Newby excited to have my baby back!

Discussion in 'Honda CT70/Z50 Registry' started by RickyRacer, Dec 13, 2018.

  1. RickyRacer

    RickyRacer New Member

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    Hey Guys, Thanks for including me to your group... LH rocks! I'll try to be short and sweet. I purchased a 1991 CT70M leftover from a Honda dealer in July of 1993. It was to be my pit bike as I was road racing motorcycles and they were everywhere. Long story short around 2000 I ran into financial issues and pretty much sold it cheap to a local guy that intended to utilize it with his grand kids. Present Day - I ran into him last week and it was a shock to see how his health had failed. In a nutshell, he was close to blind and had other issues. I had run into him maybe 3 or 4 times throughout the years and he always said..."we have to get together to transfer that title". He called me a couple days ago and asked me to come over - ended up handing me the title, which was still in my name - and gave me the bike back! Needless to say, I am over the moon. I can't get over this stigma that the real-deal owners of 1970's CT's look at these 1991 thru 94 bikes as "not real".... but I intend to have a blast! And I will say this... my opinion. My particular model.... ugliest CT produced! Want to Thank you guys in advance for paving the way with your site and forums. I intend to pick your brains as he did me no favors by just parking it with an empty or nearly empty tank and just letting sit. By the way... mileage is 546!
     

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  3. wanrep

    wanrep Active Member

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    Good story. Welcome to LH.
    I haven't witnessed a lot of prejudice here over certain models.
    We all have our favorite years.
     
  4. kirrbby

    kirrbby Well-Known Member

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    I, absolutely LOVE, 90's CT70's, and I agree, they ARE the ugliest, and the bestest.

    Welcome to lilHonda.
     
  5. RickyRacer

    RickyRacer New Member

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    Thanks for the speedy reply. I guess you hit it on the head saying they are the bestest as I’m sure Honda improved wherever they could. I guess my whining relates to the cosmetics. Decals and wheel color. I just dig the older candy colors.
     
  6. kirrbby

    kirrbby Well-Known Member

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    That is pretty much what most would say about the 90's bikes. They are definitely real. They are definitely a better bike...to run and ride.
    The white wheels, red fenders, and the decal, ARE the ugly. They are also easy to cure, and even purist types don't seem to mind those changes too much.
     
  7. red69

    red69 Well-Known Member

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    I agree with you guys. I have a '94 and it is mechanically heads above the other two K0's I have. I remember seeing the reincarnated '91 CT's when they came out and thought, wow, is that fugly! Big difference in ride.

    Bob
     
  8. cjpayne

    cjpayne Well-Known Member

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    I know what it feels like to get one back. Congrats.
     
  9. RickyRacer

    RickyRacer New Member

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    Hey Guys, I may be posting this in the wrong thread and it's been covered before, but as far as replace or repair. It looks like the tank was empty and with a light I can see rust in the tank... Should I go with one of these pour in cleaners or a Kreem kit - OR - Can I just pull the tank and put a replacement in Also....even though the tires (TrailWings) LQQK ok, I think I better update - Yes? Throttle cable was froze..... New Cable and rebuild the carb? I know - Lots of questions.... Input and wisdom - much appreciated.... RR
     
  10. Roy Chambers

    Roy Chambers Member

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    This might fit, but not sure.http://dratv.com/gastannewste.html
     
  11. racerx

    racerx Administrator
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    Tank sealers can work as-advertised. I've used the KREEM sealer for the past two decades, now, on my daily-ridden bikes...no problems, at all. The white sealer does yellow, a bit. I like the fact that it makes it very easy to see if there's garbage in the gas and how much. Be forewarned, this sealer doesn't just lack a sense of humor, it's downright temperamental. If the surface prep is less than 100%, it'll peel like Birch bark. Removal is a nightmare. POR-15 tank sealer is quite forgiving but, it's metallic silver. Either way, the entire inside surface must be completely free of rust and petroleum residue(s). That means: chemical degreasing (MEK or acetone), chemical rust removal (phosphoric acid, typically), rinsing/drying, followed by immediate MEK flush, application of the sealer. The KREEM kit includes all the chemicals needed, don't recall if the POR-15 kit still does.

    The big stumbling block, for most, is chemical rust removal. There's a lot of disagreement over the "best" solution. Some say Evaporust, others white vinegar (acetic acid). IMO, phosphoric acid should be used, if only as a final stage; it leaves a light phosphate coating that'll give you more working time, before flash rust (the killer of many a sealing job) can form. Plan on a 2-3 day soak period, with frequent agitation (a handful of nuts & bolts, or gravel will improve scouring action), minimum. Some of the worst tanks I've de-rusted have taken as long as 2-3 weeks. Plan the sealer application for a low-humidity day and use hot water to rinse out the phosphoric acid. The sealer usually takes 30-60 minutes to apply, which simply means rolling the tank to distribute the sealer evenly, until enough of it has begun to set-up into a film that won't migrate, once the tank is set down.

    Vintage tires are good for display purposes only. Rubber doesn't improve with age, it dry rots.

    Plan on replacing the throttle cable, cleaning & lubing the internal twist grip throttle assembly and rebuilding the carb. Old throttle cables are usually too arthritic. The factory throttle assembly, a.k.a. "CT70 cruise control" needs to be completely free-moving to work properly. A stronger return spring also helps.

    As long as the throttle slide (inside the carb) is moving freely and the float bowl doesn't look like a scale model of the Great barrier reef, it should be rebuildable. A stuck slide or/and deeply pitted/heavily oxidized float bowl oftentimes mean that the carb is toast.
     

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