Hello! '82 CT70

Discussion in 'General' started by TheIdleShop, Feb 17, 2020.

  1. TheIdleShop

    TheIdleShop New Member

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    Hi There,

    This is a great looking site, I am glad I found it! I was gifted an abandoned ct70, no history, no title, no keys, no start. It was picked up at the dump. I am a glutton for punishment and drawn to old broken things... It looks like a ton of fun and I would love to rip it around down here in Southern Idaho, we have hundreds of miles of dirt roads and trails ready to be explored.

    I am in the process of trying to get it running. In a fit of wishful thinking I rebuilt the carb and cleaned up the gas tank before checking spark. There is no spark. After poking around it became apparent that this thing had sat in a barn for some time. There was a lot of mouse fur and droppings inside the frame and a lot of the wiring harness was chewed through. The knob on the kill switch is broken and there is no key.

    I got in there this weekend and spliced all of the chewed up wires back together with a soldering iron and heat shrink. Now I am trying to bypass the key and kill switch through the headlight.

    So far, my initial problems are:
    • How do I hot wire the bike to bypass the kill switch and key
    • How do I remove the lock core from the plastic housing to find the key code
    Once I know I have appropriately bypassed the kill switch and key I can continue trouble shooting the spark issue. I am going to pull the flywheel today to take a look at the points. I am putting together a shopping list including new kill switch, new key, flywheel cover, gas cap gasket, plug, points, and condensor.

    This turned into a longer post than I thought. I hope it came across ok. I am excited to be on the site and look forward to learning more about this bike. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

    Thanks,
    Mike

    the gang.jpg
     
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  3. racerx

    racerx Administrator
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    Welcome aboard!

    Do pay close attention when ordering engine & carburetor parts. 1982 is a unique model...literally, one-year-only in terms of certain engine parts.

    As for bypassing the wire harness, easier than you might think. Disconnect the stator/harness plug, then run a jumper from the primary ignition to the secondary (HT) coil input. If you get spark, you've isolated the electrical issue to the harness/keyswitch. If not, don't be surprised to find out that points are rusted.

    Going by what you've mentioned so far, I recommend getting a flywheel puller, then throwing a set of points and maybe a new condenser at this machine. I suppose you might try replacing the points then retesting. Once you have the proper flywheel tool, it'd be easy enough. If you do end up installing new points & condenser and still have no spark, you'll need to check the primary & secondary coils using an ohmmeter. These things rarely fail but, rarely isn't the same as "never".

    I also suggest checking compression...at least a simply shadetree mechanic test, cranking the engine via the kickstarter using a hand, not a foot. You should feel sharp resistance on the compression stroke. If you have a difficult time determining when the engine has reached the compression stroke, it may be losing so much pressure that it won't fire. OTOH, if luck is really on your side, then it sat all those years with both valves closed...in which case the top end might be good condition.

    One step at a time...spark, fuel, compression.
     
  4. MountainMini

    MountainMini Active Member

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    I’m sure it looks like this. I have an 83. This is off an 80 parts bike. Anyway, I believe I came in from the back with a couple of small skinny screwdrivers and pried the black plastic tabs and worked it until it started to work it’s way outta there. It comes out from the front side. A little frustrating but be patient and it will come out.

    A2E9599E-13DE-45B3-BE17-3CB99339CE01.jpeg 9050403E-C8B2-494E-8125-695AAE345173.jpeg 2ED91967-5F00-49D3-93F3-AF01B5AA7118.jpeg
     
  5. racerx

    racerx Administrator
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    A little bit of heat can improve the attitude of old plastic.
     
  6. TheIdleShop

    TheIdleShop New Member

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    Thanks for the fast replies!

    I put a little heat on the lock core and made some shims from an old beer can, i think it will come out with some more fiddling.

    Racerx, I am not following you on jumping the primary and secondary coils. I have the plug for the primary/stator harness in the picture below. Am I supposed to jump it straight to the black wire coming out of the coil that then connects to the spark plug in the second picture? Thanks for the quick help!

    IMG_2398.jpg IMG_2400.jpg
     

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  7. cjpayne

    cjpayne Well-Known Member

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    Yes, black wire jumped to black wire.

    Btw, the petcock on your fuel selector is missing a screw. Even if the seal is still good, it will leak bad.
     
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  8. MountainMini

    MountainMini Active Member

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    Looks like you got an old XR? Bullet Proof. That is one redneck seat cover on the ct? I love my 2001 xr250r!
     
  9. airblazer

    airblazer Active Member

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    I got my bike under extremely similar circumstances. Welcome (y)
     
    #8 airblazer, Feb 17, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2020
  10. TheIdleShop

    TheIdleShop New Member

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    I got the lock core out eventually. No spark on my initial attempt to jump the black cables, I will try some variations in the next few days. I'll order the flywheel puller, points, and condenser.
    @cjpayne the petcock has 2 rivets instead of screws, aftermarket replacement maybe?
    @MountainMini that is an xr250 a buddy dropped off around the same time as this ct70 it's been sitting for a while just needs a mild tune up, I put it on the back burner because it should be "easy".
    @airblazer these things seem to just find certain people. I had a Vespa Sport 100 before this that came out of a scrap yard for 25 cents a pound.

    Thanks for the quick replies this has to be one of the most responsive forums I have ever joined.

    -Mike
     
  11. Adam-NLV

    Adam-NLV Well-Known Member

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    The 80's and later bikes use to sometimes get treated like the black sheep but these days the CT70 Trail Bike is enjoying a restoration boom! There are no more black sheep !. Some Meguiars Polish will make that old paint perk right uP. What a nice Gift!
    My last gift was a used coat!:mad::D Welcome to lilHonda !
     
  12. kirrbby

    kirrbby Well-Known Member

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    Big welcome to lilHonda! This really is a awesome website, and we're glad to have you.

    BTW...I think that is a great first post.
     
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  13. racerx

    racerx Administrator
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    The riveted petcock assembly is original. It was intended to be replaced as an assembly...which is still available new. There's also a serviceable version of the petcock assembly, which cover screws instead of rivets...the packing washer is cheap.It is possible to drill the rivets out, tap the holes, then replace then with screws. Frankly, I'd go for the new petcock assembly, the one with the demountable cover...a clean solution and less work.

    Adam is right, the later models didn't get much respect...years ago. Fact is, the later the model, the better the machine. Honda continued making small running changes right up to the end. It's the cosmetic changes, where they made cost cuts, that get all the attention. No one paid much attention to the later 1970s bikes, with few exceptions and the 1980-later models almost couldn't be given away...until the last 5-10 years. Once the "low-hanging fruit" (low-priced K0 & K1 models) mostly vanished, the later models starting getting their due. The later bikes still don't bring as much money as the "classic" models do...but they also don't cost as much to restore. The only real downsides of the later models are the aesthetics (and beauty is in the eye of the owner/beholder) and scarcity of certain parts. 1982 is the real odd duck but only the engine...and that can be addressed, if one desires. For a non-purist, none of this really matters much, if at all.
     
  14. OLD CT

    OLD CT Well-Known Member

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    One advantage of owning a 1982, splitting the cases is a piece of cake with ''8mm head'' case bolts. ;)
     
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  15. Gary

    Gary Well-Known Member

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    Tell us more about the Baja Bug.....
     
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  16. TheIdleShop

    TheIdleShop New Member

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  17. TheIdleShop

    TheIdleShop New Member

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    Before this bike I knew little to nothing about the ct70s, I had ridden a ct90 and been looking for another one. It's funny how you enter a community thinking that everything is homogeneous and realize all the variations between years and models. The good news is I like the moto bars and I'm not a purist so I can roll with it. I do wish that front fender was not (cracked) plastic. The main drawback with a one off year model is the difficulty in finding parts.

    I appreciate all the replies. My parts arrived in the mail today, I was able to pull the fly wheel and found a little surface rust on the wheel. the stators had some rust and there was corrosion on the condenser, the felt looked rough and the part of the points that rides on the shaft looked a little corroded.

    Before I replace the points/condenser I had a question about process. It looks like I need to re-solder the wires to both the points and the stators. Do ya'll just re-use the wires? Is surface rust on the stators a problem? should they be replaced as well? There were a bunch of grass seeds behind the flywheel, not surprising since the cover had a big piece missing and had been sealed with silicone. A new one is on the parts list for later.

    @racerx thanks for the heads up on the petcock assembly, I saw some for pretty cheap, ordered a service kit before I realized the cover was riveted, if it gives me fits I'll just order a new assembly.

    @Gary the baja is Lola my '72 Super Beetle Baja. First car, still running 18 years later. She's due a front end swap this summer: new pan head from mcpherson struts to pre- '65 link pin beam. I have been a VW fan forever, one of the big reasons I like old broken stuff...

    I'll get after it this weekend, any tips on the stators and condenser is appreciated. IMG_2436.jpg IMG_2440.jpg IMG_2439.jpg
     
  18. racerx

    racerx Administrator
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    The coil armature looks fine. I'd carefully wire brush the rust from the ends, then apply a thin film of grease (preferably dielectric grease) to seal the metal. Compressed air ought to be enough to blow-out the rest of the gar-bahge. Really, your stator assembly looks to be in nice condition.

    Yes, the leads that are soldered onto the condenser must be soldered onto the new condenser. You'll have to melt the solder on the existing condenser then pull the leads free. If you've done this with other engines, you know what to expect. If not, it might be a teensy bit tricky, at first but it's no big deal. Note how the leads are routed, clamped & soldered. You must be very careful when soldering the new condenser; it's easy to overheat it...which can be fatal.

    I really recommend cleaning, or replacing the points first, leaving the original condenser alone...for now. See if you can get spark just by bypassing the wire harness and replacing the points. If you do, you're probably good-to-go, with a spare condenser on-the-shelf & ready whenever you might need it. If it takes a new condenser to restore normal ignition output, nothing lost but a little bit of time...and you'll have gotten some education that could be very useful to you in the future.
     
  19. cjpayne

    cjpayne Well-Known Member

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    Yeah those coil ends need to be cleaned up. Since those need cleaning, I'm sure the flywheel does too. If the points cam on the flywheel is pitted, it will eat up the points in no time. Check to see if that cam is smooth and that the inside of the flywheel is clean. WD40 and electrical contact cleaner will help too.
     
  20. Tripod

    Tripod Active Member

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    Someone sure did a fancy job of wiring up and soldering that condenser.
     
  21. OLD CT

    OLD CT Well-Known Member

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    That shift shaft is bent like a pretzel.:eek: Going to be a major oil leak, if it shifts at all.
     

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