installing new gold chain

j1mmy

Member
I've looked in the book but I need some field experience installing the new chain. Should I count the links or just wrap it and go with the length I need?

Where should I start the wheel axel to frame indicators - on the first mark closest to the engine?

Which mark should it roughly end up on - in the middle somewhere?

What is the best way to punch out a pin?

does it matter which way the splice faces the forward rotation?


Thanks for any advice you can throw my way!
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
If you're using Iris chain or D.I.D. ZN2, be aware that these chains are waaaay more durable than the cheap stuff. You won't get much stretch, so be careful you don't make it too short or you're basically screwed. I've seen about 1 tooth's chain stretch (1/2 link) after 2000 miles. Assuming you know what size sprockets you're going to run, a test fit is the only way to determine the best chain length. There's roughly 3 teeth worth of adjustment, max, in the rear swingarm axle mounts and no half-links made for these chains. Ideally, you'll get the needed length with the rear axle in the front half of the adjustment range. If you end up with the axle near the end of it's travel, then you may have to live with it. If the chain does elongate more than the adjustment can cover, then you'll be able to remove a link at that time.

Splice orientation is a moot point. These chains have their own specific master links because the links themselves are wider. Just orient the spring clip so that the closed end faces the direction of rotation and you'll be fine.

I prefer to grind the pin ends flush with the sideplate and drive them out with a punch. It is also advisable to remove the excess lube from the outside of the chain. The heavy grease used by the manufacturer will attract sand & grit like a magnet and the first time you hit "the dusty trail" you'll watch the chain suddenly "stretch" within very few miles (it's also murder on sprockets). Mineral spirits & a rag or aerosol spray dry-film chain lube work well for removing the excess from the outside while leaving the pins & rollers lubed internally where it really counts.
 
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j1mmy

Member
Thanks for the good advice racerx. Its a DID 420 Z from DRATV

I started with the line at the front marker and I could almost reach the pin I needed but not quite. I went to the next pin and punched it out -reminded me of working on the chain of my bike as a kid.

I started adjusting and got all the way to just barely reaching the fourth marker. I'll leave it there and if it does stretch later I can revisit the pin I could almost reach and pull out a link.

I did the mineral spirits and rag trick - that chain was sticky!

How tight should the back axel nut be?



Thanks again!
 

P.C.

Active Member
Hi J1MMY,You want to see 3/4 in movement on the lower part of the chain in the middle,when u are sitting on the bike.Tighten the axle nut to 29 to 39.8 ft lbs.Out of my chiltons honda singles manual.:)
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
For the intial run, it's okay to start with the chain ever-so-slightly tight. It won't loosen much after the first few miles. As I mentioned, this is quality chain. I wouldn't go crazy on the axle nut torque. The minimum value is preferred unless the axle nut loosens from normal running, in which case you'd do as well to source a new one.
 
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