellcheck doesn't recognize "venturi" !) ~ the slide *MUST* easily slide up and down of it's own weight .
Resist sanding the slide and bore ! .
*IF* the slide drops in and out easily of it's own weight, use a sharp object to *carefully* remove the O-Ring in the flange then place a piece of 1,000 grit (no lower / coarser !) wet dry abrasive paper on a piece of flat glass (I've used door windows in the field) and give it a single figure eight movement, turn the flange up and look at it ~ usually the outer edges will now have a slight sheen where they touched .
If so *gently* work the flange in a figure eight motion stopped frequently to check, the *instant* the center of the flange shows ANY brightening, STOP clean it yet again and replace the O-Ring being sure to flip it over so it'll seal properly .
I like to use flat steel 6MM washers under the nuts, this helps reduce warping .
If the slide doesn't easily slip in and out again, wipe it and the bore clean with white paper towels then spray the slide with some silicone spray and slide it fully in with your finger ~ slide it back out again and any high spots will be shiny .
Serious time and care must be taken here as it's very easy to ruin the carby by abrading it whilst trying to make the slide move easily .
I hope you know to *gently* lift the needle to ensure the 'W' clip is fully seated home ~ I find a lot of carbys that the needle is free to move up and down a few MM and this guarantees hard starting and poor running .
Remove the carby ad take the slide off the cable and insert the slide whilst looking through the venturi (? spellcheck doesn't recognize "venturi" !) ~ the slide *MUST* easily slide up and down of it's own weight .
Resist sanding the slide and bore ! .
*IF* the slide drops in and out easily of it's own weight, use a sharp object to *carefully* remove the O-Ring in the flange then place a piece of 1,000 grit (no lower / coarser !) wet dry abrasive paper on a piece of flat glass (I've used door windows in the field) and give it a single figure eight movement, turn the flange up and look at it ~ usually the outer edges will now have a slight sheen where they touched .
If so *gently* work the flange in a figure eight motion stopped frequently to check, the *instant* the center of the flange shows ANY brightening, STOP clean it yet again and replace the O-Ring being sure to flip it over so it'll seal properly .
I like to use flat steel 6MM washers under the nuts, this helps reduce warping .
If the slide doesn't easily slip in and out again, wipe it and the bore clean with white paper towels then spray the slide with some silicone spray and slide it fully in with your finger ~ slide it back out again and any high spots will be shiny .
Serious time and care must be taken here as it's very easy to ruin the carby by abrading it whilst trying to make the slide move easily .
I hope you know to *gently* lift the needle to ensure the 'W' clip is fully seated home ~ I find a lot of carbys that the needle is free to move up and down a few MM and this guarantees hard starting and poor running .
Nate,
Thanks for the detailed reply. I've tried what you posted and its not just not sliding in. At this point im tempted to just buy a new carb as this one was already giving issues.