HK1 winter project.

[Tripod]

Picked up a roller today for $400. No title and more than i care to spend, but H models are not as common around here as id like.

The good:

Upon initial inspection it appears the frame isnt twisted. I checked the steering stop tab, battery box area, neck, engine mount area, and swingarm. All seem straight. Appears to have good bones with straight fork ears and covers.

Bad:

No engine, carb, or muffler.

I have quite a bit of parts stashed away so i can replace the tires, put in an XL70 engine, use a cl70 muffler, and a ct70k0 seat.

What carb came on the hk1 with a vin in the 8200 range?

 

[Tripod]

More pics...

 

[Robert thran]

It looks like it does have good bones,,, in my opinion $400 was a good deal for you if you look what people on eBay want for bare frames,, what you bought you can almost plug any motor in and ride..the research I did on carbs shows k-1 ct70H should have a 594A but I can’t say that’s 100% right,,,I’m sure others that know for sure will pipe in..good find!!

 

[airblazer]

I guess not spending an additional $1600 on the ST90 makes sense, even though it would’ve been awesome. That HK1 would be a deal where I live. Nice score!

 

[CT70Wizard]

Year:1972 Model:HK1 Honda PN:16100-098-740 Carb Model:594A Jets:Main #58/Slow #35 Cap:Short

 

[Tripod]

Got right to it after coming home from work. Hit with simple green and honda brite. Not tok much rust despite it spending time outside according to previous owner. The handlebar knobs and the mounting bolts for the front fender gave me a hard time. Didnt have to use the induction gun tho.

 

[Tripod]

Here's where im at on Saturday afternoon. I dug through my boxes of parts and found lots of stuff i forgot i had .

 

[ktheake]

Enjoying your new Diamond in the rough I see . Been following along sharing your interest .
I like the front fork setup on them compared to the pogo of the KO but they are all of interest in different ways .
I see this is an H and I’m not all that knowledgeable on that point /4 speeds but what production of the H designation was a K1 vs the KO . I’m only suspecting K0 was higher than the K1 . Anyway Enjoy that Candy red K0 build up .

 

[Robert thran]

I have the 1541th k-1H made and it’s month / year date is 8/71 so I’m thinking that’s when they first appeared?

 

[Tripod]

Not a big fan of the beaver tail.

 

[airblazer]

Not a big fan of the beaver tail.

Maybe this will help?

 

[Tripod]

Finished the bulk of the teardown. I had originally planned to clean up the wheels and use some spares i had laying around. Well like most of my projects i decided against fighting old split rims and just went ahead with repop rims and trail wings.

Started the paint refresh with rubbing compound on the fork tins. I think thats what really changed the direction of the build. That ruby red going from sunfaded and dirt to faded and well, candy.

The photos show the area on the frame i was worried about. Nothing too cancerous for fifty years.

 

[-Nate]

I agree ;

This looks like money well spent to me .

 

[JHminitrails]

It's really amazing how well the old paint will polish back up on them. It will turn out great @Tripod ! By restoring all the hardware or replacing the really crusty ones, repainting the silver parts, polishing all the chrome and replacing the decals they really come back to a very presentable condition. The hardest part is getting the new decals perfectly positioned as to not have tan lines from the faded paint.

 

[-Nate]

I keep hammering away at this : Honda used top quality paints back in the day, some of the rusty junkers I've dug out of creek beds, manure piles and so on, cleaned and waxed right up to AS-NEW finish again a[art from the chips & scrapes .

I'd work on the rusty parts chemically, then clear coat or otherwise encapsulate them once the rust is gone, it's not hard, just time consuming .

 

[Tripod]

It's cleaning up nice. The back end of the bike seemed to have the most rust. I saved the split rim separating session for when I need to get out some anger. Rear hub was pretty tore up but salvageable.

Here's my fork in the road:

I have three xl70 motors in unknown conditions. I picked them up years ago. Two are long locks and one is a shortblock. I bought them because everything was there. Manual cover, full stator assembly, 4spd trans and crank.

The primary donor had a weird click when I turned it over by hand. I bottomed out the tensioner and began to dig deeper. Here's a tip: if there are no teeth at all on the oil pump sprocket, the middle roller is bald, and the timing sprocket has shark teeth, you'll have plenty of chain slack.

I pulled the head and inspected the cam bearing. Nothing too severe. No flat spots on tappets or cam lobes. Cylinder bore not scarred, but measured at the wear limit. 1.852
Side of the piston didn't have scoring or galling. Wrist pain looked ok.

I really don't want to rebuild an xl70 motor to put it into a ct70 h. I currently have an xl70 motor built and running in a cl70 that I have been searching for a numbers correct case for years.
1. I'm thinking about just pulling that and putting it into this. My other consideration is that it's winter and there is no rush to finish the project.

2. I have plenty of spare engine parts that I could slap into this junk motor and run it till it fries while I wait for the h case to pop up.

 

[Robert thran]

It's cleaning up nice. The back end of the bike seemed to have the most rust. I saved the split rim separating session for when I need to get out some anger. Rear hub was pretty tore up but salvageable.

Here's my fork in the road:

I have three xl70 motors in unknown conditions. I picked them up years ago. Two are long locks and one is a shortblock. I bought them because everything was there. Manual cover, full stator assembly, 4spd trans and crank.

The primary donor had a weird click when I turned it over by hand. I bottomed out the tensioner and began to dig deeper. Here's a tip: if there are no teeth at all on the oil pump sprocket, the middle roller is bald, and the timing sprocket has shark teeth, you'll have plenty of chain slack.

I pulled the head and inspected the cam bearing. Nothing too severe. No flat spots on tappets or cam lobes. Cylinder bore not scarred, but measured at the wear limit. 1.852
Side of the piston didn't have scoring or galling. Wrist pain looked ok.

I really don't want to rebuild an xl70 motor to put it into a ct70 h. I currently have an xl70 motor built and running in a cl70 that I have been searching for a numbers correct case for years.
1. I'm thinking about just pulling that and putting it into this. My other consideration is that it's winter and there is no rush to finish the project.

2. I have plenty of spare engine parts that I could slap into this junk motor and run it till it fries while I wait for the h case to pop up.

What case numbers are you looking for on the cl70? I have a few..

 

[Tripod]

What case numbers are you looking for on the cl70? I have a few..

Cl70e-305xxx

 

[Robert thran]

Cl70e-305xxx

All I have are 105xxx,,,a 106xxx and a 312xxx. Sorry.

 

[Tripod]

Heres some pics of the timing chain assembly.

Oil pump still spun ok. Crank bearings seem ok. Trans bearings seem ok. Im going to take the engine down to the minimum without splitting the case. Rinse it all in mineral spirits, then reassemble.

Ill use my scope to look inside the cases to see if any transmission teeth are chipped.

Reassemble with a cheap piston and rings ive got in the pile along with other used engine parts ive got kicking around.

This engine has the absolute most disgusting clutch spinner ive ever seen.