New member with a 1969 ct 70

The 208

Active Member
Hi all. Noob here but not new to bikes/atv's. I'm a retired sheet metal guy and I do some part time work at home on bikes and quads, etc. I'm not new to wrenching on bikes. I've been riding and maintaining/ repairing my own for 14 years now. I started doing work in my garage about 5 years before I retired from the trade. A few months ago I fixed a 1966 CT 90 for a guy. He spent over 700 at a local shop, and they fixed a few things, but, the carb still leaked and it didn't run right. So, I took it and cleaned out the tank, replaced the fuel lines and added inline filters, new air filter, put a battery in it and changed the needle valve/ seat. Voila! The thing runs great for about $100. So, a few weeks later the guy brought me a 1969 CT 70 and a 1974 CT 90. They've been sitting in a shed " for decades" the guy said. LOL On the 90 the tank was dry and really clean. So, I cleaned the carb, fresh fuel and a new battery and air filter, runs great. Changed the oil too. So, the 70, the last reg on the plate is 1984! Both bikes are in really good shape, I might add. The 70 had the flywheel missing. The stator, points, cond, all that is there. I got a new used flywheel, and cleaned up the ignition parts, put a new battery in it but I don't get any spark. The horn works with the key off and only if I touch the ignition switch to the bike ( I have it loose to check the wire connections). I get power to the tail/brake light socket. Not sure about the headlight yet. These 6v/ points/condenser systems are a bit foreign to me. I'm not sure where to look next. I did check the plug wire connection. Maybe test the coil next?
Thanks, T2
 

OLD CT

Well-Known Member
Cleaning up the points might not be enough, install new points. The lead coil usually do not go bad and as long as the lead isn't dry cracked will be a waste of $ changing it out. You should find spark with brand new points. The headlight only lights after the engine is running. The ignition switch also needs to be installed and the ring tight to get spark. It's a ground point.
 

The 208

Active Member
OC, I got the new points etc. They showed up on friday just about an hour after I headed out of town. Figures, huh? So, I haven't changed points in probably 30 years. LOL Last time was most likely on one of my old small block chevys. What do I need to be on the lookout for? IIRC an old timer, years ago, told me to use a matchbook to set the gap. .017 I think? What is the little felt pad for? The kit didn't come with instructions and I don't have a manual. I suppose I could find one and download it. Thanks!

Cleaning up the points might not be enough, install new points. The lead coil usually do not go bad and as long as the lead isn't dry cracked will be a waste of $ changing it out. You should find spark with brand new points. The headlight only lights after the engine is running. The ignition switch also needs to be installed and the ring tight to get spark. It's a ground point.
 

The 208

Active Member
So it looks like the condenser that I got is not a direct fit. So do I need to find direct fit replacement or make this one work?
Screenshot_20211018-111615_Gallery.jpg
 

The 208

Active Member
I found this vid. It looks like I have to unsolder the wires and resolder. I may need a new soldering gun. I haven't used mine in probably 20 years. LOL

 

Robert thran

Well-Known Member
If you can’t figure out what the felt pad is for you should not be working on that little gem..sorry for the bad news again!!! That’s REAL reality…
 

The 208

Active Member
What bad news? That you haven't met the PERSON that knows everything, either?
Oh, I figgered it out. Thanks for the 'ol college try tho. LOL

Isn't it Florida that the further north ya drive, the further south ya get???

What's good soldering iron? I have a Weller 7200 that is over 20 years old and it doesn't get hot enough to do the job.

If you can’t figure out what the felt pad is for you should not be working on that little gem..sorry for the bad news again!!! That’s REAL reality…
 

The 208

Active Member
So, I got the new points and condenser in and still got no spark. I set the points at about .012 and a new plug. Question tho. The switch on the L handlebar I'm guessing is a headlight switch? The only other button is the horn. I'm a bit surprised that there isn't a kill switch other than the key.
 

The 208

Active Member
Hi, @kirrbby. LOL
Hey, I got spark to the spark plug! I was at the end of my rope after having done everything that I can think of. I went thru the entire wiring harness even. So, I put it all back, double checked the stator, points, condenser, valves etc. Got spark. The thing won't start tho. I have compression, new spark plug, and a clean carb, tank and fresh gas. Is there a timing issue or a way to set or change the ignition timing? I can hear it pop every so often so, idk, it sounds like other motors I've worked on that had the woodruff key sheared. This key is good tho.
 
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