BlackMamba
New Member
Anybody ever installed turn signals on an old CT70. I have a Sapphire Blue 1971, so it was not manufactured with turn signals. I don't know how possible if at all it is to install some turn signals onto it. Any advice?
Installing Turn Signals
- Thread starter BlackMamba
- Start date
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- Tags
- ct 70 turn signal
Biggest hurdles...finding a 6v signal kit & figuring out the actual signal stalk assemblies to use + where/how to mount them.
No need to replace your existing harness. You can "T" into the horn/brake light circuit, voila! switched power. I'd just run the new add-on signal wiring with the original harness. The exposed ends should fit through the sheathing, electrical tape can handle the rest.
There's not much untapped "reserve" capacity in pre-signal era models. Thus, it'd be a good idea to upsize the battery and source an LED signal kit, with an electronic flasher relay. Just sourcing a sealed, 6v AGM battery will give you roughly double the charge capacity...in the same sized unit. The K0 battery carrier is a lot larger than K1, so it may be possible to fit a larger battery, or possibly a pair of AGM type (wired in parallel), by replacing the thick rubber spacers...if you're looking for some overkill.
As for the stalk assemblies, themselves, I'd replace the tail light assembly. The Dax version bracket retains the K0 light asm and adds signal mounts to either side of the license plate. An integrated tail/brake light & signal unit could be sourced, from another model; you'd need to fab your own mounting bracketry. Up front is more difficult. I'd want to avoid mounting anything to the headlight ears...too damage-prone. That basically leaves the handlebars themselves. Rubber/polymer stalks will give you some added damage resistance and are fairly common among aftermarket kits.
No need to replace your existing harness. You can "T" into the horn/brake light circuit, voila! switched power. I'd just run the new add-on signal wiring with the original harness. The exposed ends should fit through the sheathing, electrical tape can handle the rest.
There's not much untapped "reserve" capacity in pre-signal era models. Thus, it'd be a good idea to upsize the battery and source an LED signal kit, with an electronic flasher relay. Just sourcing a sealed, 6v AGM battery will give you roughly double the charge capacity...in the same sized unit. The K0 battery carrier is a lot larger than K1, so it may be possible to fit a larger battery, or possibly a pair of AGM type (wired in parallel), by replacing the thick rubber spacers...if you're looking for some overkill.
As for the stalk assemblies, themselves, I'd replace the tail light assembly. The Dax version bracket retains the K0 light asm and adds signal mounts to either side of the license plate. An integrated tail/brake light & signal unit could be sourced, from another model; you'd need to fab your own mounting bracketry. Up front is more difficult. I'd want to avoid mounting anything to the headlight ears...too damage-prone. That basically leaves the handlebars themselves. Rubber/polymer stalks will give you some added damage resistance and are fairly common among aftermarket kits.
BlackMamba
New Member
I've only done some brief looking around for kits but I found this one...
UNIVERSAL BLINKER INSTALL KIT 12v_OR_6v
I am very new to the word of the CT70, will this kit work? is it all i will need?
UNIVERSAL BLINKER INSTALL KIT 12v_OR_6v
I am very new to the word of the CT70, will this kit work? is it all i will need?
That kit gives you the basics; you'll still have to add a few pieces...as shown. Looks like the fronts use the headlight shell mounts. They'll work, just too damage-prone in that location...imo. You'll also need to to extend the leads from those pigtails, which is simple enough. If you like this setup, go for it. Otherwise, either use the basic pieces and hybridize the signal installation with parts from another source...or keep shopping. This is one of those situations where a cheapie PRC turn signal kit, as you'd find on feebay, could make a lot of sense. If you prefer what you see, you'd probably only need to replace the relay with a 6v unit.
A little basic electrical knowledge, creativity, plus a little web shopping, should get you sorted without much hassle.
A little basic electrical knowledge, creativity, plus a little web shopping, should get you sorted without much hassle.