Doing some renovation on my 1971 CT70 K0

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
I recently bought a actual punch for that job...⅛" I think is what I bought...but it's just a common punch. I didn't know there was "roll pin punches" either. But what I've always used before is long roofing nails, with the point ground off. I lay the leg on a soft 2x4 and drive the pin INTO the 2x4 a ways. Once the pin is half out I pull the leg off of the 2x and drive the pin the rest of the way out. Works well enough.

When you go to put the pin back IN... I use a small drill bit...nail...or something, to guide the roll pin STRAIGHT toward the hole on the opposite side of the leg.
Make sure ALL of the holes are lining up... that's thru THREE separate parts. Then make sure there is a slight taper on the leading end of the roll pin...no burrs or rolled edges. Then start tapping the pin in...then put the small drill bit thru the hole in the roll pin and sticking out of the other side of the fork leg and all...then continue tapping the roll pin, using the drill bit to guide the PIN, toward and into the exit hole.

I do it this way because I've had trouble before with driving the roll pin crooked, and MISSING the exit hole...which is a big ol pain in the butt.
I try to be careful with those pipe pistons, always. I've managed to break new ones too.

Last tip...don't forget to put your new gators on before you put everything back together...lol...done that before too...like a bonehead :p
 

NathanT

New Member
Done! At least done for now. Here are a few photos. This is an aftermarket seat but I have the original seat which I may get reupholstered. The original candy sapphire blue paint polished up nicely. I have repainted the hubs, rims, and the flywheel cover. I still need to repaint the clutch cover. And I may get the fenders and skid plate rechromed.

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NathanT

New Member
Thanks. I should have taken some pictures before I started for comparison.

I've never done anything like this before so there was a lot of learning involved. And I had to buy a few tools along the way, like an impact driver, snap ring pliers, a chain breaker, and a set of ratcheting metric wrenches (okay I didn't absolutely need those but they're really nice). The chain breaker was to cut the new chain to length but it broke the first time I tried to use it and I ended up breaking the chain by just grinding the rivet off the pin and pushing it out with a punch. The only real problem I had was that I was unable to remove the old wheel bearings from the hubs. I ended up taking the wheels to the local Honda dealer and they removed the bearings for me for about $150.
 
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Gary

Well-Known Member
Looks great,a job well done that you can be proud of ! I have never owned a chain breaker in the 50 odd years I've had bikes. Just did it the way you ended up doing- probably in the beginning didn't even know they existed nor had the money for one. Again great job.
 

loopiemclooperson

Active Member
Bike turned out really sharp. Well done!

I have always ground off the rivet head and use this style chain breaker. Works slick
 

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loopiemclooperson

Active Member
Here is my special tool for removing wheel bearings. It is an old bolt. 10x185mm
It has been ground down with about a 10 degree taper on two sides. Literally 1000 of bearings have been removed with it. Probably ready for another trip to the grinder.
 

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kirrbby

Well-Known Member
That looks like a very nice bike NathanT. Great job with the cleanup. You'll get tons of attention riding that one around. I've never owned a blue K0...least not a...even close to whole, bike.
I'm sure you love that thing.
 
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