Oil pump 69 z50 k1

Marcus

Marcus

Member
After a total engine rebuild..I am worried the oil pump shaft didnt connect with the oil pump I haven't ran the bike yet..is this something that kinda just falls into place Should I worry about it?..I did not open the cover on the pump.. I was told since the cam sprocket is in good shape I shouldn't worry about the pump being bad is this something y'all would agree with?
 
JHminitrails

JHminitrails

Well-Known Member
First, you can easily remove your stator plate and check your oil pump drive gear engagement. Loosen the chain off and see if you can spin the gear and hear the oil pump rotors turning. Might be worth a final check before proceeding.
Whenever I rebuild any engine whether it be a small 50/70 honda or 300hp rotax seadoo engine, I always remove the spark plugs after filling the engine with oil, then crank them over until you see oil start flowing up to the camshafts and valvetrain. This is easily done on a z50 engine by using a drill to spin the flywheel counterclockwise. You can remove the lower RH cylinder head nut and copper washer while doing this and once you see oil flowing out around the stud, then you know the pump is working. Reinstall the nut and washer and then you can spin in some more to really get the oil into the cam and rockers.
 
Marcus

Marcus

Member
JHminitrails said:
First, you can easily remove your stator plate and check your oil pump drive gear engagement. Loosen the chain off and see if you can spin the gear and hear the oil pump rotors turning. Might be worth a final check before proceeding.
Whenever I rebuild any engine whether it be a small 50/70 honda or 300hp rotax seadoo engine, I always remove the spark plugs after filling the engine with oil, then crank them over until you see oil start flowing up to the camshafts and valvetrain. This is easily done on a z50 engine by using a drill to spin the flywheel counterclockwise. You can remove the lower RH cylinder head nut and copper washer while doing this and once you see oil flowing out around the stud, then you know the pump is working. Reinstall the nut and washer and then you can spin in some more to really get the oil into the cam and rockers.
Click to expand...
How do I avoid having to drain the oil just lay it on its side?
 
JHminitrails

JHminitrails

Well-Known Member
Yes you could lay the bike down on the RH side, or at least lay it over far enough by resting the handlebar on some form of a support, like a bike stand or low table. Remember to turn your fuel valve off and drain your float bowl first, if not the carb will leak fuel out the overflow.
 
Marcus

Marcus

Member
JHminitrails said:
Yes you could lay the bike down on the RH side, or at least lay it over far enough by resting the handlebar on some form of a support, like a bike stand or low table. Remember to turn your fuel valve off and drain your float bowl first, if not the carb will leak fuel out the overflow.
Click to expand...
I'm confused on the spinning it over with a drill part..wouldn't that loosen the bolt to the magneto?
 
JHminitrails

JHminitrails

Well-Known Member
With the spark plug removed, the engine won't have much resistance turning over, much less than the force or torque required to loosen the nut. Don't use an impact driver or impact gun, use a drill with a socket drive adapter to hold your 17mm socket. If you feel better, you can simply retorque the flywheel nut when you are done.
 
OLD CT

OLD CT

Well-Known Member
The quickest and easiest and best way to check the oil flow is remove the lower tappet cover wipe it clean and re install it... Remove the plug and lightly kick the engine over ten times. If the lower cover has oil in it, the pump is working...:LOL: I don't like messing with torqued head nuts, if I do not have to.
 
D

Deoodles

Well-Known Member
He is talking about the large round hex head valve cover in front of the exhaust outlet on the bottom of the head. Clean it and put it on hand right. Then... remove the spark plug and kick it over 10 times.. then remove the hex head valve cover and see if it has oil in it
 
Gary

Gary

Well-Known Member
Probably not- it may be bound up,might have to loosen the screws holding the pump to the case half. But you have nothing to loose by trying to spin it and seeing if it pops in.
 
kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
IDK...I think the oil pump shaft has to be engaged with the pump.

Try removing that tappet plug, put a catch pan under it, and keep kicking the engine over until oil starts running.

Did you put any gasket sealer...anywhere, when you put the engine back together??

If you pull the stator plate...there is oil in there, so you'll need to drain the oil first. But if you didn't have the stator plate out during your rebuild, and didn't check replace the timing chain and parts, you probably need to do that anyway.
Even if you're getting oil out the tappet plug hole...the timing chain, oil pump drive gear...ALL of that needs to be checked.
 
Marcus

Marcus

Member
Kirrbby is it safe to keep kicking it over with no oil being pumped?..I had everything apart and rebuilt the whole motor..this is very aggravating that I have to pull it back apart
 
kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
Should be very safe as long as you oiled up the piston/cylinder at assembly time. Or you can squirt a bit of oil into the spark plug hole...won't hurt a thing.

Did you use any sealant or other goop when you installed the cylinder or head...on the gaskets??
 
Marcus

Marcus

Member
Ok..I used sealant on the base gasket and case gaskets but non on the head and head gasket. So you seem to think it just hasn't had time to reach the cam and rockers? I swear when I put it together I heard the oil pump turning.
 
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