K2 having difficulty starting Help!

hondamini

New Member
Hi all I just bought a 73' K2 CT70 and have gotten it to start but it doesn't idle well and after starting it 2 times or so and it dying i can't get it started again. I will admit that I have limited mechanical abilities but none the less would like to trouble shoot this issue on my own without the help of a mechanic. If I had to guess I would say that it is an issue with the carb and that it possibly needs to be cleaned. Does this sound like a correct diagnosis? And if so are there any resources available showing me how to go about this? Thanks for all your input!
 

hondaman

Active Member
I would first determine if you have good spark by holding the plug against the engine[with the spark plug wire attached of course] and kick it over. You should be able to see a nice bluish spark. If that checks out then a good carb cleaning is probably in order. Remove the carburetor completely from the engine and take it apart. You will need to unscrew the jets and see if you can see light through their tiny little holes. You will need a can of carb cleaner to completely clean every orifice , nook, and cranny of the carb. Make sure you can see light through the jet holes when you are done. Reassemble carb and try it out.
 

hornetgod

Well-Known Member
The K2's marked the beginning of the steel tanks. They are notorius for rusting inside the tank. I would supect the carburetor jets being blocked up. I would check/clean the tank and carb first. Best of luck to you! Let us know how it goes.
 
I would agree this is the exact same bike that I have and I found when mine was not running all I had to do was replace the fuel line from the fuel filter to the carb, as it was always filled with sediment from the filter and tank, the filter was always hard to get to in my bike and I never bothered replacing it until I pulled the tank last year. Funny thing though, my tank was in excellent condition..... hmmmmmmm......

Steven
 
If it started it has spark, so you are on the right path with the carb cleaning. Take the carb off and soak for two days in carb cleaner. Use a small pices of wire to clean the jets. (use a magnifier glass) to see the small small holes and clean out the passageways with a small bore gun cleaning brush if you have one. And if you do this and it runs great for a while and it happens again, don't be surprised. I had to do the carb cleaning 3 times with my K3 when I bought it 3 years ago, but the third time was the charm.
By the way there is a carb screen on the carb. It is under the small round cover on the side of the carb. You could just take that cover off and check the sediment real quick to see if indeed there is a fuel flow problem.
If you don't already have, get a CHLYMERS manual, there are a very valuable tool when it comes to working on these little Honda's. It would be the best 20.00 bucks you could spend.
There is also a online manual on this site you can download to your PC and that too is a good resource for you too.

Good Luck and keep us posted on your progress! :peace:
 

hondamini

New Member
Thank you all for the insight. It may take me a few days to find some time to work on the bike but when I do I'll keep you posted....
 

snooter

Member
buy a sonic tank to clean the carb and all components (50 bucks at harbor freight)...DO NOT use any wire to clean jets...use FISHING LINE ONLY...purchase new fuel line (10mm fuel line is a pain in the ass i should add)....if your smart purchase clear fuel line (only get the motion pro as that is all i trust) and buy a small filter (any cycle shop will have the filter you need)...carefully read your manual using schematics and initial carb settings from the manual and you will be good to go.....there are several ways guys use here to clean a tank...i use half a bottle of naval jelly and stainless steel screws to clean the tank.....if you do this and change the cap/points..you be good to go
 

kmcrab

120cc
There are actually jet cleaning wire sets available...I have a set that I have had forever but the nice thing is the wires are all different sizes for whatever you need. It's a nice tool to have for these bikes.
 
There are actually jet cleaning wire sets available...I have a set that I have had forever but the nice thing is the wires are all different sizes for whatever you need. It's a nice tool to have for these bikes.

That's what I use too Karen.
I'll save the fishing line for the fish!:6:
 

hondamini

New Member
Hey everyone a little update on my progress: I have took apart the carb and cleaned every part but in the process found that a few gaskets that need replacing. I figured that I probably should clean the tank and replace fuel lines while I am at it so I am just waiting for parts to arrive. I have seen people on here discussing that it is vital to have the correct float height and was wondering if anyone could let me know how I can tell if I put it back together right? I am also wondering what the easiest, safest method to clean the gas tank?? Thanks!
 

hornetgod

Well-Known Member
Float should be set to 25/32"

Use picture below as a reference on how and where to take the measurement.

aep_yimg_com_ca_I_dratv_2089_177521756_.gif
 

hondamini

New Member
Thank you very helpful visual! Another problem I am having getting the needle jet separated from the cable. Do I just apply for with a screwdriver or something to dislodge it from the throttle cable?:39:
 

hornetgod

Well-Known Member
Be certain to screw the throttle cable adjusting sleeve all the way in (under the black boot on the carb cap). Once that's done, remove the cap and compress the slide and spring and the cable should have enough room to come down and out of the silde assembly.
 

hondamini

New Member
I have just discovered that the carb float has something inside it, i'm guessing gas that leaked in some how and now have to wait longer to see if I can get this thing started :102:. Has anyone used the aftermarket float off of dratv.com? Any complaints with it? Also I have discovered that I need a new throttle cable. Can anyone tell me which one I need to get off of dratv? I have a 73" K2 bike. Thanks is advance!

One more thing.... the bike came with a key in the ignition, but doesnt seem to want to come out. Anybody experience this problem and if so have any ideas of how I should go about removing it?
 
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hornetgod

Well-Known Member
It is very common for the floats to develop pin holes.

Here's a link to the correct length black throttle cable ($14.99)
*THROTTLE CABLE BLACK CT70K1/K3 (0013)

Are you sure the key matches the ignition? If they are original, they should both have a HXXXX number stamped on them. Do the numbers match? If you can't figure out the ignition/key problem, I have a K1-K2 ignition with one key that works great. I was getting ready to put it on Ebay but, I'll sell it to you for $25.00 shipped. PM me if you're interested.
 

hondamini

New Member
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction HG, I'm gonna play around with the ignition and see if I can get the key removed. If I can't I'll PM you about your ignition. Does anyone know where I can find a replacement complete seat for my K2?
 

kmcrab

120cc
One more thing.... the bike came with a key in the ignition, but doesnt seem to want to come out. Anybody experience this problem and if so have any ideas of how I should go about removing it?

I have had a key that did not want to come out and I used PB Blaster and WD40..Not sure whch one worked, but the key slid right out after two days of squirting those in the cylinder.

Does your key turn the ignition on?
 

hondamini

New Member
I have had a key that did not want to come out and I used PB Blaster and WD40..Not sure whch one worked, but the key slid right out after two days of squirting those in the cylinder.

Does your key turn the ignition on?

Yes the ignition key does turn and the numbers on both match each other. Where exactly did you spray the WD40? Where the key goes into the ignition?
 
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