MAJOR wiring harness troubles!!!! click here if you are an "expert" (ie Bob lol)

[ontario]

Hi there,

so I took the wire harness out late winter, and been studying for exams recently so never had time to get the bike done by anticipated deadline

I have the harness out on a table: Here is the real problem the dumbass who sold me the bike never used the same colour wiring (well not exactly), but another issue is that I am customizing the harness

1. I only want the "meter light" (the one that illuminates the face of the dashboard), to come one when I hit the light switch on the right handle
2. want the highbeam indicator light to come on when I hit the highbeam switch on the left handle

so now with the wire harness spread out on my table I am trying to simulate the harness (for testing purposes) as if it was in my bike with 12v going through:

which means I connected a 9v power supply dc, and plugged in the relay and cdi and rectifier (trying to simulate)

so I seem to get the meter light bulb to be activated when I hit the switch.

so I connect the orange/blue/grey wires as shown on the diagram (attached), then when I turn the turn sig swith left it cuts out the meter light (meter light goes out)...

How do I get this right? :12::29:

How do I test the flasher relay is working?


ok so I attached the diagram and I colored in the wires b/c it is COMPLETELY different to the stock diagram.

 

[JPardue]

I am not able to read your wiring diagram because it is blurred. Can you post it more clearly, or perhaps email it?

Jon Pardue
Sarasota, Florida

 

[ontario]

Looks like you may be mixing generated AC from the Yellow engine wire with DC from the battery.

Also that 9 Volt battery lacks the Amps to drive much of a load. Perhaps a stronger battery is needed for the test?

See what you think of the AC into DC theory... see attached diagram.

 

[a_smerek]

My advice from the beginning was to buy an entire harness you can just use. That advice still stands true. It is literally an hours work to make a harness from scratch, but you will spend the same amount of time and money just buying one.

With the short riding season here and prime weather, you are really losing out by not having you bike on the road. Just buy the correct harness, connect it up, and go from there

You wont regret it in the long run

If you are in the area, and have your bike, I'll fix it up with you. But you have to have the materials required, and like I said, they will cost as much or more than just buying a harness

Good luck man

 

[69ST]

X2 on a_smerek's advice. Just source a new harness and be done with it, cleanly. Otherwise, if you're stubbornly determined to repair what you have (for whatever personal reasons you might have), then it's time for you to learn how to make your own wire harness. It'll be more work but, it can also help you learn a handy skill...as well as demystify CT70 electrics, which are quite straigthforward compared with most current vehicles.

 

[ontario]

EMERGENCY did I damage any components?


EMERGENCY!!!

Ok so I connect it to my actual 12v bike battery (seeing that this is a 12v flasher):

1. Red to black (in the diagram), black to green earth in the diagram
2. Switched on the night switch, meter light works fine. Switch off night switch and meter light goes oout (as planned). Switch on = meter light goes on.
a. Put turn signal left → signal bulb doesn’t come on but meter light blinks slightly.
b. Then I go disconnect the ground from the blue and orange front signal lights
The red from the positive battery terminal starts smoking!! All the insulation melts off, I panic and cut the red wire from the battery. What the flip did I just do? Did just happened? Man this project gets worse and worse lol....I hope I didn’t break any of the components (thats why I wanted to use just 9v to test it out: you know just to get bulbs to light up and flash etc)

Ok and there is continuity from brown → green/earth.

Oh please take a look at the new wiring diagram:
I updated it to reflect the current state of the wiring:
• Look at the green squiggly lines in the top left: basically one wire from the switch goes to earth, and the brown wire goes tothe green wire (not earth) from the meter bulb
• See the black arrow? Im thinking of just having 12V dc black go feed the brown wire from the night switch then little yellow out the night switch to earth
o Then I will have the meter bulb “acrossâ€￾ these, if that makes sense, so the meter bulb will be a separate circuit fed by 12v dc, a night switch and a meter bulb. Remember I just want to control when the meter bulb goes on (at night :15: )


Also notice that yellow doesn’t go to night switch at all→ but goes straight to headlight. (ie permanent choppy dc from the rectifier to headlight)

more questions:

1. How much volts to get the flasher relay working? (does it have to be 12?)
2. how can I check I never damaged any components?

Sorry for the long novel, but I gotta get my damned bike fixed

 

[ontario]

My advice from the beginning was to buy an entire harness you can just use. That advice still stands true. It is literally an hours work to make a harness from scratch, but you will spend the same amount of time and money just buying one.

With the short riding season here and prime weather, you are really losing out by not having you bike on the road. Just buy the correct harness, connect it up, and go from there

You wont regret it in the long run

If you are in the area, and have your bike, I'll fix it up with you. But you have to have the materials required, and like I said, they will cost as much or more than just buying a harness

Good luck man

Yes you would be right IF I wanted the harness to be like the stock harnesss....but I dont: I want the meter light to be controlled by the night switch...not to merely stay on when the ignition is on.

 

[a_smerek]

The headlight switch should connect the AC power to the headlight, unless it has been changed from the original configuration to use just DC

It seems like you have a very simple diagram and are not able to get it working

My advice, buy a harness and put it in, even if the meter light is always on there is nothing wrong with that

It is actually required for safety standards, my brother got pinched two weeks ago for this and they impounded his bike (he had no speedo light at all on a trailtech vapour computer)

The headlight switch should connect the high voltage AC to the headlight, and you don't want to use that for the meter light ideally

I'd actually just run the 12V to both the headlight and meter light, with a complete working harness it is easy to modify

Your harness is in bad shape, its best to just throw it away

Again, my thoughts

If you damaged any part of the harness I'm sure I have extra parts

I know for sure I have an extra CDI box, and regulator, and flashers are sold at any parts store

 

[ontario]

The headlight switch should connect the AC power to the headlight, unless it has been changed from the original configuration to use just DC

It seems like you have a very simple diagram and are not able to get it working

My advice, buy a harness and put it in, even if the meter light is always on there is nothing wrong with that

It is actually required for safety standards, my brother got pinched two weeks ago for this and they impounded his bike (he had no speedo light at all on a trailtech vapour computer)

The headlight switch should connect the high voltage AC to the headlight, and you don't want to use that for the meter light ideally

I'd actually just run the 12V to both the headlight and meter light, with a complete working harness it is easy to modify

Your harness is in bad shape, its best to just throw it away

Again, my thoughts

If you damaged any part of the harness I'm sure I have extra parts

I know for sure I have an extra CDI box, and regulator, and flashers are sold at any parts store

thanks for offering the help..

the 'night swtich" just controls the meter lamp , in my situation, and yellow from rectifier (or AC) goes permanently to headlight (or maybe I will route it to the Highbeam switch) . it was in 'bAD SHAPEW'.... but I have the conectors.

I first need to know whatr should go where...starting with how to get the indicators to flash right.

which leads me to ask: How do I test the flasher relay?

and how do I test if I damamged any components?

I'm not going to hook this up to the battery. JUst the 9v adaptor.

thoguhts?


and then

 

[b52bombardier1]

Make sure you run a ten amp fuse (no more than 15) in your harness near the device supplying the power while doing all of this experimentation. Without it, you will only be mad at yourself when all the smoke leaks out.

Rick

 

[ontario]

FINDINGS REPORT: signal light system




Procedure: connected orange and blue from the taillight side of the loom to the orange and blue coming out of the turn signal switch. Applied ground to orange, then when hit the switch right (blue), solid bulb comes on when turning left = nothing.. This is with flasher relay pluged in.
+ 9v to black of flasher relay
- To ground.

Switched it around, this time applying ground to blue.....reverse result: turn left and solid comes on, when turning right = nothing.

Replaced power source with 12V bike battery, put in fuse off red as rick suggested.

Result....when ground is connected to orange, and simultaneously turning right→ bulb flashes
Of course exact opposite result when groung is connected to blue, turning left→ bulb flashes.

Does this mean my signal system is ok? I know it means that flasher relay works.

Oh after a bit of flashing: something started smoking again.

then put back the 9v power adaptor I was using as a power source. Now the meter light and high beam lamp werent wokring as they were before.

again I made some more updates to the previous circuit diagram:

1. the night switch has two purposes: to activate the meter light, and to send 12V dc to the rear tailight (night time riding). I dont have a working rear brake light switch.

 

[b52bombardier1]

Please understand, your nine volt battery has very few amps available with which to do useful lighting work. Yes, it has nine volts but real wattage effort requires amps. Watts = volts x amps.

The nine volt battery will not power a headlamp and probably will not make an OEM flasher work. Although it might make the six volt electronic flasher from Dr ATV actuate but he is currently (pun intended) out of stock.

Rick

 

[a_smerek]

I really recommend you throw out the harness and get a new one

Just my thoughts

For the effort spent already, and the priceless weather to ride in (rare here) you would have been better off buying one, and you still are

There is no reason you can't just leave the stock wiring in place, and modify just the meter light, or leave it on all the time

When you see something smoking, you probably can be sure damage has happened

Its not worth the time fooling around just get a harness, plug it in, and be done with it

 

[ontario]

hey I give you a 6 pack of bud light if you help me fix this right...

dude we are two smart dudes....we shold be able to get this sorted

i mean I repaired television sets with diagrams 10x the size of this....dunno what the hell is going on

lmk and thanks for your input

I really recommend you throw out the harness and get a new one

Just my thoughts

For the effort spent already, and the priceless weather to ride in (rare here) you would have been better off buying one, and you still are

There is no reason you can't just leave the stock wiring in place, and modify just the meter light, or leave it on all the time

When you see something smoking, you probably can be sure damage has happened

Its not worth the time fooling around just get a harness, plug it in, and be done with it

 

[b52bombardier1]

But after a while, it's like rearranging the deck chairs on the Titanic. There's just no point to this exercise anymore.

Rick

 

[ontario]

not really

got the meter light and highbeam light to work..

just need to

1. get the taillight hooked up to the night switch
2. make sure there is permanent yellow to the headlight
3. signals work (already know flasher works)
4. once I figure which wire works with what then its just mapping it on the diagram and soldering

not like I have to build an entire new harness......just a matter of figuring what wire works with what

But after a while, it's like rearranging the deck chairs on the Titanic. There's just no point to this exercise anymore.

Rick

 

[a_smerek]

Good luck man, I think your going to need it

 

[Adam-NLV]

hey I give you a 6 pack of bud light if you help me fix this right...

dude we are two smart dudes....we shold be able to get this sorted

i mean I repaired television sets with diagrams 10x the size of this....dunno what the hell is going on

lmk and thanks for your input

How can you post that you've repaired television sets? Really?:21:
See, I use to work at two TV repair shops in N. Cali.
You smoked your harness with your hugely unorthodox and illogical method of troubleshooting and it's good for a laugh but claiming you repair TV's that have a 40K high voltage Volt potential is really insulting to television technicians through out the world!

Break-down and spend the $20 for a NEW HARNESS.:bangin:

 

[a_smerek]

Not to mention in Canada a 6 pack of bud light is worth about the same as a harness, and it saves my time and that is worth much more

 

[ontario]

help me then

have repaired in the past. So help me then show me

what you think is 1. orthodox and 2. logical



2. nothing wrong with this harness.....its the fact that I want to customize it that is the challenge.


3. So Aaron you're not gonna help me then?

How can you post that you've repaired television sets? Really?:21:
See, I use to work at two TV repair shops in N. Cali.
You smoked your harness with your hugely unorthodox and illogical method of troubleshooting and it's good for a laugh but claiming you repair TV's that have a 40K high voltage Volt potential is really insulting to television technicians through out the world!

Break-down and spend the $20 for a NEW HARNESS.:bangin: