Newby w 79 bumblebee

Discussion in 'Honda CT70/Z50 Registry' started by Ozpall, May 23, 2018.

  1. Ozpall

    Ozpall Member

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    Hello, just picked up this beauty on Sunday in Iowa 79 ct70 yellow, looks to be pretty darn clean for a 38 years old. 460 miles. Some surface rust mostly on the shocks. Rims are really clean. And I got the title. Hope to enjoy this for years to come.

    Thanks

    Oscar.
     
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  3. kirrbby

    kirrbby Well-Known Member

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    Looks pretty darn clean to me too. Congrats Oscar!
     
  4. Cleato904

    Cleato904 Active Member

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    Nice score.
     
  5. cjpayne

    cjpayne Well-Known Member

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    Nice find for sure. Not even broke in. At 600miles, you'll want to do the oil spinner service. Not sure why, but the early models, Honda didn't grease the speedo cables(at least the ones I found). You may want to check that when you get some spare time.
     
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  6. Ozpall

    Ozpall Member

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    thanks guys, we played with the carb last night a bit and seems to run better, i hit 35mph as before barely 30. shifting is much smoother too and second gear doesn't bog down at the beginning.
    i will look into the oil spinner, thank you!!!
     
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  7. kirrbby

    kirrbby Well-Known Member

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    If it'll be the youngsters bike, I'd convince him to let you remove the turn signals. The signal stems and the headlight ears...that the signal stems mount to, are valuable, and hard to find replacements if they get damaged. Plus, they're just in the way and unnecessary for how he'll want to ride.
     
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  8. Ozpall

    Ozpall Member

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    Great, I thought about removing the turn signals last when he almost dropped it cause of the weight, he lost his balance, nothing happened but I sure though about the lights.
     
  9. racerx

    racerx Administrator
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    NOT snagging the turn signals, on a CT70 of this era, is no mean feat. You'll knock-into them just walking around the bike, in your garage. The worst aspect, however, is that the stalks & headlight ears are billet unobtainium. And, the HL ears have the double distinction of being near-impossible to repair, if damaged. There is an upside to all of this...you're at the "ounce of prevention" stage.

    FWIW, if you find that you NEED working turn signals, there are lots of good...removable/reversible...aftermarket options.

    BTW, that looks like a really nice original bike, congrats on your score. Your top speed numbers are kinda weak, but...they may improve with mileage and you've not indicated how long you were able to run wide-open, over flat pavement. There is a chance that the engines top end has rusted, to some extent. That could mean cylinder walls or a valve. Absolute worst case, an overbore and a valve job, on one side (intake, or exhaust) would be the most it could possibly need, with this low mileage. The good news is that it's running too well to suspect the worst and, if it isn't smoking, the cylinder is probably fine. At this early stage of your adventure, I'd put the odds of NOT having to go inside the engine are heavily in your favor. IMHO, it's more likely going to take a little carb work, possibly a new air filter element, point gapping and maybe a new drive chain...plus some miles...to get the bike back to full potential. That means low-to-mid 40s on the flat. Usable speed range should be up to ~35mph, above that acceleration can be timed with a calendar.:whistle:
     
  10. Ozpall

    Ozpall Member

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    That was a good read, thanks for the info.
    So yeah I run it up to 35 on flat street in front of my house, I think it's carb tuning, bike is not smoking.
    Funny you mentioned, I Bumped the turn signals like 3 times in the garage.
    As of right now I don't need the turn signals but if I get it running properly I do want to get plates, insurance and get it on the road. I will save all the stock parts and get some aftermarket ones online.
    Thanks again.
     
  11. AtLarge

    AtLarge Member

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    Beautimous. :)
     
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  12. racerx

    racerx Administrator
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    My stock K1 has seen 42mph, on the flat...must've taken 1/8 mile to reach that, at least.

    As for turn signals, rubber/polymer stalks and plastic signal bodies are sacrificial. Not the optimal approach, but easy. Personally, I'd prefer relocating the fronts to the handlebars (clamp-ons) and the rears to the license plate, or bracket. A simple bracket can be fabbed, to slip between the plate & TL mounting plate, from soft aluminum. Unfortunately, 6V electrics are receding into history; otherwise, there are all kinds of LED options out there...all of them require 12vDC.
     
  13. red69

    red69 Well-Known Member

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  14. OLD CT

    OLD CT Well-Known Member

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    That style throws off a very localized beam through the lens red69. It will not light up the entire taillight lens properly, like the standard filament bulb does.
     
  15. racerx

    racerx Administrator
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    These would be better...if they'll fit and you have 12vDC power

    FYI, I ran an 1157 LED array, in a K0-style tail light. It was a lot bigger than the one you linked..roughly the cross-section of a half-dollar. I've since gone to an 88 LED panel, along with a 24W LED headlight. I've got 70W+ of full-wave, DC power, in 12v flavor. Be advised, the electrical mods were neither easy, nor cheap. Most would experience chest pains from the price of the components, alone.
     
    #14 racerx, May 24, 2018
    Last edited: May 24, 2018
  16. Ozpall

    Ozpall Member

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    So this happened just now ;)
     

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  17. allenp42

    allenp42 Well-Known Member

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    That is a nice and clean 79! Probably one of cleanest (and least abused) one I've seen. Good move on removing the turn signals. Your fork ears look straight from here, which is rare. I removed mine as well and followed the advise of racerx in post #11.
     
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  18. Ozpall

    Ozpall Member

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    I like the fact that even the plate is original, was plated for 2 years only!!
     

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  19. cjpayne

    cjpayne Well-Known Member

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    Check to see what the points are set at. .016 is the best. Has an effect on top speed. Just changing the old points to new OEM may make a difference too. I had one with the original points that still worked, but changing them made a difference right off the batt.
    Change the airfilter element. It may be crusty because of age and cause problems.
    Oil the chain. It makes a difference on the speed of these stockers.
    Convert to a sealed battery, you'll be glad you did in the long run.
    If possible, do not run ethanol in this bike. It will eat the lines and seals.
    Run only MC wet clutch oil like the Valvoline stuff or Honda GN4, or similar.

    When you get some time, go ahead and take the wheels apart. I bet that yours are still in good shape on the inside. The rims on these are excellent one way water valves. Soon is a great time to remove the rust and use some sealer between the rim halves.

    Don't know if you know this, as I didn't know at first, but to check the oil level, the bike needs to be full level upright to check it. After wiping the dipstick, place the dipstick flat into the hole without screwing it in.
     
    #18 cjpayne, May 26, 2018
    Last edited: May 26, 2018
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  20. Ozpall

    Ozpall Member

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    thank you very much!
     
  21. cjpayne

    cjpayne Well-Known Member

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    Hey, no problem.
    BTW, I think the manuals say 12/14psi on the tires. IMO, this is too low and may cause wheel spin in the rear tire, ripping your tube stem from the tube. I had always set mine to 25 front/ 30 rear. Never had a problem doing that. It will also help top end speed.
    Here in Oklahoma, I've seen a 30deg cooler temp change overnight and it lowered the psi over 10psi.
     

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