Gold 1970 CT70KO

Discussion in 'Projects/Builds' started by Texan, Jun 19, 2018.

  1. Texan

    Texan Member

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    -Back to a roller.
    -Repainted the fenders, handlebars and frame mold trim gloss black to match the wheels.
    -Put on the decals. One of the holes left by the mystery bracket got covered up.
    -I also painted the acorn nuts on the shocks and replaced the washers with new chrome ones. One of the acorn nuts was dented, I filled with epoxy and molded back to round.
    -I purchased new handlebar knobs from ebay, but studs are too short. I did find one in a box of parts that came with the bikes, so need to source another.
    -The left handlebar does not have the rear brake perch, so might just remove the rear brake cable lever and put a spacer for now.

    20180719_201645.jpg 20180719_201813.jpg 20180711_192112.jpg 20180719_201911.jpg
     
  2. Texan

    Texan Member

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    Got the gas tank freshened up. Tested it first for leaks, all was good. Replaced the cap with an OEM cap, p/n: 17620-098-010 & repainted the bracket. The lines didn't leak, but will replace with new ones, also one had been plugged up with a bolt. One of the tank dampers was falling off, I re-glued it.
     

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  3. racerx

    racerx Administrator
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    I'm really not a fan of "rattlecan black chrome". That said, you've got this roller looking very nice. Please...take that as intended, high praise.

    I would, however, suggest replacing the narfed fasteners; they're cheap enough.
     
  4. Texan

    Texan Member

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    Thanks racerx, I'm just trying to get this bike whole again. Once that is done, upgrades will be easy. Next task is the wiring.

    From the looks of the wire harness in the bike, the PO had a different engine in there as it had a cdi in it. In a box of parts that came with it, I found a OEM ignition switch & wire harness that looks to be in ok condition. There is a broken key in it, so it can be turned with a screwdriver. I contacted HondaKeys.com and he said he did have some keys to the switch. I will meter out the switch to see if it is functioning correctly before I do order keys. The wire harness will be gone through also. Time to study the wire diagram.
     

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  5. Texan

    Texan Member

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    I started to go thru the wire harness and gave up. The whole thing had been taken apart and fiddled with then rewrapped in tape. There was missing wires and various splices to deal with. I found an aftermarket harness on ebay for $30. Got it from somebody named Allen, wonder if it the same Allen on here?

    The key switch metered ok according to the wire diagram. I extracted the broken key and found a cheaper one on ebay instead of the Hondakeys website. Received the key and it worked just fine.
     

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  6. allenp42

    allenp42 Active Member

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    Yep, that was me. Glad you got it sorted out.
     
  7. Texan

    Texan Member

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    Thanks Allen, it's a lil world ain't it ;) Also, I ordered it on a Saturday and it arrived Monday, wow, talk about fast shipping!

    The bike came with a what I believe a 12v coil installed, it has one mounting stud. Can't use that, so out it went. Searched for a replacement and found they look like one that came in the box of parts that came along with the bike, but the plug wire was smashed/melted. Also in the box was an original, but has a busted wire and has a little cylinder thing on it, not sure what that is. Anybody know?

    I got the aftermarket one on Ebay for $16. Went to put it on and the studs did not line up with the mounting holes. Instead of wallowing out the holes, I whacked the coil bracket between the studs to bring them in. Then it fit, but the studs are a little short, so I didn't put a washer, just the nuts but I did add a little Loctite.
     

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  8. racerx

    racerx Administrator
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    As long as you understand that there's no such thing as a "12v" ignition coil, that there are, in reality, only breaker point and CDI coils...that should be matched to the ignition type...you should be fine.

    FYI, those OEM coils are probably usable. They rarely fail. Damaged HT (plug) leads are common and easily repaired. It usually comes down to aesthetic preferences. I've been running an NGK splicer on my CDI Honda coil and it's been perfectly fine for better than 15 years & 25,000 miles; it's just kinda ugly...in a solid-but-functional way. This was a new coil, the plug lead was just 4" too short. Opinions are polarized on how best to extend, or repair, an HT lead. Personally, I like an extension with a soldered splice, sealed with layers of self-fusing tape and capped with shrink tube. It's permanent, clean and...if you make the splice inside the frame, 100% invisible. Done outside of the frame it can be virtually invisible, with a little bit of artistry/crafstmanship. Originally, CT70 plug leads had loose, outer, sheathing that could easily hide a solid splice repair; that loose sheathing is easy to replicate.

    From what I saw in the one photo, it appears that someone did a poor job with shrink tubing. What looks like a poorly-spliced HT lead may be intact beneath that sloppy work.

    OTOH, there's nothing wrong with using a minty-new reproduction coil, AFAIK.
     
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  9. Texan

    Texan Member

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    Good information there Racerx. I have never repaired a coil, but it seems reasonable. I will keep the oem coil for repair at a later date.


    When I got this bike it was a package deal, one roller and one disassembled. The disassembled one is a silver tag. As I have started to learn about these bikes, I know there are several differences between the silver tag and black tag versions. Since the bikes came with boxes of parts from both bikes mixed together, I have been researching to distinguish the differences, as I want to keep all the silver tag unique parts for the silver tag bike.
    One of the parts that I had two of was the battery box. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the box with the "big 8" bolt is a silver tag. There are a few other differences I notices in between the two, like the bend on the mounting tab, and the way the parts are upset/bonded/staked (not sure of the correct terminology).
     

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  10. racerx

    racerx Administrator
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    You are on the right track, correct on both counts. FYI, there's a third type of K0 battery box...K1 type that was used on the late K0s. Those "big 8" bolt markings actually vanished early on in the K0 production run, sometime in 1969 AFAIK and there was a mix of big & small that gradually transitioned to all small 8s. My guess is that Honda changed bolt suppliers and the mix of marking changed as the older stock was depleted.

    FYI, the ST fenders, muffler, speedometer and seat pan are all different. If you got a seat pan with a bolted-on/removable toolkit holder, it's an early ST pan.
     
  11. Texan

    Texan Member

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    The silver tag seat pan does have the bolt on tool kit holder, pretty rough, but not cracked. Here is a pic of it. Also some pics from the actual CL ad that I saved, just to show you what I'm working/sorting thru.
     

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  12. racerx

    racerx Administrator
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    The ST seat pan will probably need a lot of work to restore properly; it's worth it. These things are hard to find in restorable condition, let alone ready to use. Looks like you have the early ST wheel hubs, too...also hard to find, but nowhere near as scarce as that seat pan. Nice score!
     
  13. Texan

    Texan Member

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    About half a year ago while I was fixing up my CT70 clone, I came across a CL ad for Honda parts including ct70 parts. The pictures didn’t show much detail, but I spotted a CT70 engine guard in a pile, which I needed, so I figured there had to be more CT parts in there. I asked the guy if he would sell only the CT parts and he said yes. When I got there he said it would be $200 for whatever I picked thru or $200 for everything. So of course I took everything. Turns out most of the stuff was not CT70 related, but still Honda nonetheless. It was about a pickup full of stuff, only I was in a Tahoe. I made it fit all fit though LOL. I got the engine guard and also found a CT tail light bracket, which I installed both on my clone. I sold a headlight bucket and a brand new heavy duty racing chain and got half my money back. Being fairly new to the Honda scene, I did not know what all I really had. I just somewhat sorted and stored everything and hadn’t really thoroughly gone thru them.

    Since I started working on this bike, I figured I would start going thru them again. Now that I’m a little more familiar with the different type of parts, I have found a handful of CT parts. Here are some pics of when I got them home and sorted and laid them out. Also are some pics of the CT parts I have found so far. Thought I’d post this, so if I reference my Honda parts pile, you know where they came from.
     

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  14. Texan

    Texan Member

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    Got the wire harness and ignition switch installed. Also got OEM Honda fuel line. I saw on here about the 6v battery that Lowes carries, so I picked one up. I don't have the white battery tray and the battery box is missing the two large rubbers. So temporarily, I tie wrapped a couple of random rubber bumpers I had laying around. I used the old battery harness and crimped on some quick connect terminals. Since there was many missing and rusted hardware, I ordered a small variety of stainless steel versions. I did sand off the markings to make them a little look a little better.
     

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  15. Texan

    Texan Member

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    The left handlebar didn’t have the mounting hole for the OEM Headlight switch, p/n: 35250-126-701 . I took some measurements from a bar I found I'm my parts pile and drilled one to match. Thought about drilling the other holes to run the wire thru the handlebar like the OEM setup, but will just wrap the wire for now.

    I had ordered new knobs on ebay from PCC, but they were too short. The one knob that did come with the bike fit, but was barely grabbing a couple of threads. I found these 55mm long ones on Trail Buddy, p/n: TB493, just what I needed.

    Also installed the OEM main wire harness grommet, p/n: 32984-098-000.
     

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  16. racerx

    racerx Administrator
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    When it comes to the foldable handlebar assembly and switch controls, the OEM versions are far superior to the Chinese knockoffs. The knockoff bar clamps look seriously flimsy, imo. The Chinese bar knobs aren't what I'd call a safety risk just seriously cheezy...and...as you've seen, a different length.

    Suggest you look closely at the indexing tabs...the Honda ones (and quality repops) have a triangular shape, where the Chineezy versions are squared. That affects how they fit the clamp...and how long the studs need to be in order to engage sufficient threaded length.
     
  17. Texan

    Texan Member

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    Got a knockoff carb and cleaned up the engine. The splotch paint job somebody did will doesn't bother me, so it will stay as is for now. I don't see anything broken or cracked. The PO said it did run ok. Also cleaned the intake that came with the bike and mounted the engine.
     

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  18. Texan

    Texan Member

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    This is how they fit, they are bottoming out on the shoulder. A few posts back, I showed a couple of OEM bars I found in my parts pile, but the perches are oriented differently, so gonna keep a lookout for more OEM bars to pair up with those. I also read on here that the handlebars are kinda all over the place so its better to buy them in a set? Surely the quality repops are also made in China :D Looking at the what I believe are OEM bars that came with my Silvertag, one of the bars bottoms out on the tab rather than the shoulder, so I guess as long as the bars are tight all is ok?
     

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  19. OLD CT

    OLD CT Well-Known Member

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    It would have been the best time to service the clutch spinner, even throw new fiber discs in while the engine was out of the frame, hope that clutch works ok. Who knows when that was done last, if ever.
     
  20. Texan

    Texan Member

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    I know, I know. Hastiness gets the best of me sometimes. By the look of the case screws, it does not look like it has ever been opened. The speedo is at about 3K miles, and the PO had been running it with another engine so they are not the true miles on this engine. I've never messed with the clutch on my clone or Z50R. Hopefully it works fine, but the only way I know how to test it is by riding it.
     

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