Follow along for custom 150cc honda nice.

The issue I had on some of these builds is that intake transfer so much heat to the carburetor to the carburetor begins to act up because the body becomes hot. Specifically on this carb combination, I’ve had it happen. I have also had icing on this particular carb combination as well on a different motor. Maybe the answer is a slightly thicker spacer between the intake manifold and the carburetor in none between the intake and head.
 
again for you Honda nice lovers. Something to be very aware of is the clutch parts. At some point Honda superceeded the clutch basket internals. They changed the two aluminum clutch pieces that go inside the basket. The problem with this is they retained the original part numbers so when I ordered replacement clutch metal plates, they sent me the wrong ones. When I go to look up the part, they give the wrong parts. I checked my spares from Thailand. And low and behold, the part numbers are the same, but the parts are different. The issue is that the stack height was not thick enough to engage the clutch plates because I was using aftermarket metal plates. The lesson is this. If you are going to replace the clutch plates and metal plates on your Honda nice engine do you need to validate that the clutch basket inner pieces match with the metal plates. TRX 90 parts can be used only if you use all of it. I also snapped the throw out plate. I am always very careful to work. Those four nuts in a pattern but today it just let loose and snapped. That’s the second one. I’ve snapped in all my years building these. I should just start making these out of billet aluminum like I did for that other custom motor
 

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I had to order up a handful of pieces in order to complete this and get it running. First off I needed a clutch lever. Second, I needed a throttle cable. Third I need a new front sprocket since the stock was 13 tooth and was 428 chain. I suppose I could run a 420 but I would prefer doing it correctly.

I did go ahead and kick it, and it literally started on the first kick with a tiny touch of starting fluid. I connected the fuel line and kicked it three times and it started. I only ran it for a few seconds because it does not have an exhaust as that will be the next thing that needs to be made.
 
It starts easy and idles great. I am in the process of fabbing the exhaust. Ordered a stainless reverse cone to go on the end and that is that.
 

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Custom throttle cables got you down. It’s actually pretty easy to address. Start with.an m5 stainless bolt inside your vice. Heat it up cherry red along with your brass brazing rod . Mine are 650° melting. I use map gas for this exercise. Once everything is cherry red in the brazing rod is filling the Allen bolt, poke the end of your throttle cable in and let it there for 30 seconds. Then take the whole bolt and cable and drop it in some snow or cold water and it comes right out. Shape with sander of choice.
 

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On brass rods you don’t need any flux. I have tried this with solder with and without flux and it just doesn’t stack up to using these brazing rods.
 
I need to make an exhaust hanger and weld a tab to the muffler. I hate making those hangers.
 

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If anyone has a source for these things please let me know. I need to weld a tang on the muffler before i weld this up and finalize things. But these are a pia to make.
 

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This is one I made from a Front sway bar link from a 2015 challenger..as crazy as it sounds the car was totaled with only 1532 miles and the link got bent in the wreck just as you can see....I did modify the shock side mount by removing the bushing and brazing a thick washer on the inside..I used the 5.7 Hemi in my 2000 Jeep T.J…sway bar links can be used from other cars as a starting point with some heating and bending if it’s the right length.
 

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It’s together and running but i have not attempted jetting yet. Its close but not good enough. Rode it around the neighborhood and i have some great feedback to share. It has great power, shifts well and no oil leaks. It has whine on deceleration more than normal so ive got to look into that. I suspect too tight chain. My favorite is you can lug it. I mean 1750rpm lug without it bucking. That was the intent. The torque of the added stroke is very noticeable. That will get even better when i put the non lightened flywheel on it.

Im going to attempt tuning it while we have a warm spell this week. Lots of snow on the ground but roads are clear.
 

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Got the idle circuit tuned and close on main. There’s still too much snow on the ground to fly around the neighborhood and try and get the main jet perfect. I think the main jet is probably lean based on hip popping a little bit on full throttle. Another problem is this bike is not safe faster than 50 miles an hour and even that is pushing it. The tires on this thing are complete garbage the front one is out of round and I cannot get it to see Perfectly on the rim so there is a distinct. Vibration coming from the front end at speed.. I love the low lugging ability of this motor. Here’s a quick video so you can hear out sounds.
 
So im building another one of these. The exact same thing except that the head will be a trailbikes v2 head with matching piston and carb will be vm26. It will be a fun compare since im going to mount it in the same bike with same gearing and see what happens. Waiting on some bearings before i can move past mockup.
 

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oh...ya that's cool! Should be interesting. 👍 Going to look back to remember what carb you used on the first one.
Looks like a VM20?
 
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oh...ya that's cool! Should be interesting. 👍 Going to look back to remember what carb you used on the first one.
Looks like a VM20?
Yep vm20. Its a little restrictive at top end and a 22 or 24 would be better but tvats what i had. I think i have a kiehin 24 here i coukd try too. Really that first one was built for torque and poking around. It will find a home in an otherwise stock 1993 ct70. This one a little more suited for touring. This will have light sling and flywheel too and will land in my cl70 clone. I have addressed everything on it that made it a turd other than the signals and fenders and should be ok at speed.
 
Best way to cure engine paint. I paint them outside and let them dry for a day then pop them on the stove. They hit 275 like this for a few hours and the finish is like a rock
 

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Excellent info!
A few hours is longer than I might have guessed. Do you have a paint...brand/type that you want to recommend for that job?
 
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