Error 404 - Page not found

Discussion in 'Forum Feedback/Assistance' started by MrFixit, Jan 2, 2019.

  1. MrFixit

    MrFixit New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2019
    Messages:
    4
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hello: I am new to the lil Honda web site. I am writing to you in hopes someone can assist me. About 6 years ago there was a posting in which a web user wanted to replace his original OEM selenium rectifier with a silicon rectifier on his Honda ct70. In that thread, a reference was made to web user Jon Pardon's article or write up regarding advice or what to replace the selenium rectifier with and a link was provided as follows: (http://lilhonda.com/webboard/f6/hko-battery-charging-15433/). When I click on the link it said that an error occurred and the page could not be found. Do you by chance or anyone still have the referenced information. I am currently replacing my selenium rectifier on my ct-70 and would like to see what advice I could learn from this writeup.
     
  2.  
  3. kirrbby

    kirrbby Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2009
    Messages:
    8,839
    Likes Received:
    1,101

    Attached Files:

  4. kirrbby

    kirrbby Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2009
    Messages:
    8,839
    Likes Received:
    1,101
    Another PDF.
     

    Attached Files:

  5. MrFixit

    MrFixit New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2019
    Messages:
    4
    Likes Received:
    0
    Thanks everyone for responding so quickly. I have seen the full wave bridge rectifier testing threads and diagrams before (for the ct90 bike) and am familiar with Purdue brothers website. However, I was kind of looking for "best practices" or pictures of what members might have made themselves to replace the OEM 2 wire selenium rectifier on a ct70. That's why I was searching originally for the "HK0 battery/charging" or two wire rectifier replacement and came across the page error.

    For example, did anyone make their own replacement 2 wire diode and enclosure such as putting it in an pvc conduit and expoxy the rectifier in? I am aware of the NTE 6083 or the Radio Shack silicon diode (RS-276-1661) that is a recommended replacement diode and the necessary ratings and electrical characteristics. But, I was hoping for some pictures or what others did and/or even perhaps find a "diy" version of a 6 volt regulator that can be used to limit over voltage in the headlight. Thanks again
     
  6. racerx

    racerx Administrator
    Staff Member Administrator

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2005
    Messages:
    13,230
    Likes Received:
    1,194
    AFAIK all of the direct replacement rectifiers...OER & aftermarket reproductions...are silicon and have been for several years, now. Selenium is toxic.

    Over voltage isn't really a problem, until a major current draw is removed from the system. With CT70s, that's the battery. It's why a blown fuse can quickly result in flashbulbs, also the reason for the primary ignition circuit being included in the battery plug. When total wattage drops, that's when voltage spikes. Honda engineers did their homework, matching the electrical load to alternator output, keeping the "rubber band stretched tight". And it works...until something changes. That could be anything from conductivity, to a ground point to real-world (actual) bulb wattages. IMHO, it's unrealistic to expect every OEM electrical component, down to the last bulb, to be available with exactly the same specs and nothing to ever oxidize. That said, really can't blame the engineers for not expecting the bikes to be viable a half-century later.

    The easiest & cheapest way to extend HL bulb life is to upsize, ie. use a higher wattage, bulb. The tradeoff will likely be a dimmer headlight. Conversely, it's possible to get a brighter HL by using a lower wattage bulb. It's not possible with an OEM sealed-beam. As for voltage regulation, well, there isn't any...it's all dependent upon getting the total bulb draw matched to maximum alternator output. On the charging side, the battery will either slowly discharge (draw exceeds charging rate) or overcharge (charging rate exceeds draw), which seems to be how the setup was designed to work. With a modest rate of overcharging, it takes quite a while to sulfate-up a battery and boil away the electrolyte...especially if one were to keep the battery topped-off with distilled water. This still works well enough. SLA batteries will tolerate abuse far better than the old leakers. So, for most owners, an SLA battery and maybe another 5W of HL bulb will be good enough, as well as the cheapest way to go.

    The only real voltage regulation available, practically speaking, is incompatible with a grounded alternator, i.e. won't work with a half-wave system...unless every single component is ground to the reg/rec unit ONLY. That is virtually impossible, ask me how I know this. If you've read through the threads discussing full-wave electrics, then it should be clear why it is preferable...when practical. In this instance and at this time, "practical" is the operative word.
     

Share This Page