Preserving VIN tag

always5s

New Member
Just wondering if there's any ideas out there on keeping the frame tag intact while sandblasting and painting?
 

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
Many folks have damaged or destroyed them by trying to leave them on for blasting. I'd definitely remove it. If not, cover it well and do NOT blast within a foot of it. Then hand sand around it.
 

Enginedoctor

Well-Known Member
+1 on kirrbbys advice. Remove it, which isn't the easiest, or pay the price later of poor prep work. Get those rivets out and maybe a piano wire or dental floss to separate the adhesive.
 
Here in the WHITE MOUNTAINS of blessed ARIZONA, I'm beginning to believe that one can go ahead and BLAST THAT STINKIN' VIN TAG AT CLOSE RANGE WITH A G****M 12-GAUGE (double-aught-freakin'-buck), or even a MUTHAHF#%G ELEPHANT RIFLE (within city limits), and no IGNORANT YET STOOOO-PID G****M BUREAUCRATIC IDIOT will EVER---I repeat, EVER---know the DIFFERENCE, 10-4??? :7:

DAMN, SOME FOOLS ARE TOTALLY CLUELESS, LOL... :13:
 

Jester

New Member
I know this is an old post, but, just in case someone else comes across this....
When you take the forks off just reach inside with a piece of pipe and push the rivets out. They are kinda like a rifle barrel twist that is also tappered and it should just pop out once you get it moving. Clean them up and put them back when your done.
 

racerx

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
I know this is an old post, but, just in case someone else comes across this....
When you take the forks off just reach inside with a piece of pipe and push the rivets out. They are kinda like a rifle barrel twist that is also tappered and it should just pop out once you get it moving. Clean them up and put them back when your done.

Not possible on a CT70 frame, due to the double-wall construction.

The drive screws are very difficult to remove. But "difficult" is not "impossible". For most, the best method is centerpunching then drilling the heads. New, factory-bagged, drive screws are readily available. I've had limited success R&R-ing the originals but, doing this and leaving the VIN scar-free rates about 11 on a scale of 1-10.
 

racerx

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
This is a task that will more test one's patience than anything else, painstaking...possibly a bit frustrating...but not exhausting.
 

cjpayne

Well-Known Member
Is that your nice way of saying it's kinda a pain in the ass but worth it. :D
Yes, it is.lol
I read here sometime back, someone used fishing string to run under the tag to seperate it from the frame. Whatever glue they used is good stuff.
 

racerx

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Is that your nice way of saying it's kinda a pain in the ass but worth it. :D
Yes, you're more than welcome to interpret it that way. That said, my approach is more objective...focused on whatever it takes to realize a desired result. Not everyone is going to share that same perspective.

Just FYI...the drive screws only serve to positively locate the VIN tag; it's the adhesive that holds it FIRMLY in place. And the tag is high-quality silkscreening, on thick aluminum foil. Heat & fishing line could be very helpful in removing the tag, once those drive screws are out. Prepping the tag, following removal, just takes patience, as you roll the old (now softened) adhesive off using your thumb, taking care so as not to deform the soft tag. Removing the drive screws, without scarring the tag, or enlarging the frame holes, is far and away easier done by centerpunching and drilling the heads off...0.0625" drill works well; the heads will break-off, clinging to the drill. The remains can then be pushed out, using a thin pick.

As with anything else, the end results don't care how anyone feels about what it took to get there. Yes, some tasks are painstaking and that won't be everyone's cup of triple-espresso. There are always some processes involved with restoration that must be farmed-out, or are better farmed-out. When it comes to R&R-ing a VIN tag, for a professional-quality paint job, it definitely IS worth the effort...the difference between done right and everything else is very obvious. FWIW, we're talking about an hour's worth of work and less than $5 worth of materials/parts (new drive screws, from Honda, are like $2 a pop) not much of a hurdle, imho.
 
FWIW, we're talking about an hour's worth of work and less than $5 worth of materials/parts (new drive screws, from Honda, are like $2 a pop) not much of a hurdle, imho.

Racerx, Any chance you have the part number of the drive screws from Honda? I sourced some through the local fastenal store, but they are slightly larger than OE drive screws. Thanks.
 

Deoodles

Well-Known Member
Lol yup. And no. $9 shipping I won’t do it on principal. Maybe one day if I buy something else from them. They have good stuff and I have used them before just never saw these pins so thank you. It solves a problem for me
 

red69

Well-Known Member
I know what you mean about shipping. I have three CT70's and all of them were missing one muffler guard screw. The shipping was more than the screws.
 
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