Preserving VIN tag

Discussion in 'Concours Section' started by always5s, Apr 27, 2017.

  1. always5s

    always5s New Member

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    Just wondering if there's any ideas out there on keeping the frame tag intact while sandblasting and painting?
     
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  3. kirrbby

    kirrbby Well-Known Member

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    Many folks have damaged or destroyed them by trying to leave them on for blasting. I'd definitely remove it. If not, cover it well and do NOT blast within a foot of it. Then hand sand around it.
     
  4. Enginedoctor

    Enginedoctor Well-Known Member

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    +1 on kirrbbys advice. Remove it, which isn't the easiest, or pay the price later of poor prep work. Get those rivets out and maybe a piano wire or dental floss to separate the adhesive.
     
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  5. Coastal Redneck

    Coastal Redneck Well-Known Member

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    Here in the WHITE MOUNTAINS of blessed ARIZONA, I'm beginning to believe that one can go ahead and BLAST THAT STINKIN' VIN TAG AT CLOSE RANGE WITH A G****M 12-GAUGE (double-aught-freakin'-buck), or even a MUTHAHF#%G ELEPHANT RIFLE (within city limits), and no IGNORANT YET STOOOO-PID G****M BUREAUCRATIC IDIOT will EVER---I repeat, EVER---know the DIFFERENCE, 10-4??? :7:

    DAMN, SOME FOOLS ARE TOTALLY CLUELESS, LOL... :13:
     
  6. Jester

    Jester New Member

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    I know this is an old post, but, just in case someone else comes across this....
    When you take the forks off just reach inside with a piece of pipe and push the rivets out. They are kinda like a rifle barrel twist that is also tappered and it should just pop out once you get it moving. Clean them up and put them back when your done.
     
  7. racerx

    racerx Administrator
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    Not possible on a CT70 frame, due to the double-wall construction.

    The drive screws are very difficult to remove. But "difficult" is not "impossible". For most, the best method is centerpunching then drilling the heads. New, factory-bagged, drive screws are readily available. I've had limited success R&R-ing the originals but, doing this and leaving the VIN scar-free rates about 11 on a scale of 1-10.
     
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  8. Jester

    Jester New Member

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    I guess I figured it was as simple as the Z's. My mistake. Thank you for clueing me in.
     
  9. racerx

    racerx Administrator
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    This is a task that will more test one's patience than anything else, painstaking...possibly a bit frustrating...but not exhausting.
     
  10. Jester

    Jester New Member

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    Is that your nice way of saying it's kinda a pain in the ass but worth it. :D
     
  11. cjpayne

    cjpayne Well-Known Member

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    Yes, it is.lol
    I read here sometime back, someone used fishing string to run under the tag to seperate it from the frame. Whatever glue they used is good stuff.
     
  12. racerx

    racerx Administrator
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    Yes, you're more than welcome to interpret it that way. That said, my approach is more objective...focused on whatever it takes to realize a desired result. Not everyone is going to share that same perspective.

    Just FYI...the drive screws only serve to positively locate the VIN tag; it's the adhesive that holds it FIRMLY in place. And the tag is high-quality silkscreening, on thick aluminum foil. Heat & fishing line could be very helpful in removing the tag, once those drive screws are out. Prepping the tag, following removal, just takes patience, as you roll the old (now softened) adhesive off using your thumb, taking care so as not to deform the soft tag. Removing the drive screws, without scarring the tag, or enlarging the frame holes, is far and away easier done by centerpunching and drilling the heads off...0.0625" drill works well; the heads will break-off, clinging to the drill. The remains can then be pushed out, using a thin pick.

    As with anything else, the end results don't care how anyone feels about what it took to get there. Yes, some tasks are painstaking and that won't be everyone's cup of triple-espresso. There are always some processes involved with restoration that must be farmed-out, or are better farmed-out. When it comes to R&R-ing a VIN tag, for a professional-quality paint job, it definitely IS worth the effort...the difference between done right and everything else is very obvious. FWIW, we're talking about an hour's worth of work and less than $5 worth of materials/parts (new drive screws, from Honda, are like $2 a pop) not much of a hurdle, imho.
     

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